Chain & sprocket tips

(The Older Gentleman) wrote in

My first experience of doing a C&S kit was on a Honda Dommie with the 2
bolts/plate arrangement. Quite an easy job with the bike balanced on a beer
crate under the engine.

After a while I needed to do my other bike. A VFR750FJ. I thought it would
be an easy job too...

 

The rattle gun would have it sorted in a few seconds.

 

On Loz's ZZR1100, we had all sorts going on, to absolutely no avail.
Once Big Nick the Man Mountain arrived, we sat Loz on the bike to lock
both brakes on and provide balance and counterweight: I had the job of
keeping the 1" drive socket on the nut, located in the breaker bar and
on the axle stand under it as a pivot.

We put Big Nick on the scaffold pole, the length of which placed him
beyond the rear wheel. All in place, strain taken, BN straightened his
legs - and the back of the bike came off the ground and it all moved
forward. We moved the bike so that the front tyre abutted the dwarf
wall on the end of the patio and did it again.

The bike went up horizontally, and just as it got to the top of the
dwarf wall - the nut finally let go with a resounding bang.

We dunno how much torque we'd got on that - but to lift Loz+ZZR two
feet into the air, quite a bloody lot, mate. They can get tight.

 

<fx: awaits massive sweary post>

 

Holy crap. I wonder what sort of machine Kawasaki use to put the damn
thing on?

 

I've had a heater on in the garage while summoning up the sinews.
I might as well get some practice as the chances are I will be wanting
to swap front sprocket sizes quite often. The problem is that this one
has been rusting in place for a minimum of four years, and the previous
owner obviously didn't follow Andy's tab washer advice. There are small
projections of torn off washer on every flat of the nut.

A quick cup of coffee and then I'm going in - I may be some time.

--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Well the fates were smiling on me this afternoon.

Cleaned up the ragged tab washer bits as much as possible, put it in to
5th and jammed a large bolt in to one of the lightening holes on the
rear sprocket to nestle against the swinging arm.

FFS - it needs a socket larger than anything I have got. In desperation
I discovered that a FOAD 7/8 BS[1] ring spanner was a good fit. Worth a
try anyway. One good heave and it was free!

One slight problem is that a 15 tooth gearbox sprocket slightly fouls
the swinging arm chain protection. Nothing that can't be easily sorted
should I find such high gearing is needed. I'm putting the smallest
available 47 alloy on the rear (standard is 49) as I can go right down
to 12 on the front if required. Judging by how it felt on the 13/50 it
has been on, I'm going to try 14/47 first. I'd rather be geared too high
for the first practice than rev the nuts off it and blow it up. Just got
to cut the chain to the optimum length now to allow the full range if
possible.

I wonder how Nige is getting on?

[1] What's that going to be in metric - 32mm?

--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

From your and Mr B's posts, must be Kwak thing.

 

SNAP FFS!

Nowt i had was big enough, so i changed the undertray, what a fucking job,
everything is in there.

The **** that had it before cut it down & made a **** of it.

The lock for the rear seat is a proper bog huggng ringreamer of a bastards
fuckjuice to do.

Oil & filter tomorrow, need to find the size of the fucking nut too.

Not a wasted afternoon.


--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

It took me by surprise because for some reason I expected it to be a
30mm.

That fiddly eh?

Fairly large (36 ?) at a guess. Hopefully you can google it.

That's something.
--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Pete Fisher wrote:

33.02mm according to the chart here:

http://www.sat.dundee.ac.uk/~psc/spanner_jaw.html#Jaw_Size_Table

It's good to see somebody keeping the old tools handy.

I consigned all my big old spanners and sockets to a cardboard box,
then found that I was forever in there, especially for larger sized
stuff. They now reside in the bottom of toolbox#4 for ease of access.

 

On 27/02/2010 14:05, Pip wrote:

Sounds like the crank bolt i need to get off the 90 i am retro fitting
power steering to

 

What a useful site. It was a tad slack, so I'm guessing 32 should be
snug, but I'll go shopping armed with the old nut (I acquired a new one
just in case when ordering the tab washer to make the postage seem more
reasonable). This on-line parts ordering lark is a boon compared to the
old days. A J Sutton seem to stock everything for it, at a price.

This is a Britool chromed double-ended (7/8 & 1 BS) ring spanner, so
featuring built in breaker bar capability. I purchased it in the 31
CSR/Monza outfit days and it has been pressed in to service for various
bodges over the intervening thirty years. I also keep one or two
imperial sockets handy that can sometimes help persuade slightly
butchered metric hex stuff off if hammered on.
--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

I'm pretty sure it's 34mm. If not it'll be 36mm but I really don't
think it is because I've never bothered buying a 36mm socket and done
plenty of C+S on R1s etc.

 

I see it seems to be 36mm, but i'm gonna get a set of big sockets anyhow.

 

I'm wondering why they put the smallest, lightest guy on the bike in
first place.

--
Lesley
Residing in the Capital of Culture 2008
CBR600FW
Peugeot 206 S
SBS#11 (with oak-leaf cluster)
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18

 

Yes, it would. Which is why I said in another post I'll leave it to
dealers in the future. Whilst I suffer from TAD[1] as much as the
next WUN, I can't afford or justify a compressor and gun.



[1] Tool Acquisition Disorder.

 

Position of highest risk, innit. Expendable spic, see - if it had gone
bang in a bad way he could have been flung ... feet.

We didn't really expect the thing to go up in the air - shoving it
forwards is one thing, but vertically up a wall, with the front wheel
locked is something else entirely. He looked a little worried ;-)

 

I tried using a nice big 1/2" drive air impact gun (1) on mine and it
wasn't having any of it. No doubt it would have moved if I'd had a
bigger compressor and a 1" drive gun on it but I haven't got either of
those.

The trouble really starts when you want to buy 'proper' tools rather
than toys.

(1) Calling them a rattle gun is like calling a hammer a bang bang. If
I went to the stores at a power station and asked for a rattle gun
they'd either not understand what I was asking for or start asking my
employer if I knew what I was doing.

 

Andy Bonwick wrote:

As much as I prefer to call things by their correct name, the majority
of the mechanics/technicians in the motor trade call air impact drivers
rattle guns.