Elefanteers and Fabrication types

See these:
http://www.mv-motorrad.de/cosmoshop/lshop,showdetail,13240,e,1105803788-30287,,10107,,,.htm

At £85 they're a bit steep for one off usage.

However, How difficult would it be to fabricate, say, 20 ish (for 4
bikes) of the metal claws, or at least something similar?

With two slots/holes [1] they could then be attached to the tyre using
FOAD cable tyres for the short time they'd be in use.


[1] ASCII Art Alert:

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Having thought about it a little bit....

How practical is cutting to length that strapping that gets used in the
building trade (I used to use it in banger racing) - it has ~4mm holes
pre-drilled in a staggered pattern.

A number of short pan head machine screws could be inserted into the
holes (and welded into place to speed production) creating a band of
studs, the strap given a curve to match the tyre profile and then cable
tied into place in a similar way to the commercial claws.

 

Does the FOAK know what the proper name for toothed channel section
is? I mean a channel section, with the sides in a serrated pattern.
We could cut tyre-width lengths and strap them to the tyres.

 

"bloody hell"

 

Could one use a section of toothed drive-belt, reversed, flatside
against tyre, tensioned up with the FOAD cable ties (mentioned
somewhere else). Mr angle-grinder could help carve out rows of teeth,
iyswim. Wouldnt be hard wearing, but how much snow riding are you
intending on doing? Its a cheap possibility.

 

This year some of the Italians were just putting cable ties onto their
rear tyes.

Personally I'd be a little cautious of having good(ish) grip at the back
and crap grip at the front- I think this could well provoke an accident.

We need sidecars. Not sure but I think that I'm going to try to find a
larger chair and hang it on the Pan or the K11.

 

That's actually a bloody good idea. Use 2nd-hand car timing belts and make
the sections long enough that you can just tag the ends together with a bolt
and washers.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, sweller

I don't know if this has been pointed out lately; if so, forgive the
repetition:

You are quite, quite mad.

Barking, howl-at-the-moon, careful-with-that-axe-Eugene mad.

 

AOL
Deadmail had it spot on wondering about the lack of front end grip.

I've been here, putting self tappers into trials tyres.

 

Sidecars or trikes.

Trail bikes would be OK if the journey wasn't as long and if the
conditions didn't demand decent tents, airbeds/whatever.

 

Thats what I'm thinking, cheap materials and with your bolts you could
really tension them up... A bit of inner tube to stop the bolts from
grinding against the wheel paintwork...

Now, how do we incorporate rubber eggs and glove-puppets into the
equation?

 

Plenty of lube.

 

With very limited success.

I don't agree, the problem I had was rear traction. The rear would slide
out putting strain on the front as I tried to correct the back end.

Once the plot was moving forward in a straight line it was ok as long as
I kept the rear gripping.

 

Except, possibly, the rubber teeth would be in line with the rotation and
provide less grip. We need the straps to bite into the ice not slide
over it.

 

****. Them.

http://www.mondoenduro.com/terracirca.html

 

Are you sure you don't need counselling after your trauma?

 

I think it's the length of motorway travel that puts me off the idea of
a transalp or whatever. Plus in the mid-winter I want a decent fairing
on the bike.

 

How about strips of weldmesh, nice and pliable and plenty grippiness in
all directions.

Bond on some strips of old inner tube to the inside and bolt together
with a big wingnut for ease of use with numb fingers

--
Dan L

Too much time to think, too little to do.


http://thebikeshed.spaces.live.com/
1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr

BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005/6/7)
X-FOT#000
DIAABTCOD #26
BOMB#18 (slow)
OMF#11

 

I didn't hang around to check...

My problem was the front slipping around. The back seemed fine but then
again I had a narrower tyre on a heavy bike with loads of weight
directly over it which might have helped me? I guess the K's geometry
at the front (tall, long bendy forks) probably doesn't help here.

 

Dan's weldmesh idea maybe the top one ATM.