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Paging SIRPip and/or other car fixing foak

 
 
Simon Wilson
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      02-06-2011, 03:59 PM
I've been poking around the new toy today.

I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5422120706/

Someone's tried to encourage it in the downwards direction because the
bolt in the top (that just holds a large washer in place as far as I can
tell) is damaged.

On the other side, there was a hex head in the middle of the bearing
that looked might it be some locating pin or other. I just
ever-so-gently turned it with a spanner and it fell off, couldn't really
call it shearing:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5421522615/

At least this kingpin is seated:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5421506609/

Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind of
retainer for the kingpin? It looks like maybe the nut was just a lock
nut on an allen keyed grub screw - what say the foak - drill out with a
LH srewdriver? Am I right in thinking they have to be driven out from
underneath - any tips/ideas how to do that? I couldn't use a WUN-like
press on it as the whole thing is part of the chassis.

TIA

--
/Simon
 
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zymurgy
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      02-06-2011, 04:09 PM
On Feb 6, 4:59*pm, Simon Wilson <siwil...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> I've been poking around the new toy today.
>
> I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5422120706/
>
> Someone's tried to encourage it in the downwards direction because the
> bolt in the top (that just holds a large washer in place as far as I can
> tell) is damaged.
>
> On the other side, there was a hex head in the middle of the bearing
> that looked might it be some locating pin or other. I just
> ever-so-gently turned it with a spanner and it fell off, couldn't really
> call it shearing


That hex thing is proper ****ed.

> Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
> properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind of
> retainer for the kingpin?


Possibly, can you give a better photo of the side that is working ok.
There's a sheared off grease nipple on the side with the correctly
seated king pin, so that'll need sorting out too.

Where did the hex thing fall off from, as it looks like the stub on
the bottom of the kingpin housing is the retainer, if that's sticking
into the joint, they won't have been able to seat the pin any further.

Strip it down and re-drill and tap everything that's sheared off. You
don't want the king pin working its way out ..

Paul.
 
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Pete Fisher
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      02-06-2011, 04:23 PM
In communiqué <(E-Mail Removed)>, Simon Wilson
<(E-Mail Removed)> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>I've been poking around the new toy today.
>
>I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:
>
>Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
>properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind
>of retainer for the kingpin? It looks like maybe the nut was just a
>lock nut on an allen keyed grub screw - what say the foak - drill out
>with a LH srewdriver? Am I right in thinking they have to be driven out
>from underneath - any tips/ideas how to do that? I couldn't use a
>WUN-like press on it as the whole thing is part of the chassis.
>



Some kind of locking bolt not unlike a cotter pin perhaps like on old
yank trucks as discussed in this?

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf
--
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Simon Wilson
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      02-06-2011, 04:24 PM
On 06/02/2011 17:09, zymurgy wrote:
> On Feb 6, 4:59 pm, Simon Wilson<siwil...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>> I've been poking around the new toy today.
>>
>> I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5422120706/
>>
>> Someone's tried to encourage it in the downwards direction because the
>> bolt in the top (that just holds a large washer in place as far as I can
>> tell) is damaged.
>>
>> On the other side, there was a hex head in the middle of the bearing
>> that looked might it be some locating pin or other. I just
>> ever-so-gently turned it with a spanner and it fell off, couldn't really
>> call it shearing

>
> That hex thing is proper ****ed.
>
>> Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
>> properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind of
>> retainer for the kingpin?

>
> Possibly, can you give a better photo of the side that is working ok.
> There's a sheared off grease nipple on the side with the correctly
> seated king pin, so that'll need sorting out too.


I think what you're looking at is where the where the hex nut came from.
There are grease nipples at the top and bottom.

>
> Where did the hex thing fall off from,


See above.

> as it looks like the stub on
> the bottom of the kingpin housing is the retainer, if that's sticking
> into the joint, they won't have been able to seat the pin any further.
>


You've lost me there.

> Strip it down


Uh huh. I'm trying to avoid my usual style of belting stuff with a
hammer, resulting in big repair bills.

> and re-drill and tap everything that's sheared off. You
> don't want the king pin working its way out ..


Indeed, that could be "interesting".

--
/Simon

 
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Simon Wilson
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      02-06-2011, 04:29 PM
On 06/02/2011 17:23, Pete Fisher wrote:
> In communiqué <(E-Mail Removed)>, Simon Wilson
> <(E-Mail Removed)> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>> I've been poking around the new toy today.
>>
>> I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:
>>
>> Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
>> properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind
>> of retainer for the kingpin? It looks like maybe the nut was just a
>> lock nut on an allen keyed grub screw - what say the foak - drill out
>> with a LH srewdriver? Am I right in thinking they have to be driven
>> out from underneath - any tips/ideas how to do that? I couldn't use a
>> WUN-like press on it as the whole thing is part of the chassis.
>>

>
>
> Some kind of locking bolt not unlike a cotter pin perhaps like on old
> yank trucks as discussed in this?
>
> http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf


Indeed, I found that article too thanks. There's nothing sticking out
the other side though, so I'm still thinking it's a grubscrew with a
locknut.

--
/Simon
 
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zymurgy
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      02-06-2011, 04:48 PM
On Feb 6, 5:24*pm, Simon Wilson <siwil...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> On 06/02/2011 17:09, zymurgy wrote:
> > On Feb 6, 4:59 pm, Simon Wilson wrote:
> >> I've been poking around the new toy today.

>
> >> I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:

>
> I think what you're looking at is where the where the hex nut came from.
> There are grease nipples at the top and bottom.
>
> > as it looks like the stub on
> > the bottom of the kingpin housing is the retainer, if that's sticking
> > into the joint, they won't have been able to seat the pin any further.

>
> You've lost me there.


Ah, I see better now. If the grease nipples are top and bottom,
logically the centre bolt should be the retainer. It depends where the
pivot bearing points are for the steering arm/hub assembly. I'd pop
out the side that's half way out and have a look at the assembly. Once
it's fully uncrewed, hoick it out with a puller or a close fitting
spanner under the flange, it's half way out anyway .. if it won't
come, drill out the centre retaining screw for a better look.

Looks like you'll be investing in some new grease nipples soon enough
in any case.

Paul.

 
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Ace
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      02-06-2011, 09:10 PM
On Sun, 06 Feb 2011 16:59:07 +0000, Simon Wilson
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>I've been poking around the new toy today.
>
>I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:


Move to a less pikey vehicle.

 
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SIRPip
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      02-07-2011, 08:06 AM
Simon Wilson wrote:

> I've been poking around the new toy today.


That's never a good thing to do, 'cos you always spot stuff that you
wish you'd spotted /before/ you bought the POS.
>
> I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5422120706/


It certainly isn't in place. The bottom arm is out of line from that
pic too, so it's all going wrong on that one.
>
> Someone's tried to encourage it in the downwards direction because
> the bolt in the top (that just holds a large washer in place as far
> as I can tell) is damaged.


That is evidence of basic ****wittery and lack of understanding of the
kingpin principle. This is Not Good, I'm afraid. As auvache would
say, it bodes, that does.
>
> On the other side, there was a hex head in the middle of the bearing
> that looked might it be some locating pin or other. I just
> ever-so-gently turned it with a spanner and it fell off, couldn't
> really call it shearing:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5421522615/
>
> At least this kingpin is seated:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5421506609/


That caused some head scratching. I can't see the large hex head on
the 'good' side, so let's assume it isn't vital, as hopefully your
hammer-wielding predecessor never 'maintained' that side. <re-reads>
Ah, I getcha. They're both off. And that centre section isn't the
bearing - they are top and bottom, that is the axle, or sleeve within
the axle, that positively locates the kingpin - or not, in the case of
the bad one.
>
> Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
> properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind
> of retainer for the kingpin? It looks like maybe the nut was just a
> lock nut on an allen keyed grub screw - what say the foak - drill out
> with a LH srewdriver? Am I right in thinking they have to be driven
> out from underneath - any tips/ideas how to do that? I couldn't use a
> WUN-like press on it as the whole thing is part of the chassis.


It'll be no good just knocking it down and hoping, Simon. It looks to
me to be misaligned in any case, so you could damage the bottom bush by
belting the kingpin downwards. It will have to come out.

Look here, this is nice and clear, if a bit american:

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf

That's the best one I found while head-scratching and memory rattling,
'cos I haven't touched a kingpin in decades and on first thought, all
the memory files revealed were general impressions of sweating and
swearing, heat and hammers.

So, anyway - the kingpin is fixed in the axle beam, and thanks to the
provision of (bronze(?)) bushes top and bottom (which /must/ be kept
greased) allows the steering swivels to, err, swivel. This means that
the pins on the ends are of smaller diameter than the
machined-to-fit-the-axle centre section, which is a close but not
interference fit (yeah, right) in the axle sleeve. The kingpin has to
be retained in the axle or it may rotate and wear the axle sleeve.

First off, you'll have to remove the pin - the bit behind the large hex
head that is missing, IYSWIM. This is the lockpin, shown on the .pdf.
Has it got a hex-head recess in it? If so, it _should_ unscrew. It
has to unscrew, because it is threaded on its back end. Having said
that, it can't be doing much as the kingpin has moved upwards in
relation to said pin, which should not be possible unless something is
****ed.

The lockpin passes through a plain hole in the axle, then a locating
notch in the kingpin and finally screws into a threaded hole in the
axle behind the kingpin. You can't just blast it out. If it goes all
the way through the axle, you may be able to mount an attack from
there, by chopping or Dremelling a slot in it and taking an impact
driver to it - if there's no chance of grabbing it from the front.

If it is inaccessible from the front and threaded into a blind hole to
the rear, then it gets exciting. The lockpin isn't doing its allotted
job, that much is clear from the kingpin dislocation. The lockpin must
be under some stress, however, as the full diameter of the kingpin must
be bearing on it, which shouldn't be possible (hah!) so it isn't going
to come out easily, like.

I'm sort of thinking out loud as I'm typing here, sort of thing, so
bear with me. It is unlikely to go all the way through, as it isn't in
a notch on the side of the kingpin, is it? It goes smack in the
centreline of the kingpin. So it looks like, as you said, a grubscrew.

It can't be doing a lot, so it has probably sheared but it might still
have a bit sticking out which is jammed against the kingpin. If it was
done up with torque applicable to the size of the fallen-off hex head,
it might well be a bit on the tight side. I don't want to recommend
heating the axle itself, either, as that could cause problems.

Before you try a left-hand drill, I'd try slotting the thing and an
impact driver. If that fails, then go for the left hand drill. Once
it comes out, the rest should be plain sailing: stick a bottle jack
under the axle, in line with the kingpin and directly below it. The
kingpin will be recessed within the exle, as it has already slid
upwards by pretty much the depth of the bearing (sleeve, bronze bush,
whatever is in there). If the diameter of the hole in the axle is less
than the top of the bottle jack, find a big bolt taht is a nice fit in
the axle hole and wedge that, head downwards on top of the jack and
bearing on the base of the kingpin.

Pump the jack up and the weight of the vehicle should slide the kingpin
out for you. If it doesn't, hit the axle with a big hammer in a
downward direction - with the jack pumped up - until it does. It may
go with a bang and the vehicle will then fall on you. Be prepared for
this by placing axle stands to catch the thing - increase the height of
the stands as you pump the thing up, or bad things may occur.
Availability of wooden shims for this purpose, placed under the stands
or between stand and axle is mandatory.

You may well need a new kingpin when you've finished, as it may already
be damaged, perhaps by the PO with the hammer or by being driven around
with the pin halfway out. You will obviously need a new grubscrew and
I'd recommend sorting out the other side while you're at it. Then
grease the kingpins until they squeak, and keep greasing them for the
duration of your ownership.

Let's know how you get on - or if I'm off the mark, some more info/pics
may help. Best of luck, old boy.


--
SIRPip: B12
 
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SIRPip
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      02-07-2011, 08:10 AM
Simon Wilson wrote:

> On 06/02/2011 17:23, Pete Fisher wrote:


> > Some kind of locking bolt not unlike a cotter pin perhaps like on
> > old yank trucks as discussed in this?
> >
> > http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf


Hah!. Ginged!
>
> Indeed, I found that article too thanks. There's nothing sticking out
> the other side though, so I'm still thinking it's a grubscrew with a
> locknut.


There's something that concerns me now. The hex head on top of the
dodgy kingpin, the one that's been hit with a hammer - that suggests
the kingpin screws into the bottom arm. Best try to unscrew the thing,
I suppose. Get some axle stands under the vehicle first, though.

At least you've got plenty of space under there to swing spanners and
hammers, eh?

--
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Simon Wilson
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      02-07-2011, 01:40 PM
On 07/02/2011 09:06, SIRPip wrote:
> Simon Wilson wrote:
>
>> I've been poking around the new toy today.

>
> That's never a good thing to do, 'cos you always spot stuff that you
> wish you'd spotted /before/ you bought the POS.
>>
>> I noticed one of the kingpins isn't fully in place:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5422120706/

>
> It certainly isn't in place. The bottom arm is out of line from that
> pic too, so it's all going wrong on that one.


<looks> Hmm not sure what you're seeing there.

>>
>> Someone's tried to encourage it in the downwards direction because
>> the bolt in the top (that just holds a large washer in place as far
>> as I can tell) is damaged.

>
> That is evidence of basic ****wittery and lack of understanding of the
> kingpin principle. This is Not Good, I'm afraid. As auvache would
> say, it bodes, that does.
>>
>> On the other side, there was a hex head in the middle of the bearing
>> that looked might it be some locating pin or other. I just
>> ever-so-gently turned it with a spanner and it fell off, couldn't
>> really call it shearing:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5421522615/
>>
>> At least this kingpin is seated:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58125090@N00/5421506609/

>
> That caused some head scratching. I can't see the large hex head on
> the 'good' side, so let's assume it isn't vital, as hopefully your
> hammer-wielding predecessor never 'maintained' that side.<re-reads>
> Ah, I getcha. They're both off. And that centre section isn't the
> bearing - they are top and bottom, that is the axle, or sleeve within
> the axle, that positively locates the kingpin - or not, in the case of
> the bad one.


<nods>

>>
>> Any ideas on how to get the kingpins out, or at least get it seated
>> properly? Is the thing that rusted/sheared off likely to be some kind
>> of retainer for the kingpin? It looks like maybe the nut was just a
>> lock nut on an allen keyed grub screw - what say the foak - drill out
>> with a LH srewdriver? Am I right in thinking they have to be driven
>> out from underneath - any tips/ideas how to do that? I couldn't use a
>> WUN-like press on it as the whole thing is part of the chassis.

>
> It'll be no good just knocking it down and hoping, Simon. It looks to
> me to be misaligned in any case, so you could damage the bottom bush by
> belting the kingpin downwards. It will have to come out.


I don't think it's misaligned, but I agree it's as well to take it out
for a look-see.

>
> Look here, this is nice and clear, if a bit american:
>
> http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/kingpin.pdf
>
> That's the best one I found while head-scratching and memory rattling,
> 'cos I haven't touched a kingpin in decades and on first thought, all
> the memory files revealed were general impressions of sweating and
> swearing, heat and hammers.
>
> So, anyway - the kingpin is fixed in the axle beam, and thanks to the
> provision of (bronze(?)) bushes top and bottom (which /must/ be kept
> greased) allows the steering swivels to, err, swivel.


The good news is that everything still swivels. First thing I noticed
was that it all needed greasing, that's when I discovered all the other
issues.

> This means that
> the pins on the ends are of smaller diameter than the
> machined-to-fit-the-axle centre section, which is a close but not
> interference fit (yeah, right) in the axle sleeve. The kingpin has to
> be retained in the axle or it may rotate and wear the axle sleeve.
>
> First off, you'll have to remove the pin - the bit behind the large hex
> head that is missing, IYSWIM. This is the lockpin, shown on the .pdf.
> Has it got a hex-head recess in it? If so, it _should_ unscrew. It
> has to unscrew, because it is threaded on its back end. Having said
> that, it can't be doing much as the kingpin has moved upwards in
> relation to said pin, which should not be possible unless something is
> ****ed.


I got the one out on the bad side. Tried the left handed drill but
didn't have one quite the right size so ended up using (very carefully)
a stud extractor. It came out easily, and indeed is a grub screw. So the
hex thing was a locknut. I guess it should locate on a keyway on the
kingpin, which of course isn't visible right now as it's in the wrong place.

>
> The lockpin passes through a plain hole in the axle, then a locating
> notch in the kingpin and finally screws into a threaded hole in the
> axle behind the kingpin. You can't just blast it out. If it goes all
> the way through the axle, you may be able to mount an attack from
> there, by chopping or Dremelling a slot in it and taking an impact
> driver to it - if there's no chance of grabbing it from the front.


See above, thnakfully simpler than that with this one.

>
> If it is inaccessible from the front and threaded into a blind hole to
> the rear, then it gets exciting. The lockpin isn't doing its allotted
> job, that much is clear from the kingpin dislocation. The lockpin must
> be under some stress, however, as the full diameter of the kingpin must
> be bearing on it, which shouldn't be possible (hah!) so it isn't going
> to come out easily, like.
>
> I'm sort of thinking out loud as I'm typing here, sort of thing, so
> bear with me. It is unlikely to go all the way through, as it isn't in
> a notch on the side of the kingpin, is it? It goes smack in the
> centreline of the kingpin. So it looks like, as you said, a grubscrew.
>
> It can't be doing a lot, so it has probably sheared but it might still
> have a bit sticking out which is jammed against the kingpin. If it was
> done up with torque applicable to the size of the fallen-off hex head,
> it might well be a bit on the tight side. I don't want to recommend
> heating the axle itself, either, as that could cause problems.
>
> Before you try a left-hand drill, I'd try slotting the thing and an
> impact driver. If that fails, then go for the left hand drill. Once
> it comes out, the rest should be plain sailing:


Ok, this is where I am right now.

> stick a bottle jack
> under the axle, in line with the kingpin and directly below it. The
> kingpin will be recessed within the exle, as it has already slid
> upwards by pretty much the depth of the bearing (sleeve, bronze bush,
> whatever is in there). If the diameter of the hole in the axle is less
> than the top of the bottle jack, find a big bolt taht is a nice fit in
> the axle hole and wedge that, head downwards on top of the jack and
> bearing on the base of the kingpin.


Yup. I didn't have a bottle jack so used the trolley jack with a socket
against the kingpin.
>
> Pump the jack up and the weight of the vehicle should slide the kingpin
> out for you.


Unfortunately not.

> If it doesn't, hit the axle with a big hammer in a
> downward direction - with the jack pumped up - until it does.


This is where it will all go wrong knowing my luck with hammers. I have
belted the axle, but I suspect I'm gonna need a bigger hammer. I'd
really like one of these:
url:http://www.concepttools.co.uk/p/SYKE...KING-3550.aspx
but look at the price!

Also this seems to be a good idea too:
url:http://totalldvsherpa.19.forumer.com...pic.php?t=2879 (scroll
down for pic) I don't have the materials to hand to make this but it may
be better to source them rather than risk buggering things up with an ammer.

> It may
> go with a bang and the vehicle will then fall on you. Be prepared for
> this by placing axle stands to catch the thing - increase the height of
> the stands as you pump the thing up, or bad things may occur.
> Availability of wooden shims for this purpose, placed under the stands
> or between stand and axle is mandatory.


Heh. Reading this of course I hadn't thought that far ahead, so good job
it didn't come out really.

>
> You may well need a new kingpin when you've finished, as it may already
> be damaged, perhaps by the PO with the hammer or by being driven around
> with the pin halfway out. You will obviously need a new grubscrew and
> I'd recommend sorting out the other side while you're at it. Then
> grease the kingpins until they squeak, and keep greasing them for the
> duration of your ownership.
>
> Let's know how you get on - or if I'm off the mark, some more info/pics
> may help. Best of luck, old boy.
>


Thank you for taking the time for such a long post.

--
/Simon

 
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