66 Triumph 650 clutch sticking

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Technical Discussion' started by Wm. Chapman, May 19, 2005.

  1. Wm. Chapman

    Wm. Chapman Guest

    Recently rebuilt my clutch. Now I can't seem to get it adjusted to
    eliminate scraping going from neutral to first. I've had the primary cover
    off five times now, de-burred all the tabs, checked grooves in clutch basket
    for wear[ok], adjusted clutch nuts looser and tighter, carefully checked for
    even rotation, tried auto trans fluid [currently have 5w/20 oil], adjusted
    the free play etc at handle and at primary inspection hole all sorts of
    ways, still scraping. I can minimize by kicking thru in 1st gear with
    clutch out before starting a few times. Any suggestions Greatly appreciated
    !!! Thanks, BC
     
    Wm. Chapman, May 19, 2005
    #1
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  2. By "scraping", do you mean that you hear a a rapid gear clattering,
    grinding sound from the gear dogs?

    Try turning your idle speed down as low as possible, This might mean
    readjusting the idle mixture as well...

    My friend's Greeves wouldn't shift gears at all without grinding unless
    he turned the idle down as low as possible. Every gear shift required
    reducing engine RPM to idle, powershifting would not work at all...
     
    krusty kritter, May 19, 2005
    #2
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  3. Wm. Chapman

    Wm. Chapman Guest

    I'll try that, but need to keep some rpm going to keep the battery charged.
    Med. idle speed drops charging to 11.5 v. This is pretty much the sound
    you'd get trying to go from neutral to 1st with no clutch. Plates are
    definately sticking together. Thanks for the reply... BC
     
    Wm. Chapman, May 19, 2005
    #3
  4. charged. Med. idle speed drops charging to 11.5 v.

    So, don't let the engine idle. You wouldn't be riding at an idle, just
    shifting gears, then you'd be riding at a higher RPM...

    Your lights might get very dim while waiting for a traffic signal to
    change.
    Somebody was just mentioning last week that later alternators had more
    windings to solve this problem. The other alternative would be stronger
    flywheel magnets...
     
    krusty kritter, May 19, 2005
    #4
  5. Wm. Chapman

    les Guest

    Adjusting the clutch nuts only affects how well the clutch grabs. This has
    no affect on your problem.

    Explain step by step how you're adjusting it... It'll help a great deal i
    finding the problem.

    Les
     
    les, May 20, 2005
    #5
  6. Wm. Chapman

    Wm. Chapman Guest

    Hi Les.. I have all the manuals.. factory Triumph shop, Haynes, and the DVD
    by [name I can't recall], and I've read over everything I can find online
    pertaining to this, which all basically say to loosen the cable at the
    lever, and back out the adjuster bolt/nut then tighten 'til the plate just
    begins to lift, then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock down. I've spent a
    lot of time pouring over all the manual instructions etc. and have adjusted
    all this many times and many ways, tighter and looser. I have removed all
    the plates several times... checking on a plate of glass for flatness.
    I've carefully de-burred all the plate tabs, I've checked the grooves in
    the clutch basket for wear etc. I've just read a bunch of stuff in groups
    archives and British Only's archives that's leading me to think that with
    stock type Barnett plates etc. that some of this problem is just inherent
    and may have to be lived with, but I'm still open to further suggestions.
    Thanks, BC
     
    Wm. Chapman, May 20, 2005
    #6
  7. Wm. Chapman

    Fred Stacey Guest

    I always did this on the old brit iron I've owned.
    It breaks the stiction between the plates.

    Fred
     
    Fred Stacey, May 20, 2005
    #7
  8. Wm. Chapman

    les Guest

    Haynes calls for the adjuster for the pushrod to be backed out 1 full turn,
    not 1/4 to 1/2. If you've adjusted it this way, my guess is you've had it
    too tight, letting the pushrod spin. This will shorten the rod over time, as
    well as trash the bronze bushing in the right side end of the main shaft.
    Mine only does this when first started, after not being ridden for some
    time. Proper adjustment and good parts will eliminate this with a warm
    engine.

    Les
     
    les, May 21, 2005
    #8
  9. Wm. Chapman

    Wm. Chapman Guest

    Thanks Les I'll try 1 full turn out and see how it goes. BC
     
    Wm. Chapman, May 23, 2005
    #9
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