Ok.. Kind of a newbish, lack of technical knowledge question here, but
anyways...

I was wondering what would be the reprocussions of putting on either a
full system, assuming you could make it fit, or a slip on that was not
"made" for your particular year/make/model of bike? I know that the
carbs and jetting would have to be adjusted, but you would need to do
that anyway even for one that is made for you bike. So what would
happen? Is it possible to make any can work on it with the proper
adjustments?

Matt Kirk <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
news:bduob8$qda$(E-Mail Removed):

> Ok.. Kind of a newbish, lack of technical knowledge question here,
> but anyways...
>
> I was wondering what would be the reprocussions of putting on
> either a full system, assuming you could make it fit, or a slip on
> that was not "made" for your particular year/make/model of bike? I
> know that the carbs and jetting would have to be adjusted, but you
> would need to do that anyway even for one that is made for you
> bike. So what would happen? Is it possible to make any can work on
> it with the proper adjustments?

Some have reported here that they encountered a performance loss, some
back pressure is necessary. Some systems like Supertrapp are designed
to enhance power, but they are specifically engineered for the
particular bike and require rejetting the carbs.

If you really want to do right, it would be best to consult with a
motorcycle performance shop with a dynomometer. They can recommend the
proper exhaust/intake and tune the system to match.

It will cost some, but you get what you pay for. Advice from Reeky is
free and about what it's worth.

Well, let me explain a little further what I would like to do. I have a
94 Suzuki GSX600F that already has an after market vance and hines
system on it. It orginially had the dual 2 to 1 exhasts on it, but now
has a 4 to 1 system on it.

Say for instance that I want to put one of those sweet looking burnt
scorpion cans on it. Assuming I could get the mounting done correctly
on it, would this be a really bad idea perfomance wise?

Kaybearjr wrote:

>>From: Matt Kirk (E-Mail Removed)
>
>
>>I was wondering what would be the reprocussions of putting on either a full
>
> system, assuming you could make it fit, or a slip on that was not "made" for
> your particular year/make/model of bike?
>
> What, is the pipe free, or an incredible bargain? The best
> feature of aftermarket pipes is the fact that they are lighter than a stock
> system, and they are cheaper than a stock system, and may or may not enhance
> ground clearance on some older bikes.
>
> A drag racing enthusiast tried to sell me a short header exhaust system that
> was designed for a 750cc bike. I had an 1100cc bike. I didn't buy it. I could
> see that the pipe didn't fit his bike properly, and probably wouldn't fit mine
> any better.
>
> Later, his buddy, who was very knowledgeable with drag bikes, told me that my
> Kerker system was a "dead loss"
> so far as enhancing the power.
>
> He told me that he had a short header 4-into-1 pipe that he would give me free,
> just for coming over and picking it up. It turned out to be the same pipe that
> the first guy had tried to sell me.
>
> I took the free pipe home, and later threw it away without ever bothering to
> try to mount it...
>
> Longer header pipes "tune" at a lower RPM than shorter
> header pipes. Your proposed modification might not work well with the stock
> airbox at the RPM where the engineers decided was the best compromise. You
> might have to re-degree the camshafts to get the pipe to work right.
>
> Maybe you'll take the airbox off and fit K&N oval separate filters, and lose
> all of the powerband-widening benefits of the airbox, and then you'll ride the
> bike at higher RPM and say that the bike has somehow "lost" its low end
> torque...
>
> 4-into-1 pipes always return an adverse wave to the intake system during the
> camshaft overlap period. It blows air backwards out of the carburetors.
> Hotrodders can the phenomenon "stand off" because a fog of fuel air mixture can
> be seen *outside* the carburetor.
>
> This results in a flat spot from 5K to 7K which cannot be tuned out no matter
> how much jet fiddling you do.
>
> 4-into-2-into-1 pipes don't have the adverse pressure wave I described above.
> They were popular several years ago.
>
> But all of the Japanese manufacturers have gone to digitally-controlled exhaust
> throttling valves at the collector now. The throttling valve breaks up the
> adverse pressure waves of a 4-into-1 system. You get a flatter torque curve
> with exhaust throttling systems.
>
> You wouldn't want to replace a system that had an exhaust throttling valve with
> an ordinary 4-into-1 system unless you planned to do all your riding at high
> RPM, like on a race course or a drag strip where exhaust throttling doesn't
> help much.
>
>
>>Is it possible to make any can work on it with the proper adjustments?
>
>
> Just putting a slip on exhaust can won't change the RPM that the collector
> "tunes" at, but it will act like an exhaust throttling valve that is stuck in
> one position. A bigger can will be freer-flowing, and you might need bigger
> mainjets.
>
> A smaller can will be too loud and it might restrict airflow out the exhaust,
> making the engine run hotter because it can't get rid of the heat.
>
> Learn what the numbers on the round mainjets mean. The number stamped on the
> side is in percentages of a millimeter. A #100 mainjet is 100% of a millimeter.
> A #110 main jet does not pass 10% more fuel, it passes a lot more fuel ( maybe
> 20% more) because of the increased area or the orifice. A #150 mainjet will
> pass 270% of the fuel that a #100 mainjet passes.
>
> You can waste a lot of money buying expensive brass jets that you will have no
> further use for when you find that only one size works correctly with the
> throttle wide open.
>
>
>
>
>
>