As the Busa's in bits, the job for today was replacing the fork seals
and the brake hoses on the R80. As I need the a bike to get to work, it
was important that I got it all done and dusted today.

All going swimmingly with me mentally drafting my "I love my Boxer"
posting until I tried to take off the RHS fork lower and stripped the
head of the retaining allen bolt. Clearly tightened by some gorilla last
time it was off. Bugger.

So went to take off the forks to give them some TLC with a drill, but I
can't for the life of me find my 41mm ring spanner to release the fork
from the top yoke, and not surprisingly none of the local shops have
that size in stock.

Decided to just remove the other side (the one that's leaking) rather
than do the pair, but of course the forks are held to the brace using
some wierd and wonderful bolt; one that I don't have a socket for.

Bolted the brakes back together and bled them, but the forks are back
together complete with leaky seal on one side and buggered bolt on the
other. I really didn't like putting the bike back together without
fixing it, but it's more important at the moment to have it together :-(

Time to buy a spanner and plan another weekend in the garage :-(
--
Gyp
GSX1300RZ R80RT R65RS
replace .co.uk with .com to reply

Gyp <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> SNIP

> Time to buy a spanner and plan another weekend in the garage :-(

Bad luck. Do you mean the axle clamp or the yoke? I'm assuming the former.

I have a long snap-on spanner for that head nut. It cost a ****ing fortune.
Stupid waste of money *and* I chipped a tank with it. A nice 3/8 crow foot
would be cheaper, neater and fit a torque wrench.

--
Hog

On 11/07/10 23:05, Hog wrote:
> Gyp<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> SNIP
>
>> Time to buy a spanner and plan another weekend in the garage :-(
>
> Bad luck. Do you mean the axle clamp or the yoke? I'm assuming the former.

The bolt that's knackered is the one that goes up inside the bottom of
the fork to hold the damper rod to the fork lower. I've acquired my
father's huge adjustable King Dick to get the fork tops off.

> I have a long snap-on spanner for that head nut. It cost a ****ing fortune.
> Stupid waste of money *and* I chipped a tank with it. A nice 3/8 crow foot
> would be cheaper, neater and fit a torque wrench.

Good reminder to loosen and coppaslip. But not until I've got the Busa
back on the road

--
Gyp
Another PC, another sig

Gyp wrote:
> On 11/07/10 23:05, Hog wrote:
>> Gyp<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>>
>>> SNIP
>>
>>> Time to buy a spanner and plan another weekend in the garage :-(
>>
>> Bad luck. Do you mean the axle clamp or the yoke? I'm assuming the
>> former.
>
> The bolt that's knackered is the one that goes up inside the bottom of
> the fork to hold the damper rod to the fork lower. I've acquired my
> father's huge adjustable King Dick to get the fork tops off.
>
>> I have a long snap-on spanner for that head nut. It cost a ****ing
>> fortune. Stupid waste of money *and* I chipped a tank with it. A
>> nice 3/8 crow foot would be cheaper, neater and fit a torque wrench.
>
> Good reminder to loosen and coppaslip. But not until I've got the Busa
> back on the road

Oh *that* bolt. FFS you ham fisted oik.
It's a No1 candidates for a rattle gun. Removal that is. It doesn't need
much torque on assembly.

It could be tricky to repair, a replacement part might be easier. Or a
little weld metal/drilling/tapping

FWIW I've been known to drill out the head of the allen screw as a matter of
caution

--
Hog

Mark Olson wrote:
> Hog wrote:

>> FWIW I've been known to drill out the head of the allen screw as a
>> matter of caution
>
> It's the best way to go on this particular bolt, now that it's
> mullered.
> The nice bit is that being a hex socket screw the drill bit is
> naturally centered so there's little chance of damage to anything,
> and if you simply drill off the head of the screw the damper rod
> assembly separates out nicely and you can probably unscrew the
> remains with your fingertips once the tension is off.
>
> Removing damper rod bolts was the impetus toward the acquisition of
> my air compressor along with the requisite rattle gun, about 25 years
> ago.

Well yes but I have the impression he stripped the thread in the rod.

--
Hog

On 12/07/10 21:01, Hog wrote:

>> Removing damper rod bolts was the impetus toward the acquisition of
>> my air compressor along with the requisite rattle gun, about 25 years
>> ago.
>
> Well yes but I have the impression he stripped the thread in the rod.
>

No, just ****ed the bolt

--
Gyp
Another PC, another sig

Gyp wrote:
> On 12/07/10 21:01, Hog wrote:
>
>>> Removing damper rod bolts was the impetus toward the acquisition of
>>> my air compressor along with the requisite rattle gun, about 25
>>> years ago.
>>
>> Well yes but I have the impression he stripped the thread in the rod.
>>
>
> No, just ****ed the bolt

Oh the allen screw socket. Yeah well easily sorted, once you get the fork
off!

I usually just drop the forks out together and leave all that fesking
brace/mudguard stuff in place BTW. It's just wheel and callipers off and 4
allen screws in the yokes.

Andy could probably suggest some clever way of spot welding a rod into the
socket so you don't even have to pop the fork top!

--
Hog

Hog wrote:

> Oh the allen screw socket. Yeah well easily sorted, once you get the fork
> off!

Which I couldn't do as I didn't have the 41mm...


> I usually just drop the forks out together and leave all that fesking
> brace/mudguard stuff in place BTW. It's just wheel and callipers off and 4
> allen screws in the yokes.

4 allen screws? Do you have the Ultimate Source/San Jose (or whatever it
is) pimpy top yoke?

> Andy could probably suggest some clever way of spot welding a rod into the
> socket so you don't even have to pop the fork top!

Prolly, but as it's recessed into the fork it might be tricky; I'm going
to settle for the rattle gun or failing that the drill approach



--
Gyp
GSX1300RZ R80RT R65RS
replace .co.uk with .com to reply

Gyp wrote:
> Hog wrote:
>
>> Oh the allen screw socket. Yeah well easily sorted, once you get the
>> fork off!
>
> Which I couldn't do as I didn't have the 41mm...
>
>
>> I usually just drop the forks out together and leave all that fesking
>> brace/mudguard stuff in place BTW. It's just wheel and callipers
>> off and 4 allen screws in the yokes.
>
> 4 allen screws? Do you have the Ultimate Source/San Jose (or whatever
> it is) pimpy top yoke?

<Penny drops>

Of course I do.

>> Andy could probably suggest some clever way of spot welding a rod
>> into the socket so you don't even have to pop the fork top!
>
> Prolly, but as it's recessed into the fork it might be tricky; I'm
> going to settle for the rattle gun or failing that the drill approach

I was thinking of chucking a wodge of current down said rod y'see.
Just drill the head off. 5 minute job.
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
Try not to drill right through the fork bottom

--
Hog