We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
bikes.

This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.

http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/

Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc.

All the best,
Waz from Garage Night TV

On Mar 29, 6:22*am, Waz <murray...@googlemail.com> wrote:
> We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
> bikes.
>
> This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.
>
> http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/


You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser
drinker serious. ;^)

In communiqué
<6425506d-0c19-47f3-9dd2-(E-Mail Removed)>, Waz
<(E-Mail Removed)> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
>bikes.
>
>This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.
>
>http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/
>
>Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc.
>
>All the best,
>Waz from Garage Night TV

Too late for me !

I managed the relay and control arms on the SO YZ250, though I had to
use a hacksaw, sharp implements and a lump hammer to get the totally
rusted remains of full complement needle roller bearing outer shells
out. Not having a FOAD vice I used a length of threaded rod, nuts,
sockets and natty bearing driver discs to get the new ones in. As these
small castings would go in the oven I used heat and had the new bearings
in the freezer. I reckon it helped. In fact, I re-heated them when it
became obstinate to good effect - differential expansion works.

I had to take the swinging arm to an expert with a press though as the
brute force approach wasn't shifting the old bearings.

Good video though.



--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: (E-Mail Removed) |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

On Mar 29, 2:01*pm, "S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser
> drinker serious. ;^)

I buy whatever's cheapest (within limits). Can you take a budget-
conscious beer drinker seriously?

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 05:22:39 -0700 (PDT), Waz
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
>bikes.


I realise this bloke has a funny foreign accent, but was he even
speaking English?

"roller bearing"

"caged bearing"[1]

wtf?

[1] I thought this might have been a reference to Bern at first, but
realised that although I had know idea what the bloke was saying, it
wasn't in German, I was pretty sure of that.
--
d.

Waz wrote:
> We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
> bikes.
>
> This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.
>
> http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/
>
> Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc.

Another good vid.

A good tip for needle bearings is to have a magnetic tray
underneath when you extract whatever it is - any needles
falling out stick in the tray rather than making a break
for freedom under the workbench.

I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they
were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to
push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them
to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does
help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10
minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine.

I'm surprised about the comment on anodising - you've obviously
not used the right anodisers! Anything can be re-anodised,
but you have to make considerations for anything non-alu -
steel buses or insert will get eaten away during acid
(type 2/3) anodising. What is better? It's personal choice
and availability of decent tradesmen to do a good job. Cost
would be roughly the same as a decent powdercoat. I think I'd
have gone with powder coat on the swingarm too.

--
Antony

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:44:10 -0700 (PDT), antonye <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

snip>

>I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they
>were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to
>push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them
>to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does
>help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10
>minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine.
>
I wouldn't use heat or freezing on a needle roller bearing because
there isn't enough surface area to make it worth the effort.

I agree about having a magnetic tray to catch rollers that want to
take a holiday because the little bastards always make a break for
freedom and you only find that one when you're about to go for a test
ride.

In communiqué <(E-Mail Removed)>, Andy Bonwick
<(E-Mail Removed)> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:44:10 -0700 (PDT), antonye <(E-Mail Removed)>
>wrote:
>
>snip>
>
>>I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they
>>were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to
>>push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them
>>to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does
>>help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10
>>minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine.
>>
>I wouldn't use heat or freezing on a needle roller bearing because
>there isn't enough surface area to make it worth the effort.
>

I decided that the effort was worth it, if only psychologically, and
time wasn't of the essence.

--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: (E-Mail Removed) |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

Andy Bonwick wrote:
>
> I wouldn't use heat or freezing on a needle roller bearing because
> there isn't enough surface area to make it worth the effort.

I must admit that I've not had the experience of needle bearings,
but the sealed bearings that I've used on swingarms, wheels,
ride height adjusters and the like have all benefited from being
left in the freezer for a few days.

Of course, the biggest tip about bearings is to take the old
one to a decent bearing sales/distributor and to get them to
supply a new one based on the bearing number and not your bike
make/model, as it will 99.99% of the time be a ****load cheaper,
and usually of much better quality too.

--
Antony

On Mar 29, 9:44*pm, antonye <anto...@ukrm.net> wrote:
> I'm surprised about the comment on anodising - you've obviously
> not used the right anodisers! Anything can be re-anodised ...

Hi Antony,

In my view, if it's going to be worth re-anodising something you need
to be able to bring the metal back up to the finish of the original
pre-anodising surface.

I think if the anodising has 'gone off' like mine had it's likely you
won't be able to restore the metal well enough to make it worth re-
anodising, and if you tried you'd be disappointed with the results.

In my case it definitely wouldn't have been possible to polish the
swingarm back to something that looked good enough to anodise - hence
powdercoating. Let's see how it stands up to rocks, sticks and ruts!

The clincher, though, was that the arms of the swingarm are box
section extruded or whatever, while what i'd call the 'girdle' at the
front is cast. So you'd get differing results when anodised. I believe
cast alloy doesn't anodise that great??

Best,
Waz