As told, I picked up a 98 Majesty 250 superscoot last weekend for
under 500 quid, bargain I thought.
The fork seals were badly ****ed so I ordered new seals online and
started pulling it apart. Every damn piece of front end plastic has
to come off, the umpteen fastners submitted eventually.
OK, so open up the forks and change the seals - how hard can it be.

Impossible is the answer because you need a special Yamaha tool to
hold the inner plunger to undo the bottom bolt. So off the forks go
to the local dealer, another 110 quid and 2 days later I get to
start reassembly and blast the online seller for sending the wrong
seals.

Finally got it back together today, only 3 panel screws left over,
no more pannel rattles, engine sounds good and it rides nicely, plenty
of performance for scoot duties.

In it goes for an MOT next week. What can possibly go wrong ?.

--
03 GS500K2
76 Honda 400/4 project
78 Honda 400/4 in black
06 Sukida SK50QT (Slanty eyed shopping trolley)

<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> So off the forks go
> to the local dealer, another 110 quid and 2 days later

Whaaat? £110 just to pull a pair of forks apart (and you supplied the
forks ready for the pulling apart) and fit new seals? You've been ripped
off.

30 minutes to separate each leg, fit new seal, reassemble and add new
fork oil. That's an hour, Add 50% for luck. That's an hour and a half's
labour.



--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400Fx2 Triumph Street Triple
Kawasaki GT550x2 Suzuki TS250ERx2 GN250 Damn, up to ten bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

The Older Gentleman <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
> > So off the forks go
> > to the local dealer, another 110 quid and 2 days later
>
> Whaaat? £110 just to pull a pair of forks apart (and you supplied the
> forks ready for the pulling apart) and fit new seals? You've been ripped
> off.
>
> 30 minutes to separate each leg, fit new seal, reassemble and add new
> fork oil. That's an hour, Add 50% for luck. That's an hour and a half's
> labour.

Yamaha main dealer rate. 1 1/2 hours at £60.00 plus parts and oil.
If you think that is bad try the Renault dealer who charges £75 ph to
work on the Master.

Main dealers all take the **** but the special tool is a main dealer
workshop item. Grrrrrr.

--
03 GS500K2
76 Honda 400/4 project
78 Honda 400/4 in black
06 Sukida SK50QT (Slanty eyed shopping trolley)

<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> > 30 minutes to separate each leg, fit new seal, reassemble and add new
> > fork oil. That's an hour, Add 50% for luck. That's an hour and a half's
> > labour.
>
> Yamaha main dealer rate. 1 1/2 hours at £60.00 plus parts and oil.

Oh well. At least I got the time factor right ;-)


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400Fx2 Triumph Street Triple
Kawasaki GT550x2 Suzuki TS250ERx2 GN250 Damn, up to ten bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

On Mon, 6 Sep 2010 00:04:30 +0000 (UTC), (E-Mail Removed) wrote:


>Tried that - the bolt goes into the inner plunger which just rotates
>with the bolt unless you have the special tool to reach down inside
>from the top and grip it. The tool is a long rod with a special
>shape on one end to insert into the top of the inner plunger and
>a T handle on the top to hold it while you rattle out the bottom bolt
>with the other hand.

A sharpened broom handle is equally effective.

In communiqué <(E-Mail Removed)>, Salad Dodger
<(E-Mail Removed)> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>On Mon, 6 Sep 2010 00:04:30 +0000 (UTC), (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>
>
>>Tried that - the bolt goes into the inner plunger which just rotates
>>with the bolt unless you have the special tool to reach down inside
>>from the top and grip it. The tool is a long rod with a special
>>shape on one end to insert into the top of the inner plunger and
>>a T handle on the top to hold it while you rattle out the bottom bolt
>>with the other hand.
>
>A sharpened broom handle is equally effective.

Indeed it can be.

I assumed at first these forks might be UD ones requiring a slide hammer
tool to insert the seals. I've not found anyway of codging up something
to do that job, though I've wondered whether split plastic pipe and zip
ties might just do the trick.

Nordwests are becoming the subject of restoration these days, so not all
'SOBs' have conventional forks.


--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: (E-Mail Removed) |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

In article <i60qad$882$(E-Mail Removed)>, (E-Mail Removed)
says...


> Finally got it back together today, only 3 panel screws left over,
>

Why?

--
jeremy
K1200S

Jeremy <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
> In article <i60qad$882$(E-Mail Removed)>, (E-Mail Removed)
> says...
>
> > Finally got it back together today, only 3 panel screws left over,
>
> Why?

There was a baggie containing 7 panel screws under the seat, so I found
homes for 4 of them. I have not yet removed anything rear of the
footboards so more sins will doubtless be discovered.
it might even stop clattering when everything it nailed down.

--
03 GS500K2
76 Honda 400/4 project
78 Honda 400/4 in black
98 Yamaha YP250 Majesty

Steve Parry wrote:


> I found leaving the forks and springs in place in the yokes gives
> enough pressure on the bottom rod to stop it spinning while removing
> the bottom bolt.

I take the forks out and hold them in the vice by the sliders and get
someone else to compress the forks while I undo the bolts. Never had
one beat me yet.

--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Inter-Continental Hyperbolistic Missile , CBR600F-W racebike
in the making, TS250C, RD400F (somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)