2002 Suzuki Katana Spark Plugs

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by wbowlin, Feb 26, 2007.

  1. wbowlin

    wbowlin Guest

    Does anyone know of a site that describes basic maintenance of a 2002
    Suzuki Katana, including the replacement of spark plugs? I am asking
    on behalf of a friend and any help would be appreciated.

    wbowlin, Feb 26, 2007
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  2. wbowlin

    BORG Guest

    If you can't change a feckin spark plug you shouldn't own a bike

    XJ900 Trike ** GS850 Trike
    XV1000 TR1 Chop ** XLH1200 Sporty Chop

    [Rot 13 it]
    BORG, Feb 26, 2007
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  3. wbowlin

    John Johnson Guest

    Your friend should definitely invest in a service manual. You can likely
    get an aftermarket manual (e.g. Clymers, Haynes) for around $20, and the
    Suzuki manual for something more than that (probably worth it too, but
    I'm not familiar with Suzuki's, so I might be wrong). At the very least,
    check your local library (if in the USA) for manuals. THey often have
    them available for checkout.


    'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
    John Johnson, Feb 26, 2007
  4. Are you referring to a Jap-market 400 Katana, a ditto 250 Katana, some
    600 branded for the US market, or even a 50cc scooter which also bears
    the same name?

    It might just help to know, you see.
    The Older Gentleman, Feb 26, 2007
  5. Look in the owners manual for the correct spark plug type. If you
    don't know, just replace them. I mean, it's only like $10 and it
    could save a lot of headaches. Also, If it hasn't been maintained or
    ridden for a while, put some carb cleaner through it. My katana has
    some carb problems, so if yours runs, head off the problems. Search
    this group for more info. You don't want the stuff that contains
    petroleum distillates, that is for injectors.
    In general, if it hasn't been riden for a while a few basics probably
    need covered:
    *Check the tires (obvious but important)
    -pressure and tread depth
    *Change the oil and filter (always a good idea after it has sat for a
    *Lube the chain (you can buy proper o-ring chain lube at about any
    auto parts store)
    *Check the chain tension and sproket wear (Katana's don't have a ton
    of torque so this probably isn't an issue)
    *If it has been sitting, change the gas and check your fuel lines and
    filter. Probably change the filter ($2)
    *Check both master cylinders for proper brake fluid levels. (some
    would recommend changing the brake fluid every year or two)
    *Check the brake pads and discs.
    That's the basics (as I know them). If it has been sitting a year or
    more, the carbs may need a more serious cleaning, depending on the
    amount of varnish. Read up in this group about carbs before you screw
    up the idle adjust screw setting. I received a lot of good info last
    summer. Search for Katana carbs or something to that effect and it
    should come up.

    Hope that helps.
    2000 Suzuki katana gsx750f, Feb 26, 2007
  6. No, it doesn't. Read my posting again and get your attributions sorted
    The Older Gentleman, Feb 26, 2007
  7. wbowlin

    wbowlin Guest

    It is a 600 CC Suzuki Katana sport bike, I'm assuming branded for the
    US market. I don't know much at all about bikes, which is one of the
    reasons for the original post.
    wbowlin, Feb 27, 2007
  8. wbowlin

    wbowlin Guest

    It has been sitting for a while, so thanks for the info.
    wbowlin, Feb 27, 2007
  9. wbowlin

    wbowlin Guest

    I tend to agree, but I don't own the bike and my friend is wanting to
    get it running so she can sell it. It has been sitting for a while.
    She isn't getting rid of the bike to make you look right, but only
    because she has hurt her back and can't ride now. Thanks.
    wbowlin, Feb 27, 2007
  10. wbowlin

    BORG Guest

    BORG, Feb 27, 2007
  11. Ah.
    The Older Gentleman, Feb 27, 2007
  12. Probably the GSX600F, it was sold as a Katana in the US but I don't
    know for how long.

    Spark-plugs are a bitch, allow at least an hour (especially if you
    don't have suitable tools to hand; the plug spanner in the original
    toolkit is OK, but it helps to have a socket the right size to fit the
    other end so you can use a ratchet and extension). Remove all the screws
    from the sides of the front fairing so you can get the tank out (you don't
    have to remove the fairing itself, that adds another 20 or 30 minutes).
    Remove the two mounting bolts at the rear of the tank, and lift the back,
    disconnecting hoses and electrical connections as required. Remove the
    tank once it's clear of encumbrances. Remove the frame cross-brace that
    fits directly above the plugs :-( -- you may have to wiggle this around a
    bit to get it past the fairing if that's only loosened. Remove the four
    plug caps, remembering which goes where. Change plugs. Replace plug
    caps, making sure the rubber boots clip into their holes to keep water
    out. Reverse the rest of the disassembly...

    Ivan Reid, School of Engineering & Design, _____________ CMS Collaboration,
    Brunel University. [email protected][brunel.ac.uk|cern.ch] Room 40-1-B12, CERN
    GSX600F, RG250WD "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 JKLO#003, 005
    WP7# 3000 LC Unit #2368 (tinlc) UKMC#00009 BOTAFOT#16 UKRMMA#7 (Hon)
    KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".
    Dr Ivan D. Reid, Feb 27, 2007
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