1977 KZ-1000

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by sunart, Oct 20, 2005.

  1. sunart

    sunart Guest

    My neighbor has a KZ-1000 #KZT00A-503335 built in 11-76 it has 5,359
    original miles on it. It has been sitting unused for about 20 years,
    tank is full of rust, and probably junk, the carbs are going to need at
    least rebuilding, the exhaust has been changed to 4 into 2, the seat
    been replaced, the rotors are rusted, but turn. He wants to sell it,
    anyone tell me if tanks and carb kits are still available, what might
    it be
    worth fixed up, and what should I offer him? Thanks, Doug
    sunart, Oct 20, 2005
  2. The KZ1000 had a 4-2 exhaust as OE.

    It's a long way from being the most desirable Big Zed, but definitely
    worth restoring if you get it cheap enough. 500 bucks?
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 20, 2005
  3. Car guys always ask about carb kits, saying, "I'm gonna throw a carb
    kit in there and that'll get 'er done." Car guys don't understand
    motorcycle carburetors ayway.

    You're talking about maybe $30 per carb kit, four kits required. That
    may be a waste of money if you don't need all the brass parts.

    www.oldbikebarn.com sells carburetor kits, but, with so few miles on
    motorcycle, you might not even need any parts except for float bowl

    You might be able to spritz out all the gum and varnish with Berryman's

    B-12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner (the aerosol spray).

    I don't recall whether the KZ-1000 has slide valve carbs or butterfly
    constant vacuum carbs. You can look at www.partsfish.com to see if it
    the constant vacuum carbs with rubber diaphragms and throttle

    If you have a carb with a torn diaphragm, the whole vacuum slide with
    rubber diaphragm costs about $100...
    krusty kritter, Oct 20, 2005
  4. Slide. Trust me.
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 20, 2005
  5. sunart

    Ray Curry Guest

    If it were me and I owned a 76 and know it inside and out, I would pay
    zero for the bike as is. I would restore it and if I didn't decide to
    keep it, I would offer to split any profit over the cost of getting it
    running. Then I would spend the following:

    1. 29MM smooth bore carbs, still available from Sudco, if you can find a
    shop that will get you a discount, maybe $400 or less. The stockers were
    awful, 26 MM instead of the previous Z's 28s. They were the first of the
    smog controlled versions with an idle air screw on the bottom instead of
    the idle gas screw on the side.

    2. Aftermarket replacement for the regulator/rectifier. What's in there
    is probably fried or will be shortly if you get it running.

    3. Boil and replate anything that's chrome that isn't perfect, exhaust,
    fork legs, etc.

    Tanks can be found, not from Kawi but from parts brokers that bought
    parts from Kawi when declared out of date.

    If it is a 1000 and not a KZ900, it's a 77 introduced late in 76. The
    crank was reballanced and has a bit more flywheel than previous. The
    frame is a bit stronger with roller bearings in the swingarm pivot. It
    rode a little nicer than my previous (73 and 75) Z1s but it was a big
    disappointment in sales because it received a lot of non-delivered hype
    and there was suddenly competion from big Honda (Goldwings) and the
    Yamaha triple and the Suzuki Z lookalikes. You likely might have to send
    the crank to Falicon if it has set enough to rust the bottom end
    bearings. The stock exhaust was quite good as a 4-2 and didn't have the
    rust problem that early 4-pipe exhausts had.
    Ray Curry, Oct 21, 2005

  6. Car guys don't understand car carbs either. Not really. Shoot krusty, there
    are mechanics over the age of 26 that never drove a car with a carb let alone
    worked on a car that had one.

    Soon there will be no carbs on motorcycles. Everything will be fuel
    injected. When that occurs then the only thing we will have to work on are
    classic/antique vehicles.

    R. Pierce Butler, Oct 21, 2005
  7. <Nods in agreement>

    Already it's getting harder to find mechanics who understand that (for
    example) older bikes' brakes are not "defective", just "made that way".
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 21, 2005
  8. (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
    Are you referring to the amount of pressure on the levers to make them
    stop? I can understand that. I rode a ST1300 and the brakes on it are
    akin to power brakes compared to my dual caliper, dual piston front brakes
    on my 25 YO Honda.

    R. Pierce Butler, Oct 21, 2005
  9. If it's any consolation, HD brakes required a lot more lever force than
    any UJM brakes. Brute strength was needed on a Sportster I rode

    Then along came large diameter 13" disk brakes in the mid-1980's. My
    friend installed a set of PM brakes on his GSXR-750 and also installed
    a brake lever from his RG-500 Gamma, which had more lever ratio. He
    warned me, "You're used to grabbing a big handfull of brakes. Just use
    one finger to pull the lever, and maybe two fingers after you get used
    it it."

    He was right, one finger was enough to stop the machine at ordinary
    windy road speeds. But he apparently forgot his own advice and braked
    too hard going into Turn 1 at Willow Springs. A witness said that he'd
    never seen anybody land on their head that hard and walk away from it...
    krusty kritter, Oct 21, 2005
  10. Well, yes, that and the actual retardation available (I'll admit that
    modern tyres help enormously here, too).

    And if you think dual caliper dual-piston brakes are poor on a 25
    year-old Honda, try riding an early SOHC Honda CB750 with *one* disc
    boasting just *one* piston.

    Actually, my recently-acquired Yamaha XS650 (Yay!! Got one again -
    every five or six years the bug bites and I *have* to buy another one),
    with its single front disc, is a bit sphincter-puckering in the brakes
    department, too.
    chateau.murray, Oct 21, 2005
  11. It would be nice to put some brakes on my aging CBX that would make it
    easier to brake. I am concerned that if I put on calipers with bigger/more
    pistons there might not be enough volume fromm the master cylinder to
    properly stop the bike. The brakes are currently stock including the pads.
    Maybe some organic pads which are softer but grip better?

    R. Pierce Butler, Oct 22, 2005
  12. If you put on larger, more powerful calipers, you may indeed need a
    bigger capacity master cylinder, but it's not a hard mod.

    You're right - stock CBX brakes were considered marginal 25 years ago. A
    change of pads won't help.
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 22, 2005
  13. (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
    Gee I always considered the CBX brakes to be pretty good. Especially
    compared to the CB550 I had before that. The brakes on my son's 99 Magna
    are about the same as the CBX. I can haul that CBX down in a hurry with
    two fingers and if I grab a handful, things get pretty interesting.

    R. Pierce Butler, Oct 22, 2005
  14. You want to try something a bit more modern, to make a true comparison.
    And CB550s, with their single-piston caliper and single disc, weren't
    great stoppers, anyway - agree.

    In fact, the only single-disc SOHC four whose brakes fully matched its
    performance (IMHO) was the CB400 Four.

    The CBX's brakes are OK up to about 80-90mph. Trying to stop in a hurry
    from 100+, or less if you're carrying a pillion, and you realise they're
    seriously deficient. They're more or less the same calipers as fitted to
    the SOHC CB750F2 and they have another 30bhp, 50lbs weight and 15mph to
    cope with.
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 22, 2005
  15. (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
    WHAT!?!?! Knowingly break the law by intentionally driving over 100
    MPH?!?! I would never do that! :)>)

    R. Pierce Butler, Oct 22, 2005
  16. I *wish* I'd kept my old speeding ticket with "in excess of 118mph" on

    Cost me my licence for a month, that did.
    The Older Gentleman, Oct 22, 2005
  17. sunart

    badaztek Guest

    the tank is no problem if it isnt ate out completely ,just throw some
    heavy nuts or a piece of chain (heavier than a dog chain your local
    hardware store should be able to help you out there) and rattle the hell
    out of it for awhile .
    Eastwood company sells a tank sealant kit that will seal any pin holes
    the tank may have and basically make it like new and protect the inside
    a lil better than plain steel ,I've even heard of guys taking brand new
    tanks and coating it with it just for extra protection ,and to paint it
    well the rattle can can do a pretty good job if you use a high quality
    paint and primer it properly too helps alot ,I've seen some nice bikes
    that were painted with rattle cans and the owners just did the normal
    prep (cleaned off the old paint and rust ,primered with a self etching
    primer ,paint then wet sanded it down smooth and sometimes had it
    clearcoated and wet sanded again)and it comes out great looking and
    eastwood does sell some nice selection of paints for everything from
    drivetrain parts to chassis and wheels.
    another alternative to chrome is getting it powder coated with a chrome
    powdercoat ,I've seen a couple examples of it and it is hard to tell
    that it isnt chrome,it looks like the chrome they used to put on parts
    decades ago with the thick nickel plating they did before final
    chroming(unlike today where they are more conservative with it),and
    another plus to powder coat is it is more durable than paint and even
    better than actual chrome for durability and it hides any little
    scratches in the metal
    good luck and good riding
    badaztek, Oct 25, 2005
  18. (The Older Gentleman) wrote in
    Comparing brake improvements from a CB550 to a ST1300 is like comparing
    brakes from a 1958 Ford Pickup to the Brembos on a Porsche.

    R. Pierce Butler, Oct 27, 2005
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