Am using this NG as an excellent resource, am now looking at the
kickstand. It does not kill the engine when in the down position.
Should I fix it? Do many of you prefer to not have a kickstand
switch?

Next question: Will soon be ordering new sprockets and a chain. The
info with the bike states that an endless chain is to be used and I
understand that an endless will force me to remove the centerstand for
installation. Is that correct? Should I expect any rust or corrosion
to deal with when I remove the centerstand?

Thanks in advance,

Biker Dude

An endless chain would require removal of the SWINGARM. More unnecessary
foolishness. Use a good quality oring chain with a master link and new
sprockets. Refer to your manual how to install the master link clip
correctly. Kickstand switch is a necessary nuisance that will keep you from
having a preventable crash. Fix it or be VERY careful. A prev owner may have
just shorted the switch, an EZ fix. Old Hondas use a rubber stub on the
stand that is supposed to kick it up - has never worked that well for me.
YMMV
"Biker Dude" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:57a8e285-e20e-45b9-b6cf-(E-Mail Removed)...
> Am using this NG as an excellent resource, am now looking at the
> kickstand. It does not kill the engine when in the down position.
> Should I fix it? Do many of you prefer to not have a kickstand
> switch?
>
> Next question: Will soon be ordering new sprockets and a chain. The
> info with the bike states that an endless chain is to be used and I
> understand that an endless will force me to remove the centerstand for
> installation. Is that correct? Should I expect any rust or corrosion
> to deal with when I remove the centerstand?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Biker Dude

Biker Dude <(E-Mail Removed)> writes
>Am using this NG as an excellent resource, am now looking at the
>kickstand. It does not kill the engine when in the down position.
>Should I fix it? Do many of you prefer to not have a kickstand
>switch?
>
I wouldn't bother fixing it - the only one of our bikes that has such a
switch has had it bypassed because a winter's commuting killed the
switch & left it randomly cutting the engine out. Trust me, you only
want to have your wife stranded at her work because her bike won't start
once.

Actually, once was too often.

>Next question: Will soon be ordering new sprockets and a chain. The
>info with the bike states that an endless chain is to be used and I
>understand that an endless will force me to remove the centerstand for
>installation. Is that correct? Should I expect any rust or corrosion
>to deal with when I remove the centerstand?
>
It might have been correct but I've never been sold an endless chain in
>20 years of riding bikes - where I've been replacing an endless chain
the replacement has come with a soft link to rivet up. Seems to work
fine - they're an awful lot easier to deal with if you buy a chain tool
to deal with it.

A top tip is to loosen the gearbox sprocket nut before you split the old
chain - that way you can use the back brake to stop the sprocket turning
as you loosen the nut.
--
Bob Scott

Biker Dude <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> Am using this NG as an excellent resource, am now looking at the
> kickstand. It does not kill the engine when in the down position.
> Should I fix it? Do many of you prefer to not have a kickstand
> switch?

They *always* go wrong. I hate them.
>
> Next question: Will soon be ordering new sprockets and a chain. The
> info with the bike states that an endless chain is to be used and I
> understand that an endless will force me to remove the centerstand for
> installation. Is that correct? Should I expect any rust or corrosion
> to deal with when I remove the centerstand?
>
As the top-posting gonk has said, it's the swinging arm that needs to
come out, but in fact, all you need is a chain with a soft link.

If you are this ignorant, I really suggest you give it to a dealer to
do, because otherwise you're likely to **** something up. No insult
intended: just an example of "If you don't know what you're doing, don't
do it."


--
BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

>
> As the top-posting gonk has said, it's the swinging arm that needs to
> come out, but in fact, all you need is a chain with a soft link.

And a chain with a soft link means I have to acquire the special tool,
right?

> If you are this ignorant, I really suggest you give it to a dealer to
> do, because otherwise you're likely to **** something up. No insult
> intended: just an example of "If you don't know what you're doing, don't
> do it."

Thank you for your kind words of encouragement!

(One more question to all the group: Now that I am officially a biker
what kind of body piercings should I get? I do have an image to
create and foster......)

Biker Dude

Mark Olson <(E-Mail Removed)> writes
>Biker Dude wrote:
>>> As the top-posting gonk has said, it's the swinging arm that needs to
>>> come out, but in fact, all you need is a chain with a soft link.
>>
>> And a chain with a soft link means I have to acquire the special tool,
>> right?
>
>Not really. It will make the rivet heads look nicer, but
>you can do just as a good a job with a ball pein hammer
>and something heavy to back up the chain when you whack
>on it (like a 2nd ball pein hammer). The slightly more
>difficult part is getting the side plate pressed on
>evenly and to the correct depth.
>
Indeed - for years I bodged around with a couple of hammers then I had a
mad fit of extravagance & spent £20 on a cheap n nasty chain riveting
tool from fleabay. The bit that I really notice it for is the side plate
pressing.

The chain tool & the mityvac are the two tools I can't now believe I
waited so long to buy.

--
Bob Scott

On Sep 22, 2:39*pm, Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> And a chain with a soft link means I have to acquire the special tool,
> right?

I never bothered to buy a riveting tool. I use clip-type master links
instead of
soft links.

I degrease the clip and the side plate that it will be against with
MEK or acetone.

Then I put a drop of red Loctite on the clip and a drop of the same on
the side plate.

If will set up in an hour or so and you will have to grind the ends of
the master link pins off the remove the master link.

On Sep 22, 2:39*pm, Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> (One more question to all the group: Now that I am officially a biker
> what kind of body piercings should I get? I do have an image to
> create and foster......)

In order to fit in with this group, you have to take up Morris Men's
dancing with sticks and hankies.

The Older Gentleman will fill you in on what you'll need...

On Sep 22, 11:52*pm, 1949 Whizzer <macmi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 2:39*pm, Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > (One more question to all the group: *Now that I am officially a biker
> > what kind of body piercings should I get? *I do have an image to
> > create and foster......)
>
> In order to fit in with this group, you have to take up Morris Men's
> dancing with sticks and hankies.
>
> The Older Gentleman will fill you in on what you'll need...

Here's what I've found:

"Traditional Morris dancing is today associated with the Cotswolds, a
region of England located between Oxford and the Welsh border.
Cotswold Morris is danced in sets of six dancers arranged in two rows
of three. For some dances, handkerchiefs are held in each hand, while
for other dances short sticks are carried, and struck against each
other or against those of a partner. Part of the costume includes
bells, usually worn tied below the knees.

Costume varies from one Morris team, or 'set', to another, with each
village also producing its own steps and dances. Morris men usually
wear a white shirt, white trousers or dark breeches, and black shoes.
Coloured sashes or baldrics worn over one or both shoulders, or a
waistcoat, serve to distinguish different teams. The Stroud Morris
Dancers in Stroud, Gloucestershire, for example, wear white trousers
and shirts with red and green sashes (the colours of Stroud)."

Hankies, sticks and bells? That sounds a lot more humane than
senseless body piercing. Body piercing only has the desired efffect
on your audience when your
shirt is off but hankies sticks and bells can be displayed any old
time and at any old place.

Then I add the correct costume and I will be a full fledged biker dude
like TOG?

Hey TOG, where may I purchase a Morris Dancer's costurme so I can be a
biker like you?

Biker Dude

Biker Dude <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> >
> > As the top-posting gonk has said, it's the swinging arm that needs to
> > come out, but in fact, all you need is a chain with a soft link.
>
> And a chain with a soft link means I have to acquire the special tool,
> right?

It's easier with the tool, but perfectly do-able without, if you're
careful. As someone else said, getting the side plates on against the
taper of the pins is the slightly tricky bit.
>
> > If you are this ignorant, I really suggest you give it to a dealer to
> > do, because otherwise you're likely to **** something up. No insult
> > intended: just an example of "If you don't know what you're doing, don't
> > do it."
>
> Thank you for your kind words of encouragement!

It's true, though. As one regular poster here has discovered. Again and
again.


--
BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com