Carbon Fibre

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Spike, Dec 6, 2006.

  1. Spike

    Spike Guest

    Anyone had any experience of working with this? Is it basicly just the same
    as fibreglass, without the stippling?...

    Try as I might, I cant find anywhere on the net that gives idiot proof
    instructions and tips on how to mould carbon fibre.

    All I want to do is reinforce a laptop lid that got broken, and spruce it up
    with a thin sheet of carbon fibre sheet and some nice strong epoxy resin..

    Any tips people?

    And if anyone knows of somewhere thats cheaper than this for small
    quantities.. let me know!

    http://www.carbonology.com/shop.asp?PC_ID=3187&pf_id=78&sec_id=2116
     
    Spike, Dec 6, 2006
    #1
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  2. Spike

    Pip Guest

    Antonye is your man for this. No doubt he'll be along shortly.
     
    Pip, Dec 6, 2006
    #2
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  3. Pip already answered this.
    As I understand it, no. I seem to recall that CF needs autoclaving, or
    at least, cooking, to get it to set properly - BICBW.
     
    DoetNietComputeren, Dec 6, 2006
    #3
  4. Spike

    Vass Guest

    in my modelling days [1] we used to buy carbon fibre ribbon on a reel
    you could wrap these around wings etc to produce strength at known weak
    points
    Cannot remember what was used to fix the ribbon in place, but I'm sure most
    good model shops
    would be albe to help

    [1] thats planes not catwalks
     
    Vass, Dec 6, 2006
    #4
  5. Spike

    antonye Guest

    Heh.

    I've done some work with carbon fibre and if you've
    done any fibreglass work then it is no different to
    working with sheet glass fibre rather than chopped.
    Carbon tends to "pull" apart though, making it difficult
    to press the air out with a roller, and you'll mess up
    the weave. Same can happen with a stippling brush
    if you're not careful.

    Getting good results is a real problem though, as
    to get good flat sheets you really need to make
    up a decent press and then start messing about
    with vacuums to suck out all the air bubbles. It
    really isn't worth the effort for very small quantities.

    If all you need is a sheet that will be seen then buy
    one off ebay. I bought a rectangular shaped one
    about A5 size & 5mm thick for just over a tenner.
    It arrived perfectly flat with a nice glossy finish and
    was certainly worth the money. It made a lovely
    dash on the race bike...
    http://horrible.demon.co.uk/600-620/slides/Mmm ... carbon!.JPG

    I emailed the bloke with the dimensions I required
    and he cut it for me. All it needed was the edges
    sanding and holes cutting.

    If all you're going to do is reinforce something that
    won't be seen then use plain ol' fibre sheet from
    a Halfrauds glass-fibre repair pack, the yellow
    box stuff, as that has everything you need. Once
    dry you could even paint it black or something.
    The weight difference and strength between this
    and carbon will be negligible.

    If you're looking to replicate a laptop lid/shell in
    carbon fibre ... good luck! You'll spend years perfecting
    your method and spend hundreds of pounds on
    materials and equipment, by which time it would
    have been cheaper to buy a new laptop and the
    one you built the case for will be out of date anyway!
     
    antonye, Dec 6, 2006
    #5
  6. Spike

    antonye Guest

    There are two methods for creating parts - wet lay and pre-preg.

    Wet lay, as the name suggests, is where you take your
    pieces of carbon cloth and then coat it in the resin and
    lay it up around a mold. You then leave it to set. The
    resins I've worked with (West) all cure without baking,
    although they generate a hell of a lot of heat during curing!

    Pre-preg is where the carbon cloth had had the resin
    already impregnated into it. You lay up your cloth on
    your mold, clamp it and and then bake it. The resin in
    the cloth melts, binds the cloth parts together, and then
    cures as the oven cools down. This is much more precise
    as the amounts of resin are controlled, and usually ends up
    with a better and more uniform finish.
     
    antonye, Dec 6, 2006
    #6
  7. <snip>

    so, neither wrong, nor right, story of my life.
     
    DoetNietComputeren, Dec 6, 2006
    #7
  8. Spike

    Cath Guest

    Cath, Dec 6, 2006
    #8
  9. Spike

    antonye Guest

    Only when describing you, flower.
     
    antonye, Dec 6, 2006
    #9
  10. Spike

    antonye Guest

    Not require, no.
     
    antonye, Dec 6, 2006
    #10
  11. Spike

    Kim Bolton Guest

    But to get the best performance from the expensive pre-preg,
    autoclaving would be a way to go.

    Not forgetting to let it warm to room temperature after its cold
    storge, without getting it covered in condensation.
     
    Kim Bolton, Dec 6, 2006
    #11
  12. Spike

    Paul - xxx Guest

    antonye came up with the following;:
    One tip to help ... When you have a cut and sanded edge of carbon sheet, run
    a small bead of superglue along the edge. Makes it look nicer but more
    importantly stops the weave from fraying and weakening.

    s'wot we do on our model car chassis ... ;)
     
    Paul - xxx, Dec 6, 2006
    #12
  13. Hey, that's pretty groovy.
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Dec 8, 2006
    #13
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