Any one else ever seen this ?

My 84 Goldwing evidently has a bad float or needle in on of the left side
carbs. After it's shut off it will drip a small puddle of gas out the bottom
of the exhaust pipe. Seems to be running into the crank case also and
diluting the oil. Just wondered if anyone else has run into this . Kind of
thinking the alky in the gas nowadays is attacking some components. Just
bending some ears...

 

Just wondered if anyone else has run into this .

Yes.

The additives may be eating up the rubber parts, or the gasoline may
be evaporating and causing the float valves to stick from gum and
varnish buildup.

I add Stabil to a full tank of gasoline before storing my bike for the
winter, and I run 4 or 5 ounces of Berryman B12 Choke and Carburetor
Cleaner through a full tank of gasoline in the spring.

If B12 doesn't solve the problem, you may need to disassemble the
carbs and examine the float valve seat. The tiniest bit of gum and
varnish can keep the float valve from seating.

Sometimes it's necessary to stick a piece of crocus cloth on the end
of a small
rod or perhaps a 1/8th inch drill and use that to clean the float
valve seat.

If all else fails, you can mail order new float valve parts from:

www.carbkitscapital.com

www.flatoutmotorcycles.com

www.powersportspro.com

www.bikebandit.com

www.oldbikebarn.com

 

I wouldn't worry about modern fuel rotting the components, whatever
Krusty says. I've never known it to happen (fuel companies do test their
fuels, amazingly enough).

Likewise, it's very unlikely to be gummed carbs unless the bike has been
laid up for ages, and even then, the float assemblies are the last
things to gum up, in my experience.

So, you've almost certainly got a leaking float valve. Sometimes the
float valves just stick on Hondas of this generation (and earlier).
Tapping the carb body with a tool is often enough to free them.

However, there's a photo-essay article in the very latest Classic Bike
(UK magazine) whch details this very problem on some old Hondas.

The culprit is a little rubber O-ring which seals the float valve
housing into the carb body. With the passage of time, this hardens and
lets fuel through, even though the float has actually operated and shut
off the valve.

These little O-rings are surprisingly costly, especially if you want to
do a bank of carbs. However, the seat can be removed (it's just a
push-fit) and a *very* small dab of gasket sealer around the O-ring is
enough to make it fuel-tight again. Cost effectively zero.

The article shows the whole thing, step by step, with pictures.

I'm afraid Krusty didn't refer to this because it's not something he
knows about, unless he's read ther article in question. I must say I
didn't know about these seals until someone brought it to my attention.

If I'm feeling charitable, I suppose I could do a hi-res scan of the
article and stick it on a web page for you.

 

On older BMWs the floats need occasional
replacement. Not sure why, but they begin
to admit too much gas in exactly this way.

I replaced the floats on mine recently. While I
was at it, I took a mototool and scribed a couple
marks on the inside of the float bowl to make
it easier to adjust and check the float height
when I have the bowl off.

Could also be a problem with the float needle
or just a hunk of crud preventing the float
from seating correctly. Check for both of these
when you pull the float bowl.

 

Suck.

My.

Dick.

 

Do you ask everyone to do this?

 

Just you, princess.

 

Well you know how that chickehawk is, desperate because he can't bend
that far.

OBTW thanks for the heads up on that O ring. Though mine carbs haven't
had to be apart since new...in 1979.

 

Thanks guys for the ideas , I'm getting ready to tear into the carbs . I'll
let ya know what I found. Runk.....
Just wondered if anyone else has run into this .

Yes.

The additives may be eating up the rubber parts, or the gasoline may
be evaporating and causing the float valves to stick from gum and
varnish buildup.

I add Stabil to a full tank of gasoline before storing my bike for the
winter, and I run 4 or 5 ounces of Berryman B12 Choke and Carburetor
Cleaner through a full tank of gasoline in the spring.

If B12 doesn't solve the problem, you may need to disassemble the
carbs and examine the float valve seat. The tiniest bit of gum and
varnish can keep the float valve from seating.

Sometimes it's necessary to stick a piece of crocus cloth on the end
of a small
rod or perhaps a 1/8th inch drill and use that to clean the float
valve seat.

If all else fails, you can mail order new float valve parts from:

www.carbkitscapital.com

www.flatoutmotorcycles.com

www.powersportspro.com

www.bikebandit.com

www.oldbikebarn.com

 

Nor mine, on the 400, since new in 1977. Beat ya!

Though one carb is mildly incontinent. But there's a manual fuel tap and
turning the fuel off when parked an easier option for the moment.

 

Agreed. I might get Raddak's rebuild kit and do mine, along with
following his optimization procedures. It only gets 30mpg at sea level
OR in the mountains a mile high plus. It can/should get around 40mpg
in theory. Then again haven't I been considering this for years? Oh
well it's running fine so what the heck.

 

An anthem for our times )

 

Especially on vehicles that have NEVER had the carbs off! Oh sure the
carbs have been balanced as needed but other than that, well those old
Kehein's just keep on doing their jobs. 8^))

Don't futz with it if it aint broke! A mantra for the ages.