And the scary job of the day was...

.... hammering on the impact screwdriver to undo the lhs switch block on
the Ducati, about 1/2" away from the fragile fibreglass fairing.

I think that was the oddest part that I've discovered traces of
gorilla-wivva-toothache.

Anyway, the Ducati is now mirrorless, sports the correct handlebar
rubber on the lhs (looks proper uncomfy, too) and the lhs switchgear is
properly aligned, too...

 

Get yourself a proper air driven impact driver as used by the tyre
companies on wheelnuts. Just take care to adjust it down a tad on
thinner bolts.
A _very_ usefull weapon.

Those cheap hammered impart drivers are a damn menace.

 

I tried that first, although I used a dab of metal polish instead to
increase the friction.

That's where the gorilla-wivva-toothache came in, it didn't want to
move at all...

 

Polish to increase the friction??

Martin

 

Similar effect to grinding paste if you use one that's coarse enough.
That's why it's abrasive - what do you think grinding paste does
different from polish?

Oh, and have a look at the FAQ regarding properly quoting an snipping
sigs.

 

Grinding paste does what it's called, grind or cut into, thereby cutting
into and causing friction if the carborundum is not removed, what do *you*
think?
Most polishes use chemicals to remove metal making the surfaces smoother
therefore less friction. Still can't beat that impact driver though, got
one of those in late 50s when I think they introduced those Phillips screws,
couldn't get the damn things to move without.

Just going to have a look now to see what I've done wrong, apologies may be
in order.

Martin

 

They may use chemicals _as_well_, but most polishes I've encountered
use very fine abrasive particles.

 

I must have an expensive one, then. Cost me between six and seven quid
in about 1979. Been used constantly ever since and is one of the best
and most effective tools in my armoury.

 

Yup, and coarse polishing paste does that as well...

Yes, I see what you mean when it comes to the normal stuff. God knows
where I got the coarse stuff from, though. It probably is fine valve
grinding paste...

Indeed. Very helpful in this case.

No worries, you got it right this time

 

*ding*

 

"My chief weapon is surprise. And a cheap impact driver. My two chief
weapons are surprise, a cheap impact driver, and a great big hammer. My
three chief weapons..."

 

A 4 pound lump hammer hitting something with a strong spring is a recipe
for damage when it bounces. When the damage was to a perfectly good pair
of bifocals and my nose the damned thing was thrown a _long_ way and
never seen again.

 

If you elaborate a bit more, TOG may even add a number to that damage...

 

Thus spake Chris Newport () unto the assembled multitudes:

What's that thing they say about a bad workman blaming his tools? It might
have helped if you'd kept your face out of the way, as is the usual
commonsense custom when applying force with tools. I've had the same
impact driver since 1976 and have never suffered any breakage or injury.

 

wrote

I have had one longer than that and all I ever done to hurt myself was
not hold it hard enough.

 

I've had several (admittedly, not expensive) and they've been a universal
waste of money.

 

I've had one since 1872[1] & mainly use it for screws that just need
the extra torque of a fat grip rather than 'itting wiv an 'ammer.

[1] Not really.

--
Krusty
www.MuddyStuff.co.uk
Off-Road Classifieds

'02 MV Senna '03 Tiger 955i '96 Tiger '79 Fantic Hiro 250

 

That's a crafty idea!

By way of exchange, The Domestic Controller got a kitchen micro-blowlamp
from Father Christmas a couple of years ago (can't think why, as she
almost never does broulée...). Works a treat on bolt heads, but you
can't use it in all circumstances though, obviously. Difficult bit is
getting it back into the drawer undetected.

Regards,

Simonm.

 

I've got two, and the more useful one by far is the el-cheapo one with
long reach bits. It's not 1/2" drive though and does tend to disassemble
itself when clobbered enough, but it works.

Philips screws are the spawn of Satan. Pozi are bad enough, but they
don't seem to strip as easily. What on earth possessed them to keep
using Philips - do they work better in auto-feed?


Regards,

Simonm.

 

Maybe it's only the cheap ones, but they do require careful technique:

1) make sure the driver's fully twisted in the right direction. Gawd
knows why they're bi-directional. I've never encountered a left-hand
screw. Nuts, yes; never screws.

My impact driver will damage itself if not fully twisted; there's a
cup that a ball bearing sits in that gets crushed out of shape,
causing it to jam.

2) apply driver to screw and wiggle so that the bit is firmly seated.

3) push in a bit against the spring, twist in the desired direction
and at the same time press in firmly until the slack is taken up in
the cam

4) hit it optimistically gently

5) hit it a bit harder

6) HIT it

7) shift grip; wiggle bit more firmly into slot; repeat 2) & 3)

8) *SMACK* it one

By now either the screw will be loose or its head will have a
cone-shaped hole in it.

Actually, I can't remember the last time I needed to use an impact
driver. Oh, the TL's front mudguard screws: still welded to the fork
legs because getting the mudguard off wasn't sufficiently important.