I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike use, but a
bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably best.

Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?

Cheers

Nige

In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, Nige says...
>
> I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike use, but a
> bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably best.
>
> Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-34570.../dp/B0001K9T2O

On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 20:32:37 +0100, Nige wrote:

> "petrolcan" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
>> In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, Nige says...
>>>
>>> I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike use,
>>> but a
>>> bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably best.
>>>
>>> Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?
>>
>> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-34570...ds-Ratchet/dp/
B0001K9T2O
>>
>>
>>
> That looks just the job, draper stuff is usually ok.
>
> It's not as if I'm gonna have it in bits every five minutes.
>
> Ta

80nm is only 60 ft-lbs. This probably won't be enough for some things you
may want to do - e.g. the front sprocket nut and the nut holding the
clutch basket on most bikes need to be torqued well in excess of this.
Ideally you need two torque wrenches - one for the smaller stuff like the
bolts that hold engine covers in place and another one for the big stuff


--
Tony
'04 Ducati ST3, '08 DL650GT,
97 TW200, '87 semi-rat LS650, OMF#24

M.Badger <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> .
> I currently use it and its bigger brother. They replaced a pair of the
> ubiquitous Norbars. In common with a lot of Norbar users, the twiddle knob (
> oo-er ) fell off, the scale window clouded up and I lost the square bits.
> Got many years service out of them though.

Blimey. Whatever happened to Norbar? Mine is over 30 years old and still
perfect.


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Kawasaki GPz750 Honda CB400F
Triumph Street Triple Suzuki TS250ERx2 GN250.
Higgler Supreme
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

Nige wrote:
> "petrolcan" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed)...
>> In article <(E-Mail Removed)>, Nige says...
>>>
>>> I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike
>>> use, but a
>>> bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably best.
>>>
>>> Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?
>>
>> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-34570.../dp/B0001K9T2O
>>
>>
>
> That looks just the job, draper stuff is usually ok.

Not that impressed with 'em meself.

When I was shopping for a large g-clamp the only store with any big enough,
stocked Draper.

I could see from across the shop the row of g-clamps hanging on pegs - all
of them had crooked screw fitting.

If you buy one of their torque wrenches, you'd better hope they made at
least a half arsed attempt at precision.

On Jun 13, 7:58*pm, "Nige" <n...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike use, but a
> bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably *best.
>
> Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?
Jolly pleased with my Sykes Pickavant. Had it for 20 or so years
though so i've no idea if they are still good.

Steve

On Jun 13, 9:02*pm, TMack <qw...@yuiop.com> wrote:
> 80nm is only 60 ft-lbs. *This probably won't be enough for some things you
> may want to do - e.g. the front sprocket nut and the nut holding the
> clutch basket on most bikes need to be torqued well in excess of this.
> Ideally you need two torque wrenches - one for the smaller stuff like the
> bolts that hold engine covers in place and another one for the big stuff
If I need a breaker bar to get it off 2 grunts is usually used to put
it back on.

Steve

Nige <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike use, but a
> bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably best.
>
> Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?
>
> Cheers
>
Buy a decent quality one from Ebay rather than a cheap one brand new. I
can check it for accuracy in our workshops at some point in the next 12
months or you can use the old favourite of checking it against some
fasteners that you know are torqued up correctly.

The Older Gentleman wrote:

> M.Badger <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
> > .
> > I currently use it and its bigger brother. They replaced a pair of
> > the ubiquitous Norbars. In common with a lot of Norbar users, the
> > twiddle knob ( oo-er ) fell off, the scale window clouded up and I
> > lost the square bits. Got many years service out of them though.
>
> Blimey. Whatever happened to Norbar? Mine is over 30 years old and
> still perfect.

It's only perfect if it's been calibrated recently

--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Inter-Continental Hyperbolistic Missile , CBR600F-W racebike
in the making, TS250C, RD400F (somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)

On Jun 13, 7:58*pm, "Nige" <n...@btinternet.com> wrote:
> I'm after one, not wanting to spend much money, mainly for bike use, but a
> bit of car use, so 3/8ths drive is probably *best.
>
> Anyone got any recommendations, or avoiders?

Buy two - one for "low value" settings, eg 10-80Nm, and the other
for doing the heavy stuff, 80Nm-200Nm. You won't get a "cheap" one
that will be accurate (enough) across the whole range, imo.

If you're really posh, get a digital vibrating Snap-On. Oo-er.

--
Antony