brake bleeding

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by Yeebok, Nov 21, 2011.

  1. Yeebok

    atec77 Guest

    If he were closer it would be fixed by now , have impact might have


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    atec77, Nov 21, 2011
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  2. Yeebok

    Nigel Allen Guest

    "Closer" than what to what?

    Nigel Allen, Nov 21, 2011
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  3. Yeebok

    atec77 Guest



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    atec77, Nov 22, 2011
  4. Yeebok

    Yeebok Guest

    Port Macquarie, very near the roundabout at the hospital end of lake road.
    Yeebok, Nov 22, 2011
  5. Yeebok

    Yeebok Guest

    I got it off, but it has cracked, grr. I didn't do your method, I tried
    another (tapping the blunt side of a hacksaw blade against the gap),
    which worked - the screw came out easy, then I dropped the lid which
    cracked. I suspect I'd cracked it earlier but I was listening closely
    for any odd noises and didn't hear any. Conversely it's not that heavy
    and fell onto carpet, which I don't think would break it.

    I figure the way this is going I won't be able to get a new cap and have
    to get a new cylinder :)

    Either way though I can't seem to get any pressure up at the front to
    push stuff out. I can pump the lever 50 times and it pushes about 1cm of
    fluid out, very slowly.
    Yeebok, Nov 22, 2011
  6. Yeebok

    Nigel Allen Guest

    There there atec.

    Maybe you know where he is. Maybe you know where I am. Maybe you even
    know where you are.

    I only know one of those and I'll leave the answer as an exercise to the
    reader :)

    Nigel Allen, Nov 22, 2011
  7. Works in both case sometimes anyway. On my bike it was a stretch to
    reach, and I couldn't get good hand pressure otherwise. More
    importantly, I wanted two hand on the bleeder end, so I can operate the
    spanner, and hold the tube & jar to stop it from flapping around aimlessly.
    It's not just oil. It corrodes and destroys many substances, and does
    a bloody good job on painted surfaces too. The less of it I have lying
    around the floor, the better.
    Some of the higher temp/performance fluids are even more corrosive.
    You need to ensure a positive pressure on the hydraulic line down to
    the bleeder nipple at all times. The moment you stop, there is risk of
    the master piston coming back, and sucking air into the system.
    Likewise you need to apply pressure BEFORE you open the bleeder, again
    due to the risk (pressure, temperature whatever) that opening the
    bleeder will let air in.

    It's easy to say you're pumping it out anyway, but it doesn't work
    like that. Once you get air into the bleeder, you have to exercise it
    to work the air bubble up to the master cylinder that will eventually
    expel it (you'll see bubbles at the top).
    And THAT takes time.

    If you're letting air in, you're fighting a losing battle.
    You'll get air INTO the system by far faster than you can get it OUT.
    Dodgy seals might not show until the system is properly bled AND you
    stomp on it. Just because they're faulty, doesn't mean they're going to
    dribble at an obvious rate.

    But the fact they're worse now than they were before only means you've
    done it wrong.
    There might be more than one *right* way to bleed brakes, but clearly
    you didn't do it any one of those ways. :)
    That's ok, I do mine as a matter of course when I first get the
    bicycle/Motorbike/car whatever. It is *standard* practice and
    recommendation that the fluid is replaced every two years.
    I'll swear black and blue, I've never met an old vehicle that had good
    fluid in it. I'll also swear green and red that fluid is the same the
    bloody factory put in.

    So what you're doing is a good thing. Just perhaps not in a good way.
    Besides, you want a real challenge? Try a fully sealed (non
    reservoir) system. They're simpler in concept, but more difficult in
    practice, since you need gravity to help you do it, plus pressure on a
    nowhere near standard orifice. Bicycles are easy enough, but bloody
    gokarts are heavy.
    it's just practice.
    I'm still not convinced it's that bad you can't recover. Nothing more
    than the correct procedure might take a little longer to allow for the air.
    John Tserkezis, Nov 22, 2011

  8. You will not get any pressure at all if you have the bleed screw open when
    you are pumping
    George W Frost, Nov 22, 2011
  9. Yeebok

    atec77 Guest

    I rang him and explained how to "oil can"it

    it should be working now


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    atec77, Nov 22, 2011
  10. Use a power bleeder that runs off an air compressor. I couldn't go back
    to the manual way. About $150 from Repco. It is well worth it.
    Alternatively find one you can borrow.

    Fraser Johnston, Nov 22, 2011
  11. Chances are the rubber seal is sticking shut. Try tapping a screwdriver
    in GENTLY.

    Fraser Johnston, Nov 22, 2011

  12. While you are there
    do you happen to have a pair of 38's handy?

    for an NKT superhet
    George W Frost, Nov 22, 2011
  13. Yeebok

    atec77 Guest

    No I carry no hot fets any more , there is a bloke on qrz who deals
    in them however


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    atec77, Nov 22, 2011

  14. Okay thanks I will try there
    George W Frost, Nov 22, 2011
  15. Yeebok

    Buzz^| Guest

    Easiest way for bikes seems to be the fish tank or similar airline and a
    LARGE Syringe from a vet. Suck out the old fluid from the top and
    discard, pump new stuff in from the bottom by attaching the tube to the
    bleeder and pump the new fluid into the system. 2 syringes come in handy
    as when you see the new fluid come into the top, suck all the old stuff
    out. Tighten the bleeder and you're all done, bikes can be a PITA
    because unlike cars the brake lines al all vertical and the bubbles want
    to go back up the lines. Adding fluid from the bottom helps stop this.
    All gear needed ads up to a few bucks and can be reused.

    Brad Leyden
    6° 43.5816' S 146° 59.3097' E WGS84
    To mail spam is really hot but please
    reply to thread so all may benefit
    (or laugh at my mistakes)
    Buzz^|, Nov 24, 2011
  16. That might be the easiest cheap way but not easier than a power bleeder.
    Attach power bleeder to nipple, start sucking, crack nipple, fill into
    reservoir as required. Job done. I can bleed all the brakes on the
    bike in 15 minutes that way.
    Fraser Johnston, Nov 24, 2011
  17. Yeebok

    Yeebok Guest

    Of all the advice in this thread this was the one that I felt confident
    having a go at - it seems dead simple and logical. I'm pretty sure I
    could do it that way (aside from not draining the top cylinder I can't
    see how you could **** that up).

    That said the wife has less faith in me than that and it's in the shop
    getting sorted.
    Yeebok, Nov 25, 2011
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