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brake bleeding

 
 
Yeebok
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      11-20-2011, 11:05 PM
OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.

Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.

I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
hoping gravity would help.

I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.

I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
got air in half the rear hoses.

I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
them, and want to avoid burring them out.

Any tips or advice ?
--
Y.
 
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atec77
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      11-20-2011, 11:29 PM
On 21/11/2011 10:05 AM, Yeebok wrote:
> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>
> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>
> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
> hoping gravity would help.
>
> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>
> I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
> manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
> got air in half the rear hoses.
>
> I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
> them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>
> Any tips or advice ?

slip some tube over the bleeder once having established it's possible to
open it , add a little clean fluid to a jar and drop the end below the
bleeder into the jar and pump the peddle several times ending under load
, crack the bleeder and release a little fluid . Close bleeder and
release peddle , wait a minute then repeat until the fluid runs clear ,
and keep topping the master .
Find a tight ring spanner for the other bleeder and make sure it fits
well , tap to release with a fibre hammer in the right direction and
bleed , by submersing the end you ensure only fluid gets drawn back if
you err . I assume a couple of things , the master cylinder is higher
than the brake and bleeder and you have a clue , good luck

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atec77
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      11-20-2011, 11:29 PM
On 21/11/2011 10:05 AM, Yeebok wrote:
> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>
> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>
> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
> hoping gravity would help.
>
> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>
> I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
> manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
> got air in half the rear hoses.
>
> I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
> them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>
> Any tips or advice ?

Oh and if really wont bleed there is another way which I am happy to
explain , it works on Bmw's quite well

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Yeebok
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      11-20-2011, 11:33 PM
On 21/11/2011 11:29 AM, atec77 wrote:
> On 21/11/2011 10:05 AM, Yeebok wrote:
>> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz

I assume a couple of things , the master cylinder is higher
> than the brake and bleeder and you have a clue , good luck
>


That latter part seems to be the problem..

--
Y.
 
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GWD
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      11-20-2011, 11:42 PM
On Mon, 21 Nov 2011 11:05:41 +1100, Yeebok wrote:

>OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
>I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>
>Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>
>I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
>close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
>out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
>overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
>hoping gravity would help.
>
>I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
>days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
>off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
>to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>
>I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
>manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
>got air in half the rear hoses.
>
>I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
>them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>
>Any tips or advice ?


Get on the phone and find someone who knows about this stuff, and pay
that person to come and show how it's done. Brakes are too important
for blind experimentation. Much better to learn from someone who is
there in person.

--
GWD
 
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atec77
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      11-20-2011, 11:54 PM
On 21/11/2011 10:33 AM, Yeebok wrote:
> On 21/11/2011 11:29 AM, atec77 wrote:
>> On 21/11/2011 10:05 AM, Yeebok wrote:
>>> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz

> I assume a couple of things , the master cylinder is higher
>> than the brake and bleeder and you have a clue , good luck
>>

>
> That latter part seems to be the problem..
>

Oh , ok email your cell number and I will explain how to use an oil can
, will take 2 minutes to fix them

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will_456
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      11-21-2011, 12:19 AM
On 21/11/2011 10:42 AM, GWD wrote:
> On Mon, 21 Nov 2011 11:05:41 +1100, Yeebok wrote:
>
>> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
>> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>>
>> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>>
>> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
>> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
>> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
>> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
>> hoping gravity would help.
>>
>> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
>> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
>> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
>> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>>
>> I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
>> manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
>> got air in half the rear hoses.
>>
>> I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
>> them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>>
>> Any tips or advice ?

>

It doesn't take too many pumps to empty the resovoir and start putting
air in your system. You need to get the cap off and top it up first.

If the end of the tube is submerged in fluid are you getting bubbles in
the bottle when you pull the lever in?

Should be. If not nothings coming down the line.

If it hasn't been done for a long time it's not unusual to stuff it when
you push the pedal down all the way forcing the piston into corrosion
and **** that tears the seals.

 
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Yeebok
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      11-21-2011, 12:30 AM
On 21/11/2011 12:19 PM, will_456 wrote:
> On 21/11/2011 10:42 AM, GWD wrote:
>> On Mon, 21 Nov 2011 11:05:41 +1100, Yeebok wrote:
>>
>>> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
>>> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the
>>> bleeder.
>>>
>>> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>>>
>>> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
>>> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
>>> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
>>> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
>>> hoping gravity would help.
>>>
>>> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
>>> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
>>> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
>>> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>>>
>>> I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
>>> manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
>>> got air in half the rear hoses.
>>>
>>> I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
>>> them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>>>
>>> Any tips or advice ?

>>

> It doesn't take too many pumps to empty the resovoir and start putting
> air in your system. You need to get the cap off and top it up first.
>
> If the end of the tube is submerged in fluid are you getting bubbles in
> the bottle when you pull the lever in?
>
> Should be. If not nothings coming down the line.
>
> If it hasn't been done for a long time it's not unusual to stuff it when
> you push the pedal down all the way forcing the piston into corrosion
> and **** that tears the seals.
>

OK, where the lever pushes the rubber seal into the master cylinder
(rear), there is occasionally a pop type noise - the rubber seems to be
pushing in OK otherwise though, but it seems like it's not always
pushing completely (as if it's not coping with the back pressure).

Laying under the bike and watching, there are no leaks, but the rubber
seal does not always pop out.

That said, cap off and so on, I am not getting any reaction from the
rear lines.

On the front if I open the bleeder it sucks fluid in from the cup/tube,
'til I press the lever whereupon it pushes out whatever it's sucked in..
but since I can't get the <swear> cap off, I can't top it up and start
fixing the problem.

--
Y.
 
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Nigel Allen
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      11-21-2011, 03:38 AM
On 21/11/11 11:05, Yeebok wrote:
> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>
> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>
> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
> hoping gravity would help.
>
> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>


Presuming the "top reservoir" is handlebar mounted, can you get a strap
wrench around it? If you don't have a strap wrench then you could try to
jerry-rig one from a leather belt and a suitable sized slotted bar of
some description.

Stupid question, have you tried locking a pair of vice grips onto the
cap and giving it a smart "smack" with a Birmingham Screwdriver? A
little percussive maintenance is often enough to loosen the thread seal.

Note: Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey.

HTH

N/

 
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John Tserkezis
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      11-21-2011, 05:17 AM
Yeebok wrote:
> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>
> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>
> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
> hoping gravity would help.
>
> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>
> I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
> manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
> got air in half the rear hoses.
>
> I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
> them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>
> Any tips or advice ?


This is the way I do it.

Firstly, this is a two person job. If you work alone, hire a trained
helper monkey if you need too. Don't care how you do it, you need two
bodies here.

Get the lid off the reservoir somehow. I don't care how, just get it off.

Fill the reservoir to the fill mark. With fresh fluid. Buy fluid if
you have to.

Pick a wheel to do first. Start with the fronts, then the rears.

Use a ring spanner around the bleeder valve.
And only a ring spanner. Again, buy one if you have to.

Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder nipple, and let it dribble into a
jar or something clear like that, so you can see what's coming out.
This is important, you need to see the juice.

Get your friend, wife, neighbour, chimp, or whoever to stomp on the
brakes.

While they're applying pressure, open the bleeder a bit, and watch the
old fluid come out.

Here's the tricky bit, you need to close the bleeder BEFORE their foot
hits the floor.
An important bit I cannot stress enough, when they lift their foot
(after you've closed the bleeder) for fecks sake, make sure they do it
SLOWLY.

This is why I specified a *trained* chimp. I've seen some untrained
zoo graduates who lift off too fast, and squirt fluid from the reservoir
all over your paintwork.

Check the reservoir and top up as required. Now you know why the lids'
off.

Repeat till you get clean fluid coming out the bleeder end.

Once that wheel is done, go onto the next.


Remember to return the Monkey when you're done. The overdue rates are
steep.


You won't believe what fresh fluid and a GOOD set of pads will do. I
had my VB Commodore with high temperature juice and Bendix metal kings.
Had it screaming around Eastern Creek (Bob Jane Great Australian All
Rounders for tyres - yes, I'm a glutton for punishment) and brakes
didn't fade a bit. At all. The tyres turned bright blue, and other
things broke, but the brakes were good.

In contrast, every factory standard vehicle we've been in, loses its
brakes after the first stop. But around the track, we just work around
that by not using the brakes. Throttle to the floor, and opposite lock
into every corner scrubs off enough speed to do the job. This has the
added advantage of having everyone in front of us move out of the way
and wave us buy.
Perhaps because we're faster than them, or perhaps because we're
driving like ****ing lunatics - who's to say?
We prefer functional brakes though. You get faster lap times, longer
lasting tyres, and you don't get that stern talking-to in the pits when
you're done.
--
If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?
 
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