Crutch nut.

Bloody clutch nut won't come undone on the ZX9R. Pain in the butt...

 

Don't know the particular bike but...

Lather with WD40.Leave a while and then apply heat if possible without
damage.I use a cheap Aerosol type Paint stripper torch/can/Butane type
from a D.I.Y shop.

HTH

 

WD40 is bloody useless as a penetrating oil. Use plusgas instead

 

What he said.

And use *lots* of heat.

 

I didn't bother in the end. The new gearbox has a clutch on it anyway.
It's only do 11K. As I have split the crankcases I can now just drop the
new stuff in. I can see one selector fork is worn on one side where the
gear has rubbed away at it. I guess I bent the fork. I will have to be
careful in future. Must remember the ZX9 doesn't have a slipper clutch.

 

What he said.

And use *lots* of heat.[/QUOTE]

**** that. Just use a 1" drive 110v impact driver. Sometimes working
in heavy engineering is useful.

 

Good point.Forgot about ,"Plus-Gas".WD is pretty crappy but most
people have some form of it to hand and it does work if you use a lot
of it with heat.

 

Waits for "fire damaged" 9R to come up for sale.

 

He only connected one wire.

 

I've got a 240v - 110v transformer that's usually sitting in the back
of my van waiting for me to use any 110v power tools that happen to be
lying around in our site stores at work.

The only 'tool' I use these days that requires a 240v supply is a nice
little welding set that will burn 6mm rods all day long.

 

Dunno about yours, but the centre nut on the 748 is done up to 190Nm,
which is quite a few grunts.

I bought a 12v impact gun thing from the Argos sale for 9.99,
especially
for such occasions.

 

By law, all site tools have to be 110V, but that's commonly achieved by
use of a 240/110 transformer. You're perfectly free to use 240V tools in
the home or when you're doing work in domestic premises. Quite when a
job in a house turns into a site job and requires 110V, I'm not sure.

Whatever; it means bargains can be found. I picked up a stonking SDS-max
breaker a couple of years back for peanuts because it was 240V and none
of the site guys were allowed it on site anymore. It's great for me, for
one-off jobs like flue holes and the like.

--

Dave

GS850 x2 XS650SE / SE 6a

I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

 

Why can't you use 240V power tools? Don't you use a GFI on the power
cords?

 

I've got a sip 1/2" hydraulic one. It removed the sprocket not no problem.
But the clutch is a different matter.

 

It says I have to replace some stuff when I remove the nut. So that's
another reason to leave it alone.

 

You can use whatever you like at home and indoors in some factory
units but the majority of places insist on 110v equipment and a valid
PAT certificate before you can use any power tools.

Popular opinion over here seems to be that the 55v hit you'll get
from a 110v tool is safer than the slight chance your RCD might ****
up and dish up 240v.

 

Opinion is divided on this. The 110V range of tools and transformers was
around long before reliable RCDs (Residual Current Device) [1] and have
persisted because they're predictable and pretty safe.

I've come across a few failed RCDs, so they're not failsafe.

[1] An RCD detects any imbalance between the live and neutral currents
and clicks off, usually at 30mA.

--

Dave

GS850 x2 XS650SE / SE 6a

I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

 

Isn't it the current that gets you though?

 

The ones I have found failed after they tripped i.e. could not be reset.

Yes, the Ground Fault Interrupt thingy does the same thing but at >5mA.