Bloody weather

I'm happy*ish* with the Oxford bar muffs I've got but they seem to die
after about two years of over winter use which seems a little on the
light side really.

 

says...

I should have worded that better, I meant Oxford heated grips, not all
Oxford Products ranges. On top of my wardrobe is a full set of Oxford
Products Sports luggage that I've had for a few years now, and I cannot
fault it. It's been overloaded, abused and generally treated like shit,
but it still looks like new and does everything expected of it.

 

How to undo the exercise benefit from your running down dark lanes in
one easy step.

Even I (as a fat lump) refuse to start buying those things - I know I'd
be on a losing streak if I started. I have had a couple of them when
people have brought them into the office as celebratory eats and I find
them almost too sweet.

 

Ah, but the exercise isn't for weight control purposes it's training for
a half marathon.

They're fantastic.

I'm craving carbs and sugars furiously at the moment. Probably because
I'm burning more than 4000 calories a week with my running. >1000
calories this morning on the weekly 'long run' which was 8 miles, done
in 1 hour 5 minutes. The same route took me 1 hour 11 minutes four
weeks ago so I'm getting faster but maybe not fast enough, I need to get
this down to about an hour to achieve my target time.

I think that faster than 1:39 for the half marathon is going to be
*hard* work to achieve but I've not *yet* ruled it out. It all depends
on my not injuring myself and at the moment my calves feel right on the
edge and *could* cause problems... roll on the ibuprofen!

I'll be happy if I complete in 1:50 (he lied)

 

Ditto, but rather than my previous routes via Watford or Elstree &
Borehamwood, I think I'll be using darsy's recommendation of Cockfosters
in future, 'cause the parking is better.

 

well I used to use the car park at Osterleigh since it was convenient
but the downside was it's a fucking long way out on the tube. HEX is
best by a longway, if a little expensive.

 

And you get a better class of driver?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Lozzo

Yep, they were OK. The first set packed up, but were replaced under
warranty. Funnily enough, I found the missing one this weekend.

Oi! DnC! D'you want it? It's part of the ZZR11 deal, so it's yours.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Podium Placed Ducati Race Engineer as featured in
Performance Bikes and Fast Bikes

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (Falling apart) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha Vmax Honda ST1100 wiv trailer

 

They make the grips very fat. I've got hands like dinner plates, and
found them awkward to use.

What is it, a AA cell or summat? Total loss system?
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG*
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11
'^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000

 

Hmmm, thing is, I don't want the hassle of a permanent solution, given
that I rarely go out on it when the temp. is under 10 degrees.

It all adds up - sat. nav., iPod, heated grips, 2 x whatever watts
headlamp bulbs etc.

The battery in it looks a bit pathetic, really.

 

SteveH says...

The proper heated grips just take as much fitting as the wrap around
type. You've got the same amount of connections to be made into the
wiring loom and the same amount of cables running up to the bars and
switch. All that's different is you need to swop the grips themselves
over, which takes 10 minutes.

Proper heated grips look like they're meant to be there and don't feel
too fat when you're riding.

 

Maybe, but shawly it'll be drawing power off the alternator?

A quick google suggests it puts out 470W. Plenty.
--
| ___ Salad Dodger
|/ \
_/_____\_ GL1500SEV/CBR1100XXX/CBX1000Z
|_\_____/_| ..87918../..23274.../..31893.
(>|_|_|<) TPPFATUICG#7 DIAABTCOD#9 WG*
|__|_|__| BOTAFOT #70 BOTAFOF #09 PM#5
\ |^| / IbW#0 & KotIbW# BotTOS#6 GP#4
\|^|/ ANORAK#17 IbB#4 YTC#4 two#11
'^' RBR Clues: 00 Pts:0000 Miles:0000

 

Loom!?

I was just going to stick 'em on an inline fuse connected straight to
the battery.....

 

(SteveH) wrote in

Battery size is irrelevant except for starting. Alternator output is the
key to being able to run lots of accessories and restore the battery to
start the bike next time.

Oh, and you need to take it over 3000 rpm to get the alternator working
properly....

 

I'm fucked, then ;-)

 

SteveH says...

Great, until you forget to switch them off and the battery is fucked
next time you go to start it, or some fucking kid switches them on while
you're away from the bike.

 

I think the horn provides a convenient +12v switched supply in many
cases; or at least it's one I've used. Like you I'd not use an
unswitched supply since I'd forget about switching them off.

Unlike you I'd rely on the superior Teutonic heaters fitted to my BMW.

'course that would be more likely to be the climate control variety than
poxy heated grips...

 

says...

I think you mean negative switched, much the same as interior lights on
most cars. Power permanently at the bulb, which is switched by
completing the earth side of the circuit.

I tried to connect into the horn circuit on the Bindits, but my old
model and Tori's new model are both switched in the positive, meaning
there's no power at all until the button is pushed.

 

I meant there was a convenient +12v switched by the ignition rather than
commenting on how the horn was actuated.

 

says...

Ah right, I thought you were refering to the way most horns used to be
switched, in the negative - my mistake.

The Daytonas come with full instructions as to which cable to tap into
on the 4 Japanese maker's machines, on the Bindit it's the orange cable
and on Steve's Honda it'll be the black wires.