How easy is this? I bought a universal bar to replace my cruiser-type
bars. Will I need anything done to it, or will it fit and work as it comes?

Bike is a Kz750 1980.

Thanks!

Masospaghetti wrote:
> How easy is this? I bought a universal bar to replace my cruiser-type
> bars. Will I need anything done to it, or will it fit and work as it comes?

There are three sizes of handlebars. Japanese machines generally use
7/8th inch diameter bars, Harleys use 1 inch diameter bars, and BMW
uses some metric size bar.

The left hand grip is probably glued on, and I've found that slipping
the spray tube of a can of aerosol brake cleaner under the grip and
then squirting some cleaner in there will unstick the rubber grip. If
you have the foam type grips, soaking the left grip in water makes it
swell up for removal.

You shouldn't have to remove the right hand grip, unless you want to
change grips.

The trickiest part of swapping handlebars is getting the throttle cable
out of the twist grip and then re-adjusted right, but, sometimes you
can just loosen the twist grip bolts, front brake lever bolts and the
mirror clamp bolts and slide the old handlebar over to the left, and
then slide the new handlebar into place.

Then, if you slide the new bar as far as possible to the right, you
should be able to get the clutch lever and mirror bracket and
headlight/horn switch onto the new bar without disconnecting anything.

Be sure the clutch cable (or hose) and brake cable (or hose) are routed
correctly and that you can turn the handlebars from steering stop to
steering stop without having the throttle cable get pulled on so the
engine revs up suddenly.

And, check the mirror alignment so you can see behind you while you're
parked before you go out riding and have to adjust your mirrors on the
fly...

Masospaghetti wrote:
> How easy is this? I bought a universal bar to replace my cruiser-type
> bars. Will I need anything done to it, or will it fit and work as it comes?

Lower bars usually work OK. Higher bars may have problems
because the cables and wiring runs may not be long enough.
Same problems may occur with barbacks.

Some bars may have stuff running inside them such as heated
grips wiring. This can be a PITA and may require that
the wiring be replaced.

krusty kritter wrote:
> Masospaghetti wrote:
> > How easy is this? I bought a universal bar to replace my cruiser-type
> > bars. Will I need anything done to it, or will it fit and work as it comes?
>
> There are three sizes of handlebars. Japanese machines generally use
> 7/8th inch diameter bars, Harleys use 1 inch diameter bars, and BMW
> uses some metric size bar.

I won't swear this is true of all beemers, but airheads at least
use a 22mm "7/8" bar. Best way to be sure is to measure with
calipers, as there may be some variation from one bar to the next.
I run Honda barbacks on my BMW bars just fine, so I wouldn't
expect big problems.

If a control slips onto a 7/8 bar loosely, do not overtighten
trying to get it to grip, as this may snap it. You'd probably
be better off shimming it with brass or beer cans.

Masospaghetti <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> How easy is this? I bought a universal bar to replace my cruiser-type
> bars. Will I need anything done to it, or will it fit and work as it comes?
>
> Bike is a Kz750 1980.
>
If it's the right diameter, it'll work. You'll have some extra cable
length flailing around, mind.



--
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BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....

Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> krusty kritter wrote:

> > There are three sizes of handlebars. Japanese machines generally use
> > 7/8th inch diameter bars, Harleys use 1 inch diameter bars, and BMW
> > uses some metric size bar.
>
> I won't swear this is true of all beemers, but airheads at least
> use a 22mm "7/8" bar. Best way to be sure is to measure with
> calipers, as there may be some variation from one bar to the next.
> I run Honda barbacks on my BMW bars just fine, so I wouldn't
> expect big problems.

7/8th's of an inch is 0.875. 22mm is 0.866. The difference is 0.008 and
so the handlebar clamps and switch gear clamps would be very loose.
>
> If a control slips onto a 7/8 bar loosely, do not overtighten
> trying to get it to grip, as this may snap it. You'd probably
> be better off shimming it with brass or beer cans.

Ah, yes. The Pirsig Solution...

krusty kritter wrote:
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:

> 7/8th's of an inch is 0.875. 22mm is 0.866. The difference is 0.008 and
> so the handlebar clamps and switch gear clamps would be very loose.

This has been hashed to death on the airheads list. Neither
"7/8" or "22mm" should be taken at face value. "7/8" is
an approximation of 22mm, which is the measurement most bars
seem to center around. Best solution, go buy a cheapo plastic
vernier caliper for a couple bucks and measure.

In my own experience, I have never seen BMW bars incompatable with
"7/8" handlebar stuff, but I won't go so far as to claim they
couldn't exist. My bet would be that by the late '70s at
least, most mfrs had pretty much standardized on something
pretty close to 22 mm.

> > If a control slips onto a 7/8 bar loosely, do not overtighten
> > trying to get it to grip, as this may snap it. You'd probably
> > be better off shimming it with brass or beer cans.
>
> Ah, yes. The Pirsig Solution...

Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> krusty kritter wrote:

> > 7/8th's of an inch is 0.875. 22mm is 0.866. The difference is 0.008 and
> > so the handlebar clamps and switch gear clamps would be very loose.
>
> This has been hashed to death on the airheads list. Neither
> "7/8" or "22mm" should be taken at face value. "7/8" is
> an approximation of 22mm, which is the measurement most bars
> seem to center around. Best solution, go buy a cheapo plastic
> vernier caliper for a couple bucks and measure.

I have a nice Craftsman dial indicator vernier caliper. I sold my
Peacock vernier caliper because it was in excess of any likely
requirement.

I just measured an OEM Suzuki handlebar. It was 0.875 where the
controls clamp on, and 0.880 in the middle. An aftermarket "superbike
bar" was 0.880 on the ends and in the middle. I avoided measuring
anywhere near a bend, because bending makes the bar locally
"D-shaped"...

> In my own experience, I have never seen BMW bars incompatable with
> "7/8" handlebar stuff, but I won't go so far as to claim they
> couldn't exist. My bet would be that by the late '70s at
> least, most mfrs had pretty much standardized on something
> pretty close to 22 mm.

The BMW bar that a friend gave me several years ago after I crashed and
bent my bar turned out to be too loose in the handlebar clamps and I
never considered the Pirsig Solution at the time, I just turned around
and sold the BMW bar for $5 to help sponsor myself at the racetrack.

Everybody's pit looked like a yard sale, somebody would come along and
find something they wanted, and if I was out on the racetrack doing
laps, they'd take the part and leave the money under a rock...

krusty kritter wrote:

> > In my own experience, I have never seen BMW bars incompatable with
> > "7/8" handlebar stuff, but I won't go so far as to claim they
> > couldn't exist. My bet would be that by the late '70s at
> > least, most mfrs had pretty much standardized on something
> > pretty close to 22 mm.
>
> The BMW bar that a friend gave me several years ago after I crashed and
> bent my bar turned out to be too loose in the handlebar clamps and I
> never considered the Pirsig Solution at the time, I just turned around
> and sold the BMW bar for $5 to help sponsor myself at the racetrack.

My BMW bars sit very happily in a pair of Honda barbacks.

>From an airhead list guru:

OK, you made me go out to the shop and break out the trusty dial
micrometer. I got a surprise.

I found a set of 1984 OEM RT bars, 21.96 mm.

Two sets of Magura replacement bars for BMW: US style bar (/5
replacement)=22.04 mm

The Magura S" bend bars were 22.48 mm, but i couldn;t get a real
good measurement because they are on my R75, and I could only get
at the bars near the bends, where I think they are a little
distorted.

Now here's the kick in the butt: My Suzuki SV650S clip-ons measure
22.22 mm, right in the middle of all the BMW pars. So the BMW
controls
would fit those Suzuki clip on's just fine.

Sometime in the past 20 years, the Japanese manufacturers have
started
using actual 22 mm handlebars? I clearly remember snapping BOTH of
the
lever perches when I tried mounting a set of Honda CB750F bars off
my
'79 CB750F onto my 1975 R75/6. (OK, I was younger and stupider then.
Or at least younger)

So if you want a universal standard, I think there are several
to choose from.