Never done one before, sprockets too, got the chain rivet tool & an angle grinder Any tips? -- Nige, Land Rover 90 Yamaha R1 Range Rover Vogue
If it warms up a bit I am going to attack the same job on the SO YZ250 later. The biggest problem with that is likely to be getting the gearbox sprocket nut off. I've been soaking it in Plusgas for the last few days whilst waiting for a new tab washer[1] to arrive. I'm hoping I won't need the rattle gun to loosen it, but it looks like it has been on there for some time. Assuming the new chain is already the correct number of pitches there aren't many gotchas. I will be using a split link as it's only 520 chain on a gutless two stroke, so I will make sure the little fish is swimming in the right direction. [1] The original one has nothing left to safely peen over. -- +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Pete Fisher at Home: | | Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" | | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nige Loosen the font sprocket nut *BEFORE* you cut the chain.
Don't remove the chain until you've loosened off the gearbox sprocket. Seriously. Best way of jamming the sprocket while you apply welly to the nut is to put the thing in gear and jam a broomstick or something through the rar wheel. And that won't work if, in a fit of early enthusiasm, you've cut through the chain and removed it first.
Clean the bike, turn garage heater on, lay all tools out next to the bike, Phone Bonwick and offer lots of free beer and Curry! Boxerboy
On my GSXR750 I needed the chain on, a piece of scaffold pole between the spokes of the rear wheel and swing arm to lock that and then me standing on another bit of scaffold pole on a breaker bar to shift the front sprocket nut. At one point the back wheel was off the ground.
Sounds like when I did the GFR. I'm hoping that much force won't be required on the YZ seeing as it has olde worlde 'wire' spoked wheels. With luck I can wedge something between the (also to be replaced) rear sprocket and the swinging arm. -- +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Pete Fisher at Home: | | Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" | | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
A third foot on the brake pedal or (if all the sprox are being changed like they should be) stick a socket extention bar on the bottom run of the chain and rotate the back wheel until the bar jams into the rear sprocket. Using a rattler is far less of a burden for the job that a breaker bar and (possibly) a length of scaff tubing. It's what I do if I don't have anyone with a foot going spare. -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
Do i need any locking shit on the htreads when i refit the nut? -- Nige, Land Rover 90 Yamaha R1 Range Rover Vogue
Those Honda ones with a little plate and two 10mm bolts that screw into the sprocket itself: those are great. The "one big nut" jobbies are a PITA,
Actually, if you do cut the chain first by mistake, it isn't the end of the world. You only need one run to take the strain, the other run only needs to take enough load to keep the chain on the sprockets, so a ty-wrap or bit of wire twisted through the cut end links will hold it well enough. DAMHIKIJD, OK?
I tried an extension on the breaker bar after locking the back wheel solid and still couldn't shift the nut on my 10R. I also tried using my compressor with a 1/2" impact tool and nothing moved.
