3 months into my first faired bike

Hmmm. Not designed for easy disassembly are they these fairing things?
I can understand, if not sympathise terribly much, why previous owners
left half the bolts off.

I think I am going to ditch the bottom and the middle and just run round
with the top and the crash bars from the donor bike.

Now that I am inside though I can do any number of little jobs that need
doing. Not the least of which is the oil leak, which by a stroke of
good fortune was, once in there, piss easy to find:-

http://www.auvache.force9.co.uk/ukrm/leak.mpg


It is not overflowing pot stuff though. The normally iffy main beam came
on when tested and absolutely refused to do anything else other than
shine steadfastly no matter how much I shook rattled and pulled things.

 

Muck wrote

That is a given anyway. It has to come off anyway to see if it is the
gasket or worse[1] and a new one will be provided. Hopefully it is just
that.

There may be horror stories yet to come. I know the bike has been down
the road (both sides) and it bears obvious scars but who knows what
trauma lurks beneath?

The right side crankcase cover looks out of place when compared to the
rest of the alloy surrounding it, far too clean. Mind you it has had a
bath of warm new oil for the last few weeks so I am not really surprised
it comes up clean on a greasy rag but it still looks a tad too shiny.

The bolt where the leak is, is right next to one of the internal
locating dowels and when I leaned not too hard on it came undone, which
none of the others have done. The rest of them have needed a good heave
to crack. It wasn't loose but it was the loosest.

I reckon the worst case is a lump missing from the metal that holds the
dowel and a crack travelling from there to the hole where the bolt goes
through. That makes it a new gasket and a bit of shower sealant. So no
big deal either way.

 

Muck wrote

It is a very possibility given what I know. However I have a donor bike
of similar age sitting in the front garden which has not been down the
road, if the provenance is to be believed. I am going to have a damned
good look at the area around there as tomorrow the crash bars are coming
off it. So I will have something to compare.

Eh? Get real laddie, this is the 21st fucking century. Glues comes out
of tubes these days not in fucking frozen sticks that you have to melt
to use. FFS I did that crap when I was a fucking apprentice.

I had a quick look at what Halfrauds have got to offer while I was in
there getting my cheap as it comes bike oil and a can of WD40 yesterday.
Their selection of hideously dangerous exotic do it at home chemistry
experiments is very wide.


Bonus of the day was finding a braided brake hose in my bits collection
that is an inch too long. Yes I could hardly believe it either but by
the law of averages I suppose it had to happen eventually. When all the
things are done my Bloo GS will be sporting a brand fucking spanking new
braided stainless steel front brake hose and maybe a bit if red plastic
so it might not be quite as bloo as it should but it will have braided
hose.

 

muck@_TEETH_rulex.net (Muck) wrote in message

If you can get it clean enough I'd consider JB Weld. Mind you I'm a
lazy bastard and cannot weld so an epoxy is probably the limit of my
skills...

 

Muck wrote

When I were a lad we used to have a pot of boiled horses on the go in
the school art classroom. It need heating up until it turned to a
liquid suitable for use as a glue. Would you please tell me in what way
brazing is different from this from the perspective of gluing stuff
together. There is no fucking mystic science to it like these
engineering types would have you believe, it is just fucking glue even
the same rules apply about cleaning your work first and not eating it.



and whilst I am feeling the happy, the tank came off today without too
much of a fight and the carbs are out and I found the breathing problem
right away.


The left hand slider isn't sliding. Well it wasn't but it is now and
very gritty it feels so that is the carbs coming only half to bits which
is a bonus. I am halfway tempted to ditch the air filter and go for a
set of poseur KN ones but this always seems to involved rejetting the
**** so in the absence of any tuning expertise around these parts with
knowledge of tweaking the bored out middle two pots of an *old* 750/4, I
will probably settle for the tried and tested bodge of a couple of pot
scourers and a tie wrap or two and see how that goes.

 

www.ratemydate.com seems to be available...

--
Krusty.

http://www.muddystuff.co.uk
http://www.muddystuff.us
Off-road classifieds

'02 MV Senna '03 Tiger (FOYRNB) '96 Tiger '79 Fantic 250

 

Krusty wrote

dot com!! Do **** off. Is .co.uk going?

 

No. In fact .com isn't either - just doesn't do anything. Several other
options though - www.uk2.net

--
Krusty.

http://www.muddystuff.co.uk
http://www.muddystuff.us
Off-road classifieds

'02 MV Senna '03 Tiger (FOYRNB) '96 Tiger '79 Fantic 250

 

Muck wrote

Given today's chemicals you could easily lose your money. Loz will tell
you roughly how many miles his bindit has done since he "glued" the
crankcase together and sent it on it's little journey to have the nuts
thrashed off it by the likes of WC, Aidie and myself. I know of a
Thundercat which has more chemicals round the clutch operating lever
mechanism than metal and I also know the bloke who rides it most and he
does his best to abuse it as often as he can and has done so for about
three years now since he fixed it.


Mind you I also know that neither of them "just bunged a bit of puddin'
in the hole". Which is probably what makes the difference.

 

For sure, if I want an utterly permanent repair I would use Lumiweld or
similar, but previous encounters with Chemical Metal and suchlike have
worked out well. One sump repair is still holding some 15 years later -
it being temporary until that engine came out of the frame and that
hasn't happened yet.