Drain plug stripped--self-tapping plug?

Hello,

I have a 2006 Yamaha FZ6 and decided to do an oil change myself for the
first time. It was a struggle to get that oil filter off, but I finally
put a screwdriver through it and succeeded.

However, I ended up striping the oil pan with the drain plug. *sigh*

I talked to the local Yamaha dealer and they said that I need to replace
the oil pan, which would cost nearly $300 including parts and labor.
(They sell the part for about $45 more than RonAyers.com, and wouldn't
budge on that price, along with $90/hr for 1.5 hrs.) He recommend against
Helicoils or the like, but I'm not sure why. In doing some web research,
I've read about self-tapping drain plugs for cars and bikes alike, and
people seem to accept that this is a simple, cheap, functional alternative
to replacing the pan. Another option is a special expanding rubber plug.

Are these viable options for the long term, or are they just stop-gap
solutions? I have the service manual for this bike, and it doesn't seem
*too* complicated to replace the pan if I'm not missing something. Take
off the exhaust assembly, then I can remove the oil pan itself. I believe
the only complication on the oil pan that I have to also remove is the oil
level sensor. I believe I can leave all the other stuff in that area alone
(except I need to replace the gasket). Should it be pretty simple?

I don't have much experience with mechanics, but am cautiously willing to
learn. (I just take a long time )

Any insight would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Carlin

 

Yeah, I'll agree completely. Just exactly, how did he
strip the drain plug? Certainly, this could have only
been an accident. After all, anyone willing to drive a
screwdriver through an oil filter for removal, surely
would exercise the greatest caution with the drain plug.

OP.... Take the bike to the dealer, pony up the bux to
get it fixed right, and retire from the oil change trade.


Gary

 

I've had a helicoil put in a stripped sump bolt. No worries.

best of all, when I bought a Honda 125 single that turned out to have a
stripped sump bolt (held in place with glue and tape....), I got an
engineering shop to build up the area around the drain hole with alloy
weld, and then drill and re-tap for the plug (the 125 doesn't have a
separate sump pan, you see - the drian bolt goes straight into the
crankcase.

Cost me the equivalent of about 70 bucks, admittedly some years ago.

Don't bother removing the sump pan. Any competent engineer can put in a
helicoil with it in situ. It'll cost a few dollars and yes, it will be a
permanent repair.

 

Er, for sump bolt' in the previous posting, read 'the hole it goes
into'. Obviously.

 

Did you do anything about the aluminum bits left over from
expanding and tapping the sump hole ? My inclination would
be to flush some oil through the crankcase to try to wash
any junk out.

 

I knew someone would say that!

Yes, not a bad idea, but given the oil filtration in modern engines,
probably unnecessary. Any swarf will be caught in the filter screen or
filter itself.

 

A "Time-Sert" would be a viable alternative to the classic Helicoil:

http://www.timesert.com/
[/QUOTE]

Yes, agree absolutely.

 

Hello, all,

Thanks very much for the quick replies.

I agree that I need to be careful about what work I decide to do myself.
But, we learn from our mistakes, right? I'm not sure that I want to
throw in the towel on my first mistake.

Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of Fake here--since the pan is
already damaged, I might as well try one of the replacement plug ideas
before replacing the pan.

Regarding Helicoils or Timecerts, I found Timecerts to be $60-80, which is
almost as much as the new pan. I'm thinking a cheaper simple solution
would make more sense, then replace the pan if that fails.

BTW, I stripped it by overtightening. Yes, I should use the torque wrench
I have. I didn't realize it would strip _that_ easily.

Thanks,
Carlin

 

Grease on the tap will capture the swarf and gravity is on your side anyway.

 

Your Bike is new, have it fixed professsinally and then buy an old
junker to practiceon.
Bg

 

Just taking a wild guess here but maybe next time you should use a
wrench/socket with a shorter HANDLE ???? If your hand is pretty much on
top of the socket, it's pretty hard to strip much of anything. Torque
wrench is good too! ;-)

 

Got a chuckle from that!
Is your bike still under warranty?
If yes, and you value that warranty at all, you will think twice before
making any non-standard repairs.

 

Those are both good points. I got the bike used and it is out of
factory warranty. However, the previous owner got a third-party warranty
until 2010.

Perhaps I should bite the bullet on the $300 repair in case something
_really_ bad happens down the line, so that I can still use that
warranty...

I really appreciate everyone's input! Lots of good info and suggestions
from all angles.

Carlin

 

Do you really, really think that repairing a stripped thread will
invalidate a warranty (Apart from if it fails and blows the engine,
which it won't)?

"My brake caliper has disintegrated due to a faulty casting"

"Well, you used a timesert in the sump, didn't you?"

 

Yes, *but you don't need to remove the pan*. Or anything else. I don't
know whether you need to remove the exhaust to drop the pan on your
bike, but you certainly do on some.

And you quoted $300 for the sump replacement.

A timesert replacement, here, is a few pounds/dollars. Including the
dirlling and tapping, it's maybe £20. Anyone charging you $80 is having
a laugh.

Don't fanny about - get the thread repaired, and ride.

 

Agreed. Get a professional to repair the thread.

 

I can. I can foresee that you'll make another silly posting. Just for
the record - it won't invalidate the warranty.

 

Agree, but there's still *no need* to remove the pan.

Timeserts and helicoils are things that I actually enjoy using,
because they're so simple, so tough (as you say), and effect a
permanent repair. In fact, you've reminded me that I've only got one
or two left, so I'd better get another kit, I think.

 

I could be wrong, but does'nt the filter sit downstream
from the pump so the pump can pressurize it ? More
of a theoretical/religious objection than anything else.
You'd probably get away with it with no problem.

Also, it's way easy to drill out a hole slightly off from 90
degrees. Probably not a big deal for a drain plug with
crush washer, but can be an enormous problem in some
helicoil applications such as for long cylinder studs.

Considering the OP's skill level, I think he might do
better to drop the pan, bring it to a shop that knows
what they're doing, then figure out how to get the
pan bolted back in place. Probably less challenging
than a helicoil.

 

Given his skill level, I don't think he ought to touch the thing
himself, not at all.