37 Years.

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Krusty, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    That's how long I've been riding bikes, & in all that time I've never
    had to replace any brake seals. But now I do. Any tips? They're Nissin
    twin-pots if that makes a difference.
     
    Krusty, Jan 3, 2010
    #1
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  2. Krusty

    Lozzo Guest

    Invest in a sachet or two of red rubber grease and smear that lightly
    into the grooves after cleaning them out with a Dremel and as fine a
    wire brush as you can get away with. From there on only use brake fluid
    as a lubricant.
     
    Lozzo, Jan 3, 2010
    #2
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  3. I had a bit of a baptism of fire when I managed to pop a piston out of
    a Tokico 6-pot last year. Rebuild went fine, got 'em very clean,
    pistons all went back in with a bit of brake fluid as lube. Took a
    while, mind.
     
    Sean Hamerton, Jan 3, 2010
    #3
  4. Krusty

    Simon Wilson Guest

    Use the brake lever/pedal to push the pistons out before you disconnect
    all the plumbing. Or use an airline to blow the pistons out afterwards
    but be careful.

    Take a bt of care when you're pushing the pistons back in because if
    they have sharp edges they can slice a bit of seal off. DAMHIK.

    + 1 Wot Lozzo says - I've got a big pot of red grease around somewhere
    if you need any.
     
    Simon Wilson, Jan 3, 2010
    #4
  5. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    I cleaned them all up earlier, greased the pins & slid the pistons in &
    out a bit to see if that helped, but no joy - I've got a bike with a
    parking brake.
    They seem fine, other than having Nige's Knob Syndrome[1]
    A who-what?
    So no jiz then?

    [1] Refuse to slide back inside.
     
    Krusty, Jan 3, 2010
    #5
  6. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    Think I've got some of those somewhere.
    Ah good, so there is a need for power tools then.
     
    Krusty, Jan 3, 2010
    #6
  7. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    That was plan A.
    And that was plan B.
    Think I've got some sachets, but thanks anyway.
     
    Krusty, Jan 3, 2010
    #7
  8. Krusty

    mark Guest

    What about that red stuff?
     
    mark, Jan 3, 2010
    #8
  9. Krusty

    Lozzo Guest

    It's very unusual for Nissins to need a rotary wire brush because the
    bodies of the calipers seems to be hard anodised throughout on all the
    Nissins I've worked on. If they were Tokicos I'd be buying three or
    four wire brushes before I took the things apart because you know
    they'll be full of alloy-fur and grunge.
     
    Lozzo, Jan 3, 2010
    #9
  10. On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:40:39 +0100, Simon Wilson

    [...]
    A grease gun should also work and there's less chance of any colourful
    mishaps then with pressurised air. ;-)
     
    Leszek Karlik, Jan 4, 2010
    #10
  11. Krusty

    Catman Guest

    THe colour in question being red I expect ;)

    --
    Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
    Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
    116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 GTV TS GT 3.2 V6
    Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
    www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
     
    Catman, Jan 4, 2010
    #11
  12. Krusty

    ian field Guest

    Silicone grease is a suitable lubricant, its water repellent and seals
    against corrosion. Maplin usually stock it, as should any electronic parts
    supplier.

    For floating calliper slide pins and any other moving parts not in contact
    with any braking system rubber parts - finish line Teflon fortified bicycle
    grease works wonders. It used to come in 100g tubes for about £6 but they
    changed it to a more expensive aerosol dispenser, last time I bought any was
    a 1.8kg tub for about £35.
     
    ian field, Jan 4, 2010
    #12
  13. Krusty

    ian field Guest

    A few G-clamps can come in handy if you have multiple pistons.

    Pump the brake and see which piston gets away the free'est, G-clamp that one
    back in so you can pump out any pistons that are less eager to move.
     
    ian field, Jan 4, 2010
    #13
  14. Krusty

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    It's just about coarse enough to polish aluminium but as a close
    finisher it's unbeatable. We used to use it for fine tuning 3D wing
    section leading edges when I worked in the wind tunnel industry and
    everything had to be spot on.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Jan 11, 2010
    #14
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