drum brakes squeaky after rain

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by Mark, Feb 18, 2007.

  1. Mark

    Mark Guest

    Hi All,

    I've got a 1985 Yamaha SR250 with drum brakes front and rear. I've
    noticed something weird in that after it has rained, the brakes will
    make a sqeal and really bite, causing a shock to the suspension.
    After a little while this subsides, so usually I brake very gently as
    I go down the driveway and a short way up the road, and then the
    brakes will be back to normal. It's as is water has gotten into the
    drum somehow, but this still happens when the bike is under shelter,
    ie in my garage. Does anyone know what to do about this? Is it
    possible that the drums are not sealed properly and the pads are
    somehow absorbing water from humid air?

    Thanks,

    -- Mark
     
    Mark, Feb 18, 2007
    #1
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  2. Mark

    Boxer Guest

    Use them very strongly occasionally to remove any glazing on the shoes,
    alternatively use some sandpaper on them to the same effect.

    Boxer
     
    Boxer, Feb 18, 2007
    #2
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  3. Mark

    atec 77 Guest

    Condensation
     
    atec 77, Feb 18, 2007
    #3
  4. Mark

    BT Humble Guest

    Every vehicle I've ever owned with front drum brakes[1] has been like
    that - I think it's due to condensation inside the drums.

    My Datsun ute was the worst, because it had a vaccum brake booster.
    Leaving home on rainy mornings it would always lock up the brakes at
    the first application, howerver slowly you were going or how gently
    you applied them. It was generally OK once it'd thrown its little
    tantrum though.

    My current truck[2] has disks at the front, but I still notice a
    little bit of "grabbiness" from the rear drums when using the brakes
    for the first time on a wet day.

    My advice is to be aware that it's going to happen, and be prepared
    for it. It sounds like you've already got that one covered
    though. ;-)




    BTH
    [1] 1966 VW Beetle, 1977 Datsun LWB ute, 2 x Honda CT90
    [2] 1989 Ford Econovan LWB
     
    BT Humble, Feb 18, 2007
    #4
  5. In aus.motorcycles on 17 Feb 2007 18:41:19 -0800
    back to normal as in useless? Or was that just my SR250....

    None of my drum brakes squeal in the wet, and I don't recall the SR
    doing it. Perhaps you need to rough up the shoes some?

    They do all sometimes bite, that tends to be an adjustment thing.
    Except for the Old Girl's front 4LS which apparently is designed to do
    it.


    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, Feb 18, 2007
    #5
  6. Mark

    Mad-Biker Guest

    that would be rust its scraping off.
     
    Mad-Biker, Feb 18, 2007
    #6
  7. Mark

    FOG Guest

    Yup, rust. most (all)drum brakes have cast iron, shrunk in liners and these
    rust very quickly. It is only a light coating of rust that takes a couple of
    brake applications to polish off, and makes the brakes "Grabby" for the
    first couple of uses.
    The squealing could be just an effect of the rust or a bit of dust in the
    drum. This is normal for a drum brake. You may like to pull the front wheel
    out and blow the dust out, be careful not to breath in the dust, wear a mask
    as old type brake linings were made of asbestos but I doubt if a 1985 model
    bike will have linings made of this, best to be careful though.
    While you have the brake out, just check how thick the linings are, the
    linings should be about 3 m.m. thick.
    Have a look for any part of the actual shoe touching the inside of the drum.
    I wonder if the brake has ever had a new set of shoes?
    Have fun.

    ...
     
    FOG, Feb 18, 2007
    #7
  8. Mark

    Mark Guest

    Very interesting. Thanks everyone for the answers, it's good to know
    there's not a serious problem with the brakes.

    Zebee - I've found the braking pretty good overall. I did an advanced
    riders course and where they give you benchmarks for stopping and I
    was meeting them which was good to know given some of the disc-
    equipped bikes weren't. Do you still have an SR?

    Once when I was riding home in heavy rain, I put the rear brake on and
    it locked on, making me go for a slide (was lucky it wasn't worse)
    and then having to remove the heavily bent brake pushrod to be able to
    get the bike wheeling again. I wonder now whether that was an extreme
    case of the condensation/rust thing...

    Cheers all,

    -- Mark
     
    Mark, Feb 19, 2007
    #8
  9. In aus.motorcycles on 19 Feb 2007 12:45:22 -0800
    No, I only had it for a year or so. The brakes on that one were truly
    awful and no amount of adjusting would help. Cheap and nasty.


    Zebee
     
    Zebee Johnstone, Feb 19, 2007
    #9
  10. Mark

    Shep© Guest

    What he said and also lubricate the Brake cam actuator carefully with
    some Moly Grease on it's lobes and though the housing.Clean off all
    excess so none can ever get on the shoes etc.
    Also chamfer the leading edges when you take the glaze off the shoes
    and make sure your Rear brake actuator arm is fully free and
    lubricated to release the brakes.

    HTH :)
     
    Shep©, Feb 21, 2007
    #10
  11. Mark

    FOG Guest

    I posted this reply with a graphics file in it and it did not seem to show
    in some newsreaders, is this usual? why did it not show with the pic.
    Thanks.
    FOG.


    "Once when I was riding home in heavy rain, I put the rear brake on and
    This sounds a bit more dramatic, the brake should not lock on like that, you
    weren't jumping on the pedal, were you? no, I didn't think so.
    Have a look at the rear brake and see lf the lever that is on the brake
    plate has any markings behind it that indicate wear limits.
    Do you have a manual for the bike? if not, try and get one.
    If the arm on the rear brakearm is pointing forward, (Item 6) past the
    vertical by a lot, then it could mean that the brake shoes are worn past
    their safe limit, what is the adjustment like on the rear brake rod ?(The
    push rod as you called it, item 7, it is actually a pull rod, or brake rod,
    but the action is a pull .) if the adjuster nut is screwed a long way down
    the rod, that would indicate that the shoe are worn.
    It sounds to me like that could be the problem with the rear brake as for
    the brake to jam on like that is quite drastic and very dangerous and
    indicates that the shoes could be jamming on the drum.
    Another thing to check is the condition of the brake anchor arm, or if you
    can see the pic. "Brake stopper arm" (Japlish!)(If you can see the attached
    pic, it is item 1) This should be bolted in about the position you can see
    in the pic. and should be bolted to the frame or swing arm obout a foot or
    18" forward of the brake. Make sure it is secured properly.
    After reading your post, I think you should definitely have a more detailed
    look at the brakes.
    Good luck.
    FOG.
     
    FOG, Feb 21, 2007
    #11
  12. Mark

    Goaty Guest

    Many newsgroups, including this one are non-binary. Posts with embedded
    graphics, etc will be tossed on the floor by newsserver software. Host
    it somewhere and post the URL.

    Cheers
    Goaty
    --
    _--_|\ John Lamp - in beautiful downtown Highton
    / \ IRC: DoD#:1906 Ulysses#:10185 Vulcan Nomad
    \_.--._/ http://www.gorider.cjb.net/ Phone: 0409 512 254
    v mailto: Fax: 03 5227 2151

    Hear no Evo, See no Evo, Fear no Evo
     
    Goaty, Feb 22, 2007
    #12
  13. Mark

    T.J. Dunster Guest

    O.k. thanks for the info.
    FOG.
     
    T.J. Dunster, Feb 22, 2007
    #13
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