The ongoing saga of the Jag bearing [1]

As I posted recently I had it apart and I find a completely dry bearing -
not the slightest whiff of grease! See [2]

To make my description easier I've extracted the exploded diagram from
the parts book:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/docs...suspension.pdf

My problem is the hub (part 29) is slightly damaged and is now slightly
shorter than before so setting the endfloat is a bit tricky.

The largest available shim (part 35, which I have) is 0.151" (3.84mm)
which gives an end float of 12 thou - I need a 0.160" (4.05mm) shim to
get an endfloat of 4 thou (range is 2 to 6 thou). That is, shall we say,
in production.

However, in the interim I need to use the car with the mashed parts
replaced but the original hub (see [2]) and excessive endfloat. So what
are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat of 12
thou rather than 2-6?


[1] Oh dear - Squeaky.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP-XxL90gEg

[2] Dry
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4719246...7623462142046/

--
Simon

sweller wrote:

>
> However, in the interim I need to use the car with the mashed parts
> replaced but the original hub (see [2]) and excessive endfloat. So what
> are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat of 12
> thou rather than 2-6?


You'll just **** it up even further to be honest.

How much is a new hub?

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

Nige wrote:

> > However, in the interim I need to use the car with the mashed parts
> > replaced but the original hub (see [2]) and excessive endfloat. So
> > what are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat
> > of 12 thou rather than 2-6?
>
> You'll just **** it up even further to be honest.
>
> How much is a new hub?

I haven't found anywhere selling one yet - not that I've looked properly
- I've got to check if the hub is the same on an XJ6.

--
Simon

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "sweller"
<(E-Mail Removed)> saying something like:

>However, in the interim I need to use the car with the mashed parts
>replaced but the original hub (see [2]) and excessive endfloat. So what
>are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat of 12
>thou rather than 2-6?

The shims are there to keep the balls and races from having too much of
an off-vertical slouch when cornering. I'd think it would be OK with a
12thou end float, at least for a while. Problem is, each thou of end
float leads to a magnified effect on the races as the tyre/wheel
stresses them. How long it can stand that, I don't know.
As far as I can see, the shim is rotating with the shaft and bearing
inner, so it's a bit awkward. All I can say is assemble it and see what
the wheel rock is (top of wheel, rock it in /out ). If it's more than a
Harley, don't use it. If it's indiscernible from the other side, try it
out. Depending on the car as a whole, you might feel the back end trying
to wander, but probably not.

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, sweller
<(E-Mail Removed)> typed
>
>The largest available shim (part 35, which I have) is 0.151" (3.84mm)
>which gives an end float of 12 thou - I need a 0.160" (4.05mm) shim to
>get an endfloat of 4 thou (range is 2 to 6 thou). That is, shall we say,
>in production.

Sorry, I didn't realise you were using this as a daily driver. I'll do
them tonight.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"

I've always been a man who's open to persuasion

"sweller" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
>
> The ongoing saga of the Jag bearing [1]
>
> As I posted recently I had it apart and I find a completely dry bearing -
> not the slightest whiff of grease! See [2]
>
> To make my description easier I've extracted the exploded diagram from
> the parts book:
> http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/docs...suspension.pdf
>
> My problem is the hub (part 29) is slightly damaged and is now slightly
> shorter than before so setting the endfloat is a bit tricky.
>
> The largest available shim (part 35, which I have) is 0.151" (3.84mm)
> which gives an end float of 12 thou - I need a 0.160" (4.05mm) shim to
> get an endfloat of 4 thou (range is 2 to 6 thou). That is, shall we say,
> in production.
>
> However, in the interim I need to use the car with the mashed parts
> replaced but the original hub (see [2]) and excessive endfloat. So what
> are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat of 12
> thou rather than 2-6?

Couldn't you knock up a temporary shim from brass sheet?


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

> The shims are there to keep the balls and races from having too much of
> an off-vertical slouch when cornering. I'd think it would be OK with a
> 12thou end float, at least for a while. Problem is, each thou of end
> float leads to a magnified effect on the races as the tyre/wheel
> stresses them. How long it can stand that, I don't know.

Cheers for that.

--
Simon

Nige wrote:

> How much is a new hub?

I have managed to get a full hub and bearing housing assembly with good
bearings and the necessary shims for £25.

Who'd have thought the local car breakers would have parts for 45 year
old cars on the shelf...

--
Simon

Beav wrote:

> Couldn't you knock up a temporary shim from brass sheet?

The shims are hardened - I'm not sure brass ones would last.

I've managed to get a full hub assembly cheaply so I'm quite happy.

--
Simon

sweller wrote:
> Beav wrote:
>
>> Couldn't you knock up a temporary shim from brass sheet?
>
> The shims are hardened - I'm not sure brass ones would last.
>
> I've managed to get a full hub assembly cheaply so I'm quite happy.

You aint fit it yet

--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue