1500gl-Hard Starting

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by mystro, Mar 14, 2005.

  1. mystro

    mystro Guest

    I'm needing tips on how to correct a newly purchased hard starting 88
    GL1500 with 76k on the od,seems to run well when warmed up but starting
    can be a big issue especially after only a few tries the volt meter
    drops to below 10 volts and the starter just drags..I had the the batter
    load tested the tech says was fine but I have my doubts since it drops
    down so fast after just a few tries. Anyway,correcting the starting will
    certainly help big time so any ideas I can do myself will be appreciated
    and save me $$.

    My starting routine in 50 degree weather is full choke and no throtttle
    with usually 3 or 4 sec cranking..after only a few of these the battery
    drops. :(
     
    mystro, Mar 14, 2005
    #1
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  2. mystro

    mystro Guest

    Unfortunautly it is still hard to start even with a full charge..I think
    your right about the battery though,I'll recheck it and prepare to buy a
    new one.
     
    mystro, Mar 14, 2005
    #2
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  3. mystro

    jb Guest

    HI,

    A 'Starting" suggestion, or two - or three, or etc.....:

    Clean the battery terminals - lube w/electrolyte grease (sparingly)
    Clean the battery GROUND wire end and the ground bolt and/or bracket that
    the bolt goes through (lube as above)
    Clean the starter solenoid ends - (lube)
    Clean the starter solenoid contacts (if available)
    Clean the starter solenoid to starter cable ends (lube)

    If possible REMOVE the starter:
    Clean where the starter mounts (lube as above)
    Clean the starter mounting bolts (lube as above)
    Check the starter brushes and brush springs.... (do NOT lube) :>)

    If you can see a pattern..CLEAN - CLEAN - CLEAN ANYTHING that is in the
    charging - battery - starting circuit...

    The wings (others too) need all the help they can get in the starting
    area... and ANY rust, etc. in that path WILL lead to a 'voltage drop' hence
    a poor starting issue.

    This has worked for me - the cycle starts GREAT - spins the starter like
    new -

    YMMV

    FWIW consider the new "jell batteries" - no water to boil out - .... holds
    charge better (WFM)

    Hope this helps.... Good Luck -

    The above is MY opinion and others will vary... but THE issue at hand is to
    HAVE FUN!!!

    Take care = John b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL1100A
     
    jb, Mar 15, 2005
    #3
  4. mystro

    Bownse Guest

    the engine won't fire if the batter doesn't stay above a certain floor
    level. replacement batteries at wal mart are about $50. clean the
    terminals on both ends of the cables first (battery and starter
    solenoid). check the main fuse. it can be cracked and causing problems
    without you even knowing it. some replace the main fuse (flat metal
    strip) with a more standard auto fuse so it's easier to replace, more
    common when on the road, and easier to trouble shoot.
     
    Bownse, Mar 15, 2005
    #4
  5. Try jump starting from a car battery, if it starts smartly, you need a new
    battery.
     
    George R. Young, Mar 15, 2005
    #5
  6. If the battery drops down to 10V after just a few starting attempts,
    then the battery is definitely toast. That may not be the only
    problem, but to really do an accurate diagnosis, you're going to have
    to fix the battery problem before you start trying other solutions.

    Ten volts may not seem too bad, considering a fully-charged battery is
    only about 12.5 volts, but 10V for a battery that's not under load
    means it's essentially flat.
     
    Scott Gardner, Mar 15, 2005
    #6
  7. mystro

    Bownse Guest

    Actually, it's the brushes that wear out. For a couple of bucks each
    they can be replaced.
     
    Bownse, Mar 15, 2005
    #7
  8. mystro

    Paul Cassel Guest

    new plug wires. HT circuit doesn't last that long.
     
    Paul Cassel, Mar 15, 2005
    #8

  9. I'd really recommend an AGM (absorbed-glass-mat) battery if one is
    available in an appropriate size for your bike. Nothing to spill, no
    venting worries, they can't freeze, and they hold their charge for a
    LONG time, even if you don't keep them on a charger. I really think
    they represent the future of battery technology for cars and bikes.
     
    Scott Gardner, Mar 16, 2005
    #9
  10. mystro

    Calgary Guest

    I think someone mentioned cleaning all the wire connections and
    terminals too and that was good advice.
    --


    Don Binns


    2000 - Yamaha Venture Millennium Edition
    84 - Virago 1000

    You start with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience.
    The trick is to fill the bag of experience before you empty the
    bag of luck

    http://www3.telus.net/public/dbinns/reeky.htm
    http://www3.telus.net/public/dbinns/
    http://www3.telus.net/public/dbinns/banff.htm
    http://www3.telus.net/public/dbinns/kananaskis.htm
    http://www3.telus.net/public/dbinns/walkercalgary.htm
    http://www3.telus.net/public/dbinns/calgarybrowning.htm
     
    Calgary, Mar 16, 2005
    #10
  11. mystro

    Bownse Guest

    Your Honda shop will be able to look them up for you. If you do the job
    it takes a little soldering skill. I had mine replaced when I did the
    42,000 mile major service. Remember to blow out the accumulated dust
    from the are when in there.
     
    Bownse, Mar 16, 2005
    #11
  12. mystro

    Bownse Guest

    Nope... the alternator. Lets the battery get undercharged/deeply
    discharged and you get dead batteries or hard starts.
     
    Bownse, Mar 16, 2005
    #12
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