bypass neutral switch on old wing

Would someone please tell me exactly how I bypass my neutral switch so I can
start my 76 Goldwing?

 

Typically, I think, a neutral switch just makes a connection
to ground.

Have you located the switch, and does it have two wires
running into it ?

If so, one of the two wires would probably show continuity
to ground. If one of the two wires is to ground, then you should
be able to jumper them together.

A quick google search turns up this link:

http://www.gl1000.info/NeutralLight.shtml

Good luck.

 

I've got a slightly dicky neutral light on my air-cooled GPz750 (not
listed in sig). The irritation is that if it doesn't light up, the
starter button doesn't work because the safety interlock is in effect.

Just pulling in the clutch lever when hitting the starter button gets it
going. It's not a bad policy anyway on those old Kawa engines because of
the slight weakness of the starter clutch. But some time soon I must
whip off the sprocket cover and clean the switch contacts, since I'm 99%
sure they're dirty and are causing the problem.

I detest all these bloody electric safety locks - the damn things all
seem to fail sooner or later. I've had several Kawasaki sidestand
switches fail on me, and the BMW K one shorted out recently and burned
out its wiring spectacularly. My Street Triple *must* have the clutch
pulled in to start. The little Honda scooter I ran a couple of years ago
wouldn't start unless you applied one or other of the brakes. Grr.

I've never driven a car that required one to apply the clutch or the
brakes before it would start - no, belay that, I encountered it for the
first time on a hired Citroen the winter before last. Would only start
with the clutch depressed. SO the malaise is spreading.....

 

Starting in the early 90's or so the US govt must have "started"
requiring the clutch to be depressed when starting the vehicle.
My '94 Toyota truck, '94 Nissan truck, '99 Miata all require it.
My '87 Mazda truck did not.