[QUOTE="M.Badger"] First off, get a battery with high CCA, you'll need it.[/QUOTE] Mine's magneto and kick start. [QUOTE] Based on that, I'd go with a 10/40 fully synth[/QUOTE] Synth doesn't really work in the Armstrongs - causes all manner of problems. The military spec oil for down to -15° is 15/30 high detergent mineral. [QUOTE] If I had a water cooled bike, I'd be running 60/40 or 75/25 anti-freeze.[/QUOTE] For some reason I think anti freeze becomes less efficient if not diluted enough - can't remember why, it may be boiling points. [QUOTE] I'd also make damn sure the locks were squirted with a water dispersant regularly. Frozen locks not fun.[/QUOTE] Got some lock de-icer already. [QUOTE] Having twatted a pair of fork seals because I didn't knock the ice off the stanchions, I'd either coat the forks with ACF50 or similar and gaiter them, or spray them down each night too, and check for ice formation.[/QUOTE] Already gaitered but may look at getting some ACF50 - although I a couple of gallons of Waxoyl which I tend to sling about quite liberally. [QUOTE] The O rings in the chain will be stiff, so give them an easier time by toothbrushing some engine oil on the chain before parking up[/QUOTE] We have Scottoilers so fucking about in freezing conditions with a bloody toothbrush won't be necessary. We're also camping and so I'd like to avoid getting covered in engine oil. [QUOTE] The lube in the wheel bearings needs to come up to temp slowly too. Squeeze the coolant lines before starting, just to make sure you can compress them. Not good running an ice bound engine.[/QUOTE] Hooray for aircooled. [QUOTE] By starting the bike on the mainstand, and letting the rear wheel rotate under oil drag, you'll help to warm the chain up, warm the rear wheel bearings up, and get to smoke whilst pondering the rotatey wheel.[/QUOTE] I'll be happy if it starts.