Clutch pedal stuck, can't start. No clutch handle pressure.

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by stevetokita, Apr 6, 2006.

  1. stevetokita

    stevetokita Guest

    I have a 1983 Honda Shadow VT750. I recently rebuilt the engine and
    finally put it back into the frame. When I tried to start it, it just
    clicks and kills. The clutch pedal became stuck in gear, and I think
    that is causing it to kill, obviously. However, I bled the clutch, but
    it does't build up any pressure to be able to disengage the clutch.

    When I was rebuilding the engine, I accidentally pulled the clutch
    lever, and read afterward that is bad. It said something about the
    piston in the slave cylinder. Could that be the problem? If so, how do
    I fix it?

    Any other suggestions on how I can get it out of gear and just try to
    start it? Any advice is welcomed. Please help! I'm so close to getting
    this bike running, and I think this may be the holdup. Thank you!
    stevetokita, Apr 6, 2006
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  2. stevetokita

    OH- Guest


    Obviously??!!! What the **** is obvious? Is this the first
    bike with a hydraulic gear change pedal ? Or have you
    converted it to foot clutch and still have a clutch handle?
    Is it stuck in gear at all or is your problem only that the
    clutch won't disengage? Or is both gear change and clutch
    faulty? Don't you know how to change gear without using
    the clutch?

    Please make some sense.
    OH-, Apr 6, 2006
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  3. stevetokita

    FB Guest

    Grab the rear wheel with the motorcycle on the center stand and try to
    turn it back and forth while you work the shift lever with your hand.
    The transmission should shift from gear to gear to neutral as you work
    the shifter lever.

    I certain hope the transmission isn't in two gears at the same time.
    That would be a pain in the butt after what you've been through with
    the engine to rebuild it.

    It's possible that you got the shifter forks assembled incorrectly in
    relation to the shifter drum, and that would mean you'd have to pull
    the engine apart again to get the
    shifter fork pegs back into the grooves in the shifter drum. For your
    sake, I hope this is not the problem.

    The lack of pressure as you operate the clutch lever is because there's
    an air bubble in the clutch hose right up by the banjo bolt that
    connects the hose to the master cylinder.

    I recommend that you cover your gas tank with plastic sheet or old
    towels and remove the clutch master cylinder cap. Remove the slave
    cylinder and use a piece of wood or plastic to push the slave cylinder
    piston back into the slave cylinder.

    This should push the air out of the system and it should come up
    through the tiny air bleed hole in the bottom of the master cylinder.

    Reinstall the master cylinder reservoir cap and reinstall the slave
    cylinder and work to lever several times. Pressure should build up.
    Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. You
    don't want to pump the fluid level down and admit air to the system

    If you cannot pump up any pressure, you have a stubborn air bubble
    right where the banjo bolt attaches the clutch hose to the cylinder.

    Protect your pain by covering the gas tank and other parts with plastic
    sheet or an old towel and carefully remove the banjo bolt. Hold your
    finger over the hole and pump the lever until brake fluid comes out.

    Carefully reinstall the banjo bolt and hose. You don't want to strip
    those fine aluminum threads in the master cylinder body, but you have
    to get that bolt tight enough so it won't weep brake fluid.

    Then pump up some pressure with the lever and you should be ready to
    try to start the engine.
    FB, Apr 6, 2006
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