Yeebok wrote:
> OK I replaced my rear pads, and decided to bleed both sets - mainly 'coz
> I stuffed up and let fluid out the rear 'coz I forgot to seal the bleeder.
>
> Anyway as you can expect I've stuffed it up.
>
> I've sat there for about an hour, open the bleeder, press the lever,
> close the bleeder, release the lever. Now I have not seen any fluid come
> out of the rear brake since god knows when. I've even left it sat
> overnight with the bleeder open and the cap off the rear reservoir
> hoping gravity would help.
>
> I can't actually get the top off the front brake reservoir but could 2
> days ago. Of course this only became an issue once I needed to get it
> off to top up the front. I can sit there and flap the front lever around
> to absolutely no avail, I get absolutely no pressure.
>
> I don't have the funds to buy a brake bleeder kit so I am stuck with the
> manual process. I have absolutely no brakes and am of the opinion I've
> got air in half the rear hoses.
>
> I've put WD40 on the screws for the top cylinder but still can't undo
> them, and want to avoid burring them out.
>
> Any tips or advice ?
This is the way I do it.
Firstly, this is a two person job. If you work alone, hire a trained
helper monkey if you need too. Don't care how you do it, you need two
bodies here.
Get the lid off the reservoir somehow. I don't care how, just get it off.
Fill the reservoir to the fill mark. With fresh fluid. Buy fluid if
you have to.
Pick a wheel to do first. Start with the fronts, then the rears.
Use a ring spanner around the bleeder valve.
And only a ring spanner. Again, buy one if you have to.
Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder nipple, and let it dribble into a
jar or something clear like that, so you can see what's coming out.
This is important, you need to see the juice.
Get your friend, wife, neighbour, chimp, or whoever to stomp on the
brakes.
While they're applying pressure, open the bleeder a bit, and watch the
old fluid come out.
Here's the tricky bit, you need to close the bleeder BEFORE their foot
hits the floor.
An important bit I cannot stress enough, when they lift their foot
(after you've closed the bleeder) for fecks sake, make sure they do it
SLOWLY.
This is why I specified a *trained* chimp. I've seen some untrained
zoo graduates who lift off too fast, and squirt fluid from the reservoir
all over your paintwork.
Check the reservoir and top up as required. Now you know why the lids'
off.
Repeat till you get clean fluid coming out the bleeder end.
Once that wheel is done, go onto the next.
Remember to return the Monkey when you're done. The overdue rates are
steep.
You won't believe what fresh fluid and a GOOD set of pads will do. I
had my VB Commodore with high temperature juice and Bendix metal kings.
Had it screaming around Eastern Creek (Bob Jane Great Australian All
Rounders for tyres - yes, I'm a glutton for punishment) and brakes
didn't fade a bit. At all. The tyres turned bright blue, and other
things broke, but the brakes were good.
In contrast, every factory standard vehicle we've been in, loses its
brakes after the first stop. But around the track, we just work around
that by not using the brakes. Throttle to the floor, and opposite lock
into every corner scrubs off enough speed to do the job. This has the
added advantage of having everyone in front of us move out of the way
and wave us buy.
Perhaps because we're faster than them, or perhaps because we're
driving like ****ing lunatics - who's to say?
We prefer functional brakes though. You get faster lap times, longer
lasting tyres, and you don't get that stern talking-to in the pits when
you're done.
--
If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?
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