Electrics back-to-front- thank you FOAK

Discussion in 'Classic Motorbikes' started by Wizard, Jun 15, 2004.

  1. Wizard

    Wizard Guest

    I asked the Fount Of All Knowledge about an electrical problem last year
    ( http://makeashorterlink.com/?I23D51098 ).

    Various adventures held up work on a fix, but an imminent MoT prompted a
    delivery of tuits last weekend.

    Step forward and take a bow Sweller and Timo of this parish, who
    suggested working on contacts with electric switch cleaner.

    I'd been positively dreading the prospect of spending some hours with a
    multimeter checking out all the various wires for continuity. In fact,
    it worked out quite quick and painless.

    All the problems were to do with lights in the instrument cluster. So I
    followed the loom leading from there, and under the tank was a block
    connector.

    All the problems were to do with things controlled by the switchgear on
    the LHS handlebar. So I followed the loom from there, and under the tank
    was another block connector.

    Tank off, and I fearlessly opened up the connectors- probably for the
    first time since someone in Japan did them up in 1978- and had a look.
    Guess what, the first one did have a load of corrosion, probably enough
    to conduct from one pin to another. The second one had a little
    corrosion, but nowhere near as much.

    So, on with the rubber gloves, *squirt* *squirt* with the Electric
    Switch Cleaner, rub-a-dub-dub with a few cotton buds (which soon showed
    I'd shifted a *lot* of crap).

    Reconnect connectors, start bike up, all lights are working as designed.

    A bit of the One True Tape round the connectors to keep the elements
    out, tank back on, job's a good'un.

    I is a Happy Bunny, I is.

    Now, fingers crossed for the front forks...
     
    Wizard, Jun 15, 2004
    #1
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  2. Wizard

    Lozzo Guest

    Rope says...
    The little hole in the bottom of the master cylinder, the one that
    allows fluid back into the resevoir is likely to be blocked with shit.
    Fluid is being pumped down the lines, but can't come back up when lever
    pressure is reduced, thereby making the brakes stick. Remove M/cyl, and
    drain, and use a hypodermic syringe filled with brake fluid to pump the
    shit out. Clean and reassemble, bleed brakes and away you go.

    This used to happen on my RDs quite alot.
     
    Lozzo, Jun 15, 2004
    #2
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