Chains.. adjustment thereof

Having discovered that I have the alignment abilities of the Home Secretary
[1], I am somewhat perturbed at the idea of having to adjust the chain on my
bike.

Unfortunately it's got rather too much slack in it now and does need to be
done[2]. I still haven't understood how the 'plank system' works - so if
anyone's got any good ideas on checking you've got wheel the alignment right
without using two planks, or the swing arm markers (as they seem as accurate
as Sir.Tony) I would appreciate it.

I was possibly considering buying a very cheap laser type light from the B&Q
and trying that....


[1] This has been what has been causing the o-rings to fall out of my
chains.
[2] any more and it'll be moveable up to the swing arm in the bit that
doesn't have the plastic guard... :-|

 

dwb wrote:

I know bugger all about aligning wheels, but do have a hand held Leica laser
distance meter, and access to a laser level if that's any help.

--
Oldbloke

My Bike - 2000 Honda CB500
M'boy's Bike - 1990 Suzuki TS50X
i Bike - MotoRumi Junior Gentleman

BOTAFOT #140, DIAABTCOD#26
"He's like Robbo's chubby kid brother"

 

I've relied on the swing arm markers for wheel alignment when doing
the gixxer and haven't noticed any particular problems with
handling/tyre wear between the times when I've adjusted the chain and
the chain's been adjusted by the garage after a service.

It would be interesting to know how far out it would have to be to
notice any difference. I guess the real danger would be if the
sprockets were badly out of alignment.

Disclaimer: This is not advice.

 

spida wrote
of wheel alignment:

I too would like an answer to this one. It is obviously not *that*
important if it is a little out and presumably at some point of
maladjustment it has to be a real issue but the gap between the two
seems to be a complete unknown.

 

Assuming it's already in line..

Measure the distance between tyre edge and swingarm on the left hand
side..

Measure the distance between tyre edge and swingarm on the right hand
side..

Move the wheel back.

Check the distances are the similar to the ones you started with.

FWIW I doubt the swingarm marks will be out my much at all

OR................

Just make a pencil mark 2mm behind where the bolts are now, on both
sides of the swingarm and move the wheel back that far.

HTH.

 

dwb let forth with a mighty belch and uttered :

Bought a gizmo from MPS years ago that clamps over the rear sprocket and
provides a rod that lies over the top of the chain[1] so you can see when
it is in alignment.

Not cheap, but makes setting up the alignment an absolute doddle. One of
those 'how did I do without that for so long' type tools.

Using it, I found the alignment marks on the 600f were about as useful for
setting up as the pock marks in the paint finish. They were about a notch
out.

HTH

[1]Not a fantastic description.

 

Two straight(ish) lengths of wood longer than the bike's wheelbase. Lie
one parallel to each side of the rear wheel (touching the tyre). Check
the front wheel is approximately central. If not, adjust er.. adjusters
until it is.

Job done.

Swingarm marks *can* be out IMO (of shite old bikes). Well, maybe the
marks are in the right place but the rest of it is fucked...

 

On the few times I've done the job, I just made sure I gave exactly the
same amount of turn to each tensioning nut.

--
John

SV650
Black it is
and naked

 

[chain adjusting[

Aye, that's the one. Assuming it is already in line, just count the
flats.

 

wrote:

That's the best answer so far.
Just a couple of points:

You shouldn't use an intransitive verb with an object.

It helps if you have a pal to hold the bars so that
the front wheel is parallel to your sticks.

Don't try it on a Trident with offset rear wheel.

 

On machines that I know have equal length swinging arm arms, I use a
calliper gauge to measure from the swing arm end to the centre of the
axle. Adjust until they're both the same.

 

Ta - might need it

 

F*ck knows, but I do know I've had the o-rings fall out of two chains, one
on the SV, one on the GSX-R - either due to alignment or possibly
over tension - but then it's "to the manual" but that possibly means bugger
all...

 

Ta to all .

 

Still on the original chain after 13000 miles using the 'ah **** it
that'll do' method.