Coil failure again?

*waves*

Dear Cathy and Claire,
I've polished my MZ and it won't run properly.

 

I'd certainly be looking at the fuel supply. How fast does it come out
of the pipe to the carbs/injector pump.

If its carbs what's the state of play in the "full of shit" games?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Champ

<off the wall idea>

Fuel pipe inner separated, collapsing under suction, then re-inflating
slowly?

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

the OP said "died" in a manner which I didn't take to mean fuel
starvation, but an instant cut out like a kill switch.

of course if his motor is injected then it would cut out instantly, but
that would still be an electrical problem.

 

I was thinking of the fuel pump, there must be some sort of pressure
sensor there. Maybe a problem related to a collapsing/kinked pipe.
Maybe dnc could try taking the fuel pump out of the circuit and just use
a gravity feed. Works with the FJ.

 

I had the same cutting out and then recovering with my GT550. The
fault turned out to be a break in the wire from the ignition switch
to the coils which only happened when the wiring loom was flexed
slightly to the right and was a right bastard to find.

 

Suppose there was some obstruction between fuel pump and carbs...
pressure would build, fuel pump would stop, pressure would go down, fuel
pump would start. Or something.

Something could be... arranged. Just to try like.

 

Yes. It sounds silly, but I had exactly the same problem on a Honda
CD175 - the little filter in the fuel tap was almost blocked, and wasn't
flowing enough fuel. It would run, and then conk out. And if you left it
a while, the carb would refill, and it would run again, for a few miles.
And then stop.

I made it home in a series of fits and starts, removed, stripped and
cleaned the fuel tap and filter, and that was that.

I'd suggest having a look at the fuel tap filter (if there is one) and
fuel pump filter (ditto - is the ZZR fuel supply gravity fed or is there
a pump?)

 

It's the works perfectly after a little rest symptom that makes me still
think fuel.

 

<AOL>

 

I'd agree - & offer up the ignition pick-up as the culprit.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique,

Get the immobiliser removed.

Really.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

But at least he'll know why.

 

Yup, and the first thing I'd check would be the sidestand ignition
cutout.

 

As the kill switch is stuck out on the bar end, in the breeze, and
nowhere near the engine, I doubt this. But the rev counter behaviour
suggests that yes, it is ignition, and so I'd start looking at the
connections from the kill switch, CDI unit, sidestand switch etc etc.

Killl switches themselves very rarely malfunction. Sidestand switches
do, because they're perfectly placed to collect all the road cack.