Arse. Rotten tank

I welded a tank up once many years ago. I really, really thought I'd
cleaned evry last vestige of fuel out by using hot water and detergent
and I'd cut the bottom of both sides - completely rotten.. I left it
like that for at least a couple of hours for any last vapour to
evaporate.

I did have the sense to leave the filler cap open, which was just as
well. They make a very loud sort of 'FOOM' when the vapour explodes.

 

They can be amateurely purged too y'know. Tanks have no idea who's purging
them, or what with.

 

Next time (if there ever is a next time), shove a tube over the exhasut of
your car and put t'other end in the tank of be bike. Start motor and leave
for half an hour.

There will be purging ahead.

 

As I understand the "theory" behind this, one is supposed to keep the
tank full to avoid condensation, and rust. That said, in practice I
always seem to forget to top up my tanks before winter lay-up. However,
considering you have had your SS from new; any comments on whether
you've tried to keep the tank full during winter, or left it as is?

If you desperately need a working tank for some days, e.g. a French run,
let me know. It might not need mine.

 

Use Google Chrome; it will translate automatically (admittedly a machine
translation but close enough.)

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Champ

Taste good, did it?

 

Left as is, unfortunately.

 

Perfect. YHM.

 

Well, for about US$2000 including paint and postage but not duty, I
could have this

http://www.eti-fuelcel.com/DUCATI900SSPRE.HTML

 

Could be worth a post on here:
http://www.ducatisti.co.uk/classified/
Steve

 

(ts) gurgled happily, sounding much like
they were saying:

If the top of the tank had rotted out, I could see how that theory might
make a difference.

But since the bottom of the tank has rotted out... unless the bike's been
stored upside-down over the winter?

 

My car's a diesel....

I do have argon, so I'd use that nowadays.

 

Condensate will eventually drip into the fuel. Water is denser than
petrol.

 

Some people say that it doesn't matter if there's condensate at the
bottom of the tank, as it's covered by petrol and the air can't get at
it, so it won't cause corrosion.

My answer to that is: "So sunken ships don't rust, then?"

 

(The Older Gentleman) gurgled happily,
sounding much like they were saying:

The condensation in your tank is saline?

 

You could add that "Fish don't exist, because the oxygen does not reach
down to where they live".

I1ve been led to believe[1] that the "lead replacement" chemicals
contains potassium compounds. This metal is as far as I know not well
known to bond chemically with organic molecules, but remain as a highly
soluble (in water) cation. So, could LRP be more aggressive when it
comes to induce corrosion of steel petrol tanks?

If petrol companies forked out to compensate for burnt-out valves after
having introduced their first-generation LRP, one could perhaps sue them
to compensate for corroded petrol tanks . . .

[1]by petrol station till staff[2]
[2]and brochures they may be given to hand out

 

If it's just brazing, Alphas Welding in Bensham Lane, Thornton Heath.

 

Winter storage is probably irrelevant.
All fuel contains a small amount of water which settles out to the bottom
of the tank, which is why fuel is taken from about half an inch from the
bottom. All tanks will have a small layer of water in the botton which
gradually gets deeper after each fill. When the bike is ridden some of
the water gets shaken up into suspension in the fuel and passes harmlessly
through the carbs. The remainder settles out again overnight.

 

And ships sunk in fresh water don't rust either?

 

Looks more serious than that. At least half a dozen spots visible,
almost certainly more yet to break through.