Auto electrician required

Looking at the pic that Pete put up, I'd say remove both the
antenna and the immobiliser amplifier, as both of these components
shouldn't be needed with either an unlocked (ie, US) or race ECU.

I expect that the immobilizer "amplifier" is stopping the ECU from
running over the bike by putting it into a diagnostics mode, hence
the dual purpose of the port. By unplugging it and leaving it
free it may let it run...

 

took a blunt brush and painted...

Nice, those should be all that are needed. I'll print them off this weekend
and try to come up with something.

Just to summarise:-

Race loom/engine/ECU/key/barrel start and run fine.

UK loom/engine/ECU/key/barrel start and run fine.

UK loom and race engine/ECU/barrel/key turn over but do not start?

I've just seen what my 10R does when you turn key (I know its different year
but will be a good basis to start from)

Turn key.
(1/8~1/4 second delay)
Click from relay.
Speedo needle starts it sweep from 0 to max.
(1/4 second delay)
Electro-mechanical noises from actuators being cycled / tested.
(I'm guessing this is something like manifold / exhaust valves, what it is
isn't important at the mo, its just the ECU making sure everything it is
supposed to be able to move / control, can be)
Speedo needle completed sweep and digital speedo goes to 0.

The fuel pump might start whirring away but my cotton ears couldn't hear it.

I'm guessing your road bike (as standard) will do all that lot in about the
same order?

What did the race bike do?

What does the road bike with race engine/ECU/barrel/key do?

 

took a blunt brush and painted...

Interesting.

As the race ECU obviously doesn't care about any of the the immobiliser
gubbins I guess you'll be wanting a little bit of re-wiring to ditch the kill
switch and put the ignition barrel in its place so you have at least some
rudimentary security in place?

(oh to have a bike with no alarm / immobiliser / flat battery headaches, you
lucky sod you


But that'll be easy to do after its running.

 

Have you mailed kawasaki UK at all? They might know the answer, or be
able to forward the question to an angineer back at the mothership.
Presumably all the parts involved are genuine kawasaki.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to have someone read and download the map on the
kit ECU and then transfer the data across to your road one?

 

took a blunt brush and painted...

Oh yes, I realise that.

What I was inferring to is the fact a road ECU has a "standy live feed" to
power the alarm circuitry (so it can detect you turning it off).

The race ECU might internally have that standy live pin simply not connected
(very likely), or connected straight to the ignition switched live (not
likely but I wouldn't discount it completely). No way of knowing until its
otherwise working.

If its the latter, once the bike is running on the race ECU, don't be too
suprised if its possible to bump start the bike without a key (the standy
live going into the ECU powers the rest of the ECU).

Not a problem, just requires removing that standy live feed completely or
wiring it to the switched side of the ignition switch.

 

I'm pretty sure that if if someone programmed it, then someone else can
reprogramme it. There's got to be someone who can do this.

 

took a blunt brush and painted...

Depends how its been made.

Compare EEPROM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM
with PROM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_read-only_memory

Former can be updated many times. Latter can only be programmed once.

Even with the EEPROM the rest of the ECU needs to support programming it,
else you've got to whip the ECU out, expose the EEPROM, clip to all the pins
and update it that way.


I wonder what manufacturers opinions on third party companies uploading
different programs to any ECU are?

I guess some don't mind at all, but make it clear that if you change the
program you loose all warranty, but only if they've got some way of telling
the program has been changed from original, even if the original program was
put back after whatever went wrong.

 

Completely irrellevant I know but the GSXR ECU is programmable. EvoMoto
did some work on my bike and managed to eek a couple more HP out of the
bike as well as making the power curve smoother with nothing more than
an end can and the stock ECU.
--
Gavin.

GSXR600K1
Twitter: http://twitter.com/gavin_wilby
Blog: http://www.stoof.co.uk

 

I asked that question and was told that I'd have to add bits before I
could do the equivalent of mess with the ECU. Apparently it's just not
an option, no matter how good a tuner you are.

 

OK, in that case, surely the addition of a PowerCommander will allow
the modification in mapping to suit the engine characteristics Champ is
after. Rather than retuning the existing ECU, change the map via the
PC3 or 4

 

Champ,

I've had a good look at the US, race and non-US diagrams.

Could you try this:-

Remove the Immobiliser Amplifier.

Get a short piece of wire and connect the BL/R and BK wires on the socket
that the Immobiliser Amp plugs into.

(BL/R = Blue with red stripe, BK = Black)

According to the "Other than US/Camada and Kuwait" diagram these are on the
right hand side of the socket with one unused pin between them.

(on the XPS diagram they're still on the RHS of the socket but the unused pin
isn't there, BUT the colours are still the same and they are the same wires).



The race ECU has 0V fed into 4 pins, 12V comes into 6 pins. The road loom
supplies 0V on 3 of the 4 pins, the fourth being the BL/R wire going to the
Immobiliser amplifier.

The road loom provides all the 12V feeds (although one of them is slighlty
different, its hard wired to 12V while on the race loom its only fed 12V when
the starter button is pressed).



Let me know if that works.




frag


P.S. to any tealeaves out there, this will NOT work with a road ECU - the
road ECU has immobiliser circuitry built into it and simply won't do anything
unless it sees the matched chipped ignition key. Tough

 

Yep, a Power Commander is definitely Plan B. However, a PC can't
adjust the ignition advance/retard, whereas the kit ECU can. And it
just a 'nicer' solution to have the kit ECU decide on the correct
fuelling in the first place than have the road one get it wrong and
then the PC corrects it afterwards - tho I know it does it in
milliseconds.

Ao, if I can't make it work, I'll get a PC. But it's frustrating, cos
there's no logical reason why I shouldn't be able to make it work.

 

Are there any aftermarket ignition advancers available, or does the kit
ECU constantly adjust to suit.

 

Apparently their aftermarket ig advancers, but getting them to work
reliably with the PC is a pain in the arse. The beauty of the kit WCU
is that it does fuel and ignition at the same time in the same box.

I'm just off out to the garage agian with my multi meter...

 

I'm finding typing left handed rather difficult.

Working on bikes ain't much easier...

 

No luck then?

 

took a blunt brush and painted...

I suppose it'll take a little time to even find where that Immobiliser Amp
is.

Should take 5 mins to try my suggestion though. Bent paper clips at the
ready.

 

Nah, that was found long ago.

Lockwire was the tool of choice, especially for fucking up connectors...

<stares at feet>

 

I'm just off out to the garage agian with my multi meter...

I spent the best part 3 hours just documenting the voltages on the
pinouts on the road ECU. Tomorrow, the kit ECU...