Doing my DAS - use of rear brake pls

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by WillF, Jun 5, 2010.

  1. WillF

    WillF Guest

    Hi all

    I have just started doing my DAS after 4 years on a px125 (a scooter
    with gears and clutch, etc).

    My instructor has told me off for dragging the rear brake when doing
    figure of eights. Also he says not to use it for moving off, other
    than hill starts.

    When I first did my CBT 5 years ago on a cg125 (msohpr) I was taught
    figure of eights were all about constant revs, and changes to clutch
    and rear brake to change speed.

    Was also taught to hold bike on rear brake even on flat, find the
    biting point, and move off with less and less rear brake pressure.

    I'm learning, and keen to do so, I know a lot less than my instructor
    clearly, but can anyone reassure me of the accepted use of the rear
    brake please?

    Many thanks
     
    WillF, Jun 5, 2010
    #1
    1. Advertisements

  2. WillF

    Nige Guest

    Thats utter codshit, of course you can use the back brake balanced against
    clutch & throttle, it gives better low speed control.
    I still use my right leg on the brake & left on the ground, just how i like
    to do it, some do, some dont.
    It's easy, as a learner to overuse the rear & not use the front at all, the
    results will end in tears eventually.

    It's surprising just how much speed you can shed through progressive heavy
    front braking, most dont get anywhere near



    --


    Nige,

    Land Rover 90
    Yamaha R1
    Range Rover Vogue
     
    Nige, Jun 5, 2010
    #2
    1. Advertisements

  3. WillF

    davethedave Guest

    You of course also put it in neutral at traffic lights and do the
    "Hendon Shuffle" prior to pulling off.
     
    davethedave, Jun 5, 2010
    #3
  4. WillF

    WillF Guest


    Thanks, that really helps me.

    It's a shame you have to pay over £500 upfront, with no clue as to the
    practices of the instructors.

    I may be back with more uncertainties as the next two weeks unfold.

    Thanks again

    Will
     
    WillF, Jun 5, 2010
    #4
  5. WillF

    petrolcan Guest

    Is that where you put both feet up whilst stationary?
     
    petrolcan, Jun 5, 2010
    #5
  6. WillF

    Nige Guest

    Naaaa, i take my time & judge the lights
     
    Nige, Jun 5, 2010
    #6
  7. WillF

    Catman Guest

    ITYF it's bike in neutral, feet down.

    ISTBC though.

    --
    Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
    Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
    116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 GTV TS GT 3.2 V6
    Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
    www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
     
    Catman, Jun 5, 2010
    #7
  8. WillF

    Pip Luscher Guest

    I thought it was because in the old days they taught that one should
    halt with the left foot down and the right foot on the brake.

    One then had to put the right foot down and left foot up to select
    first (|I can't recall if one was ever supposed to stop in neutral i
    between).

    Then there are hill starts...

    The technique I was shown a few years ago by a police rider was to
    brake to a halt and put the right foot down for preference, but
    without being dogmatic[1] about it.

    [1] cocking a leg at lamp posts is definitely frowned upon.
     
    Pip Luscher, Jun 5, 2010
    #8
  9. WillF

    Dan L Guest

    Doesn't concur with waht I was told when I DAS'd about 7 years ago.

    U-turns (which were nearly my downfall) were done using a combination
    of throttle control, clutch control and back brake control.
     
    Dan L, Jun 6, 2010
    #9
  10. WillF

    SIRPip Guest

    [of the Hendon Shuffle]
    Gah. Thought everybody knew this. Pip's close, but here you go:

    The Hendon Shuffle is the term for the method taught to Police
    motorcyclists at Hendon Police College. Approaching a junction and
    preparing to stop, the rider should be in first (or perhaps second)
    gear. At the stop line, put the right foot to the ground and hold the
    bike on the front brake (because the vehicle must always be under
    positive control). Select neutral with the left foot.

    Then here's part one of The Shuffle.

    Once neutral is selected, put the left foot to the ground, transfer the
    right foot to the rear brake and release the front brake, hold the bike
    like that in a relaxed state until the time to move off.

    Then there's part two of The Shuffle.

    Take pressure on the front brake, release the rear brake and put the
    right foot to the ground. Lift the left foot and select first gear.
    At that point you're good to go, but if you want to be really good, put
    the left foot back on the ground and take pressure on the rear brake
    again and move off from there.

    Plod, I believe, has always taught that the bike should be brought to a
    halt on the back brake, as this enhances stability by obviating fork
    dive. Further, moving off from the back brake is smoother and means
    that the right hand is only doing one thing, being in control of the
    throttle and not trying to balance brake release and throttle opening
    at the same time.

    It makes sense to me, although a lot of the time I come up to a stop on
    the front brake with the clutch in, selecting first as I do so - then
    hold on the front (risking pad material transfer, I know) with the
    clutch in(1) and move off with hands only, juggling throttle on, brake
    off and clutch release all at the same time. It must be damn difficult
    for a newbie and lead to stalls and falls, IWT - much easier to break
    it down as above, even if it does come across as a bit complex and
    long-winded I can see the sense of it.


    1. Defensive riding, see: if I'm in first gear, clutch in and either
    foot down (camber-dependent shortarse, I am) then if something occurs
    behind me I can give it beans, drop the clutch and **** off out of the
    way of the rear-end torpedo, avoiding what happened to dwb that
    afternoon.
     
    SIRPip, Jun 6, 2010
    #10
  11. WillF

    Catman Guest

    Ditto. IAM don't worry about the rear brake, though.



    --
    Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
    Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
    116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 GTV TS GT 3.2 V6
    Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
    www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
     
    Catman, Jun 6, 2010
    #11
  12. WillF

    Galet Guest

    Excellent choice :).

    F
     
    Galet, Jun 7, 2010
    #12
  13. WillF

    Jim Guest

    The examiner will give you a minor fault for dragging the rear brake if
    you persistently move off with the brake light showing.

    Don't get hung up on it - you're trying to learn to pass a test, and the
    expertise of the instructor isn't necessarily to argue what is right but
    just to teach you the right mindset to jump through the appropriate hoops.
     
    Jim, Jun 7, 2010
    #13
  14. WillF

    WillF Guest

    Thanks, noted.
    Will remember this, thank you.
     
    WillF, Jun 7, 2010
    #14
  15. WillF

    WillF Guest

    Thanks, Galet - it's quite tatty now, but mechanics are bullet-proof.
    I'm thinking of keeping it even if I get a proper bike, as for
    £500-600 I have something to hack through London on.

    I don't have a garage / shed, so are there any bikes I should /
    shouldn't consider buying? My budget will be £1000-£2000. I was
    thinking of maybe a TransAlp or Vstrom (if budget stretched) - someone
    said Suzukis melt away in the weather though? Alternatively a
    dualsport 250 or 400 (WR250R, DRZ400).
     
    WillF, Jun 7, 2010
    #15
  16. WillF

    Galet Guest

    This is exactly what I do... I have a T5 classic for central London.
    Ask the FOAK here and they will give you plenty of options :)!
    Personally, I'd use a CB500/GS500/ER-5 for central London. How tall are
    you? What do you plan to do with it?

    F
     
    Galet, Jun 7, 2010
    #16
  17. WillF

    WillF Guest

    5'11"

    I don't really have a "need" for it. I have a car and scooter. I would
    possibly commute instead of the scooter (10 miles from NW London to
    Fulham) but more likely just for fun, until I decide if I'm suited to
    a proper bike.

    I'd definitely want something I could sling some soft panniers over
    and get out of town for a weekend. And then possibly through Europe
    (hence the TransAlp idea).

    A pipe dream is to ride through Africa. But I'm not likely to use the
    next bike I buy for this purpose.

    CB500 is quiite likely, given the budget / that it's a first bike. I'm
    doing my DAS on the GS500, and don't have a good vibe from it.

    Will
     
    WillF, Jun 7, 2010
    #17
  18. WillF

    Galet Guest

    Whatever you decide to buy it's probably better if you try it at
    motorway speed (especially if you plan to travel).
    Doh, I'm from Golders Green (Temple Fortune). I see an L-plated PX
    on Templars Avenue, is that you ;-)?
    A friend of mine has a BMW F650GS (the engine is 800cc), he has travelled
    around Europe with his wife and a set of Givi panniers and he is really
    happy with it. I tried it and I liked it, too.
    But I'm afraid it's a bit over your budget...

    F
     
    Galet, Jun 7, 2010
    #18
  19. WillF

    Jérémy Guest

    The F650GS and the F800GS are different bikes - see the BMW web site.
     
    Jérémy, Jun 7, 2010
    #19
  20. WillF

    Lozzo Guest

    What the **** is the point of that?
     
    Lozzo, Jun 7, 2010
    #20
    1. Advertisements

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.