Chain & sprocket tips

Case proven.

 

There should be a tabbed washer under the nut. Bend the tab back before you
try fitting a socket and bend it back when you've fitted the new sprocket.
No Loc-Tite.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

How many fucking spanners don't you have Nige?

I reckon a trip to Halfrauds or Machine Mart is a ust for you.

The "trick" to a well maintained "anything" is having a decent set of tools
for the jobs you'll likely come across[1]

[1] Not in the usual Nige meaning.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

And it depends on the rattler too. A cheap rattler typically has around 250
torques[1], but a good (expensive) one is around 650 "undoing" torques.

[1] Thank you Mr Clarkson


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Indeed, one of those jobs where only SnapOn is good enough.
And a decent compressor which can deliver 140 psi also helps.
The combination of these two represents an almost irresisible force for
any nut that you are likely to encounter in reality.

 

Just jam a bar between the chain and the sprocket and put the bike
in first gear. That should give you enough inertia for the rattle
gun to do its job.
It is not necessary to have the nut rigidly immobilised, you just
need sufficient inertia for the impacts to work against.

 

Ah the old "measure twice, cut once".

 

Although, as it turned out, twice wasn't enough.

 

I always measure mine (as I usually just by a standard length of chain)
by passing it round the sprockets after pushing the rear wheel as far
forward as it will go, then seeing where the join will be. But then, on
the hill climbers, I may be deviating from a standard pitch count as a
result of very significant gearing changes. If you can start the cut by
putting a pin extractor on the correct one with the chain in situ it's
hard to go wrong. Angle grinder wielders would have to mark it somehow.

--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+

 

This DID chain was the right length for the R1, it even said so on the box


--


Nige,

Land Rover 90
Yamaha R1
Range Rover Vogue

 

"This fucking chain fits an R1, you cuntflapping goatfelching arsewipe.
If it doesn't it'll be your fucking fault, you useless puddle of
mouldering gangbang cuntdribble".

 

Im up gearing the 600, with a 525-47 on the rear rather than a 45.

Job for the weekend - I never get the 600 to top out in, well, top, so
a little extra acceleration can only help.

--
Gavin.

GSXR600K1
Twitter: http://twitter.com/gavin_wilby
Blog: http://www.stoof.co.uk

 

I hope it doesnt make it stupidly revvy, but I dont think so.

Ill have to work out a way of mounting the tomtom so I can work out the
speedo too.
--
Gavin.

GSXR600K1
Twitter: http://twitter.com/gavin_wilby
Blog: http://www.stoof.co.uk

 

Nah - I get closer on the mile TBH,

Highest Iv seen is about 13,000 in top at an indicated 167 MPH.

--
Gavin.

GSXR600K1
Twitter: http://twitter.com/gavin_wilby
Blog: http://www.stoof.co.uk

 

They are if you stop the sprocket moving before the force reaches the cush
drive, hence my saying a bar shoved into the bottom of the chain run and
jammed directly up against the sprocket.

They're properly tight when you have to use an AG to remove the things.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Heh, very true Steve.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

<pats on head>