Hello all,

I'm trying to bring a 1986 VF500F Interceptor back to life, should be a
fun project.

Currently I'm trying to put in a new fork seal ... fork is off the
bike, springs & oil out, trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the
fork, and the dampner rod inside is turning as I turn the bolt. The
Clymer manual recommends putting a wood dowel in to stop the dampner
rod from turning and using a air tool to remove the bolt.

I don't have air tools ... I could certain go buy a wood dowel but I
have visions of little wood bits breaking off inside the fork ... any
ideas/suggestions?

I don't really have a shop that I'm buddies with (so no chance of a
free stop in, take the bolt out for me kind of visit) ... so last
resort I guess I'd go somewhere and pay the min. shop fee ... thought
I'd check here first for any help/ideas/suggestions. (And yes I'm
obviously trying to do this on the cheap ... at this point I've got
17hrs of my time on this project (about 1hr on the fork job) and I
don't really want to spend ~$40 to get a bolt taken out!)

I'm in Mt. View and work in San Mateo by the way.

Thanks!
David

<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) oups.com...
> Hello all,
>
> I'm trying to bring a 1986 VF500F Interceptor back to life, should be a
> fun project.
>
> Currently I'm trying to put in a new fork seal ... fork is off the
> bike, springs & oil out, trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the
> fork, and the dampner rod inside is turning as I turn the bolt. The
> Clymer manual recommends putting a wood dowel in to stop the dampner
> rod from turning and using a air tool to remove the bolt.
>
> I don't have air tools ... I could certain go buy a wood dowel but I
> have visions of little wood bits breaking off inside the fork ... any
> ideas/suggestions?
>
> I don't really have a shop that I'm buddies with (so no chance of a
> free stop in, take the bolt out for me kind of visit) ... so last
> resort I guess I'd go somewhere and pay the min. shop fee ... thought
> I'd check here first for any help/ideas/suggestions. (And yes I'm
> obviously trying to do this on the cheap ... at this point I've got
> 17hrs of my time on this project (about 1hr on the fork job) and I
> don't really want to spend ~$40 to get a bolt taken out!)
>
> I'm in Mt. View and work in San Mateo by the way.
>
> Thanks!
> David
>
I've removed that bolt several times on my Hondas, Suzukis and Kawasakis.
The way I do it is to leave the fork assembled, grab the fork in a vice
(with the fork wrapped in a sheet of rubber to protect it) then use a
hammer-driven impact wrench on the bolt with a quick, sharp rap to break the
bolt loose. Same technique putting the bolt back in after clean-up and
reassembly - no problems so far (don't forget a new bolt gasket and
appropriate Loc-Tite if the manual calls for it). Another thing to watch out
for - If there is one, check to make sure you've removed the "C" clamp (or
other retainer) that sits just atop the oil seal, and make sure that when
you put the new seal in you seat it sufficiently for that same retainer to
fit properly back into its groove.

RA

(E-Mail Removed) wrote:

> Currently I'm trying to put in a new fork seal ... fork is off the
> bike, springs & oil out, trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the
> fork, and the dampner rod inside is turning as I turn the bolt. The
> Clymer manual recommends putting a wood dowel in to stop the dampner
> rod from turning and using a air tool to remove the bolt.

Oh, you don't really NEED to take that bolt out just to put fork seals
into the slider if you don't want to replace the piston ring on the
damper rod. That's the only wear part in there unless there's a simple
check valve on the rod too...

Remove the dust seal and the seal retaining clip.

Go down to the 99 Cents Only store and buy yourself a quart of
30-weight oil for a buck.

Don't bother to put the spring back in. Fill the fork leg all the way
up with the 30-weight oil. Put the fork cap back in.

Wrap the top of the slider with an old rag or towel, it's gonna get
messy.

Put a piece of carpet down in a corner somewhere the bottom end of the
slider won't move. This corner should have a place about 30 inches
above it where you can wedge a piece of 2 X 4 about 6 feet long. Look
around, use your imagination, maybe the place I'm talking about is next
to a decorative cinder block wall, f'rinstance...

Put the bottom of the aluminum slider down against the carpet, stick
the 2 X 4 in whatever crack it will fit in above the top of the fork
cap.

Put all your weight on the 2 X 4. When the fork compresses, the seal
WILL come out.

Invert the fork assembly over a bucket to catch the oil that wasn't
caught in the rag...

See? Wasn't that easy?

Brian Wax wrote:
> Ugh!! You can't be serious. Were you on the flight of the Phoenix??

Yes, I am serious. And don't call me "Ugh"...

<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) oups.com...
> Hello all,
>
> I'm trying to bring a 1986 VF500F Interceptor back to life, should be a
> fun project.
>
> Currently I'm trying to put in a new fork seal ... fork is off the
> bike, springs & oil out, trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the
> fork, and the dampner rod inside is turning as I turn the bolt. The
> Clymer manual recommends putting a wood dowel in to stop the dampner
> rod from turning and using a air tool to remove the bolt.
>
> I don't have air tools ... I could certain go buy a wood dowel but I
> have visions of little wood bits breaking off inside the fork ... any
> ideas/suggestions?
>
> I don't really have a shop that I'm buddies with (so no chance of a
> free stop in, take the bolt out for me kind of visit) ... so last
> resort I guess I'd go somewhere and pay the min. shop fee ... thought
> I'd check here first for any help/ideas/suggestions. (And yes I'm
> obviously trying to do this on the cheap ... at this point I've got
> 17hrs of my time on this project (about 1hr on the fork job) and I
> don't really want to spend ~$40 to get a bolt taken out!)
>
> I'm in Mt. View and work in San Mateo by the way.
>
> Thanks!
> David
>

The two replies you already got from RA & Bob are exactly correct.
Any other attempt will probably end with you bunging up the bolt and putting
yourself in bigger trouble.
It's easier to take that bolt out when you just loosen the fork caps, but
leave it all assembled.
I've used a rented electric impact driver and also own one of those
"hit-it-with-a-sledge" drivers and it could be hard to break even then! Now
I have air tools so no real problems.
Whenever I've taken a part into a local independent mechanic and asked them
to help get something un-stuck, they always charge about $10.
Good luck!
Richard

Thanks for all the ideas guys.

Still no luck. I can turn the bolt but it is just spinning the dampner
rod inside. I put the fork back together (hoping the spring pressure
would help) and used a drill with 6mm allen bolt to try to spin the
bolt out ... no luck. Pulled the spring out, got a wood dowel, tried
that route, no luck. In a desperate moment I started thinking of the
quart of oil suggestion :-) but the circlip is very deep in the fork
and my snap ring tool could not reach it (fork tube in the way).

So I'm going to give it a few more tries this weekend and if no luck
off to Aftershocks on Monday to part with some cash. :-(

Thanks,
David

(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> Thanks for all the ideas guys.
>
> Still no luck. I can turn the bolt but it is just spinning the dampner
> rod inside. I put the fork back together (hoping the spring pressure
> would help) and used a drill with 6mm allen bolt to try to spin the
> bolt out ... no luck. Pulled the spring out, got a wood dowel, tried
> that route, no luck. In a desperate moment I started thinking of the
> quart of oil suggestion :-) but the circlip is very deep in the fork
> and my snap ring tool could not reach it (fork tube in the way).
>
> So I'm going to give it a few more tries this weekend and if no luck
> off to Aftershocks on Monday to part with some cash. :-(
>
> Thanks,
> David

I have failed as a mechanic. :-(

Never could get the bolt out ... took it to Aftershocks on Monday ...
went ahead and had them change the seal too ... excellent service,
$35.00 and did it Monday ... makes me rethink the ~2hrs I spent futzing
with this in the garage.

Thanks again for the ideas.
David