Mark Olson wrote:
> Biker Dude wrote:
>> Might '82 Kawasaki has a sight gauge on the right side to check the
>> oil level in the crankcase. The sight gauge has become a bit opaque
>> over the decades it's now difficult to view the oil level.
>>
>> My question is: how difficult is it to change the sight gauge and
>> would it be worth the trouble?
>>
>> I can see how the right side crankcase cover would have to be removed
>> and that could lead to sheared-off crankcase screws and all sorts of
>> trouble.
>>
>> So tell me please, in your estimation, should I try to change it and
>> accept the risk of complications?
>
> I suspect that even if the sight glass is very dirty or otherwise
> occluded on the inside, that you can still determine if there's oil
> present or not, which is all that is required. Wipe down the outside
> and shine a flashlight at it and if you can see oil moving around you
> don't need to do anything. Consult the owner's manual to see whether you
> need to check the oil while on the centerstand or while on the wheels.
> The wife's EX250 doesn't read correctly on the centerstand, so you need
> a helper to hold it up while you look, or a mirror-onna-stick.
>
> If you do decide to remove the clutch cover for the purpose of cleaning
> the oil sight glass, you will need to purchase an impact driver with a
> Phillips screwdriver tip, to remove the screws. On a bike of that age I
> guarantee at least one of the screws be impossible to remove otherwise.
> This is the sort of driver I'm talking about:
>
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P
>
> There are plenty of cheap Chinese (as is Sears' offering, no doubt)
> versions of these available for as little as $10, and they will work
> just as well as Sears' $25 version:
>
> http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?...emNumber=28667
>
>
> This one from Harbor Freight is a lighter duty version which is even
> cheaper at $6:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93481
>
> but should work fine.
>
> I've had my "Buffalo" brand driver for almost 30 years. It is a basic
> required tool for Japanese motorcycle maintenance, for doing this exact
> job. Steel screws tend to corrode in place with the aluminum engine
> cases, and the impact breaks the corrosion loose while at the same time it
> forces the bit into the screw so it won't cam out and ruin the screw head.
> There really is no more appropriate tool to remove these screws than one
> of these drivers. Oh, and don't be tempted to use the impact driver to
> tighten the screws. Just make sure the screw heads aren't rounded out,
> use a good quality screwdriver that fits (usually it is the #3 Phillips
> size) and press in firmly while tightening by hand. You can easily strip
> the soft aluminum threads if you give the screw too much torque.
>
> Helpful tip: if you find a mushed up Phillips screw head, you can usually
> make it almost as good as new by hammering the head of the screw flat
> while it's held in a vise (seat the bottom of the head against the jaws,
> and VERY lightly close the jaws on the threads so as not to damage them)
> until the crossed slots are nearly closed. Then hammer the correct size
> bit from your impact driver into the screw head to expand the slots,
> the slots will be perfectly formed to match the bit, albeit with the
> head a little mashed looking.
Haven't tried it myself but a guy I knew would point a plumber's propane
torch toward such screws for a minute or so, then point an aerosol spray
at it, I seem to remember the aerosol was nitrogen, maybe that's wrong,
which would quickly cool the surrounding metal. I'm guessing this is
one way to "break corrosion loose", as you put it. I think he was doing
it on a brake caliper fixture which may not have been the same situation
as an aluminum engine case. Is this a good technique in general or is
it risky depending on the metal involved? (eg., aren't many carb bodies
made from a zinc compound, not aluminum?)
(The same guy would try to turn a Phillips screw only once. If that
didn't work first crack, he would immediately get out his impact driver,
and if that didn't work right away he'd then try some kind of thread
loosener chemical or apply heat. His other advice was to discard any
Phillips driver tip that had any gouges and always use the biggest size
that would fit the screw. Whenever I've used an impact driver, it
seemed the most fruitful technique involved a good solid whack, not a
bunch of little taps like I've seen people do, also a good heavy hammer,
at least 32 oz. seems to be easier to hitting hard without hitting one's
hand. This makes me wonder if anybody makes an impact driver with a
hand guard, the kind some big cold chisels come with.)
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