Attaching Scotoiler tube to the swingarm.

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by toad_oftoadhall, Jun 30, 2006.

  1. I'm currently using cable ties to attach the scotoiler oil tube to the
    swingarm.

    I've got some little rubber counduit 'things' that you glue to the
    swingarm. What's the best glue to use? Priority is that it mustn't
    damage the swing arm coating and that it must stay on but come of
    fairly easily when the time comes.

    Alternative is use a few big elastic bands - they will hold it nicely
    but can be shifted for cleaning purposes.

    We're talking about a B12 by the way.
     
    toad_oftoadhall, Jun 30, 2006
    #1
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  2. toad_oftoadhall

    Krusty Guest

    Scottoiler recommend using epoxy resin or similar & cable ties, which
    wipes out your "come off fairly easily" requirement. I use double-sided
    foam sticky pads plus cable ties.


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    Krusty, Jun 30, 2006
    #2
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  3. toad_oftoadhall

    Mike Barnard Guest

    When I put an oiler on my TL thou I couldn't get the plastic tube to
    stick. Then I went into a model suppliers, {1}, I got some narrow
    brass tube. I ran it along the bottom of the swing arm, gently bent
    it to shape and it looked really neat. It took the epoxy well, too.

    {1]Not the catwalk variety unfortunately.
     
    Mike Barnard, Jun 30, 2006
    #3
  4. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    That leaves double sided tape then.


    --
    Beav

    VN 750
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    Beav, Jun 30, 2006
    #4
  5. toad_oftoadhall

    Pip Guest

    Sticky Fixers.
     
    Pip, Jun 30, 2006
    #5
  6. toad_oftoadhall

    SD Guest

    Ooh. Sounds like just the stuff to reattach the chrome trim to the
    pannier on the Wing.

    Halfords? 'spensive?
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    SD, Jun 30, 2006
    #6
  7. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    I thought of another wonderful material. Sikoflex. Used to bond shite
    strewth kits to chavmobiles. It never goes truly hard (a bit like a...ah
    forget it:) and with little thinners on a rag, it's not impossible to
    remove without damaging the paintwork.

    If it's Sikoflexed, it's there for eternity too, unless you choose
    otherwise.


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    Beav

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    Beav, Jun 30, 2006
    #7
  8. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    On the subject of Snottoilers, I went to buy one today for the Zed. First
    shop only had the touring version (bigger reservoir and too bulky) and
    wanted 105 bastard quid for it. List price everywhere else seems to be about
    92.

    Next shop had the normal (Version 7) which retails for around 69 quid. They
    quoted 95. I said they weren't THAT fucking much so he said he could do it
    for 75. I said "So you were trying to get an extra 20 quid off me then
    realised it wasn't going to happen so you drop the price. Now try dropping
    it to the list price of 69". He said he can probably go to that. **** both
    of them, and I'll buy it on-line.


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    Beav

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    Beav, Jun 30, 2006
    #8
  9. toad_oftoadhall

    Eiron Guest

    Quick-setting Araldite will soften in boiling water and can be scraped off.
    A useful property for temporary joints.
     
    Eiron, Jul 1, 2006
    #9
  10. toad_oftoadhall

    Krusty Guest

    Yebbut how do you soak the bottom of a swingarm in boiling water
    without removing it (which isn't "fairly easy")?



    --
    Krusty.

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    Krusty, Jul 1, 2006
    #10
  11. toad_oftoadhall

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    A hot air gun such as can be used to soften paint will do the trick.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Jul 1, 2006
    #11
  12. toad_oftoadhall

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    You're trying to wind him up aren't you?
     
    Andy Bonwick, Jul 1, 2006
    #12
  13. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    I've used Araldite to repair exhaust systems on my RC heli's and I've yet to
    have one soften with heat. And they get a damned sight hottter than boiling
    water too.

    Quick setting Araldite actually gets brittle with heat and with age.


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    Beav

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    Beav, Jul 1, 2006
    #13
  14. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    Not Halfords, but any paint shop suppliers should have it. Not uber cheap
    (and if you don't empty the tube, but the remainder in the fridge) at around
    a tenner, but it's better than any of the copies (bathtub sealant for a
    start). It can be painted too, where silicon sealants can't.


    --
    Beav

    VN 750
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    Beav, Jul 1, 2006
    #14
  15. toad_oftoadhall

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    We used to use normal 'household' araldite for fixing pressure
    plotting tubes into wind tunnel models and the only way to get at a
    leaking tube was to use the hot air gun to destroy the bond between
    the model and the araldite. Once it had changed colour we just hooked
    the araldite out with a blunt screwdriver and avoided fucking up the
    other tubes in the same area.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Jul 1, 2006
    #15
  16. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    Ahh, must be a diffferent stuff to the industrial. Mind you, that's not
    surprising, coz when I first got hold of "superglue" it was fucking lethal.
    That was Pacer Industries stuff and wasn't generally available to the
    public, but when it became an OTC product, it'd lost a lot of its initial
    grab and some of its strength too.

    A pal of mine glued two bits of plastic with the original Pacer stuff and
    blew on the joint. It forced a tiny drop onto his eye and when he blinked,
    his eye wouldn't open. It took nearly 3 weeks for the "eye juice" to break
    the bond and no-one at the hspital would even try to break it.
    None of the CA glues are like that anymore. More's the pity. I suppose a lot
    of the epoxies are the same, as epoxies (being a bit of a cancer causer) are
    definitley getting weaker.



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    Beav

    VN 750
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    Beav, Jul 2, 2006
    #16
  17. toad_oftoadhall

    Beav Guest

    Dickhead I am, that should be PUT the remainder in the fridge.

    What a cuntish trick THAT was.


    --
    Beav

    VN 750
    Zed 1000
    OMF# 19
     
    Beav, Jul 2, 2006
    #17
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