ER-5 off the road

FUCKING **** **** **** FUCKING BASTARD FUCKING **** **** FUCKING SHIT
FACED **** BASTARD **** FANNY WANKER BOLLOCKS **** FUCKING SHIT SHIT
BASTARD FACED SHITTY **** BASTARD **** FUCKING BASTARD SHIT SHIT
BASTARD **** **** FUCKING **** BASTARD.

**** IT.

I CANNOT PUT INTO WORDS HOW PISSED OFF I AM.

BASTARD.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, BGN amazed us all with this pearl of wisdom:

Got a puncture?

 

Go on. Try.

 

The petrol goes in that little hole in the tank...

HTH

 

I'm note quite ready to describe it yet.

I'm going to shove more food in my mouth, go outside and then do
something. I will then return and try to... Oh, I don't know.

Words escape me.

I need a poet to describe it.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, BGN amazed us all with this pearl of wisdom:

Go and have a wank if you can't find a poet.

 

You've binned it again, haven't you? Or else tried to service it, and
buggered it entirely.

I've got a nice GPz550, if you're interested ;-))

 

Kill switch?

 

Kawasaki manual says:

"Drive Chain Slack
Chain Slack Adjustment

Remove the safety clip from the torque link nut (Done)

Loosen the rear torque link nut.
CAUTION: DO NOT FORGET TO LOOSEN THE TORQUE LINK NUT."

I would but the FUCKER WILL NOT BUDGE. I'm starting to round the end
off of the nut, it's that tight. I've almost emptied a can of WD40 on
it. I've undone the other end and moved it but that doesn't let me
move the torque link nut.

I am unable to loosen the chain without movig this fucking torque link
nut.

It might as well be welded on.

 

You've binned it again, haven't you? Or else tried to service it, and
buggered it entirely.[/QUOTE]

Should adjusting the drive chain be SUCH A PROBLEM?

OH. THE ANGER. THE RAGE. It has awoken something in me.

Is a non-moving nut a good reason to get a new bike?

 

Did anyone tell you that you have a way with words?

 

It'll be corroded then. Go and do something else before you get angry
and break it. I take it, it's a nut that goes on a stud? Both nut and
stud are steel? Or is it a bolt that goes into alloy?

 

Drum brake appears to be alloy, nut and bolt could be steel, but for
the purposes of chain adjustment they might as well be the same block
of metal.

 

Heat. Lots of it.

 

It has been for me - I just leave it alone now and let the shop do it when
it's serviced.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, BGN amazed us all with this pearl of wisdom:

THE ACCLAIM

'It it wiv an 'ammer.

 

I've put the nut on it and tightened it a bit so it wont fall off and
have now abandoned the bike outside the house otherwise I'm just going
to get even more angry and kick the fucker over.

The nut and stud and the steel bar which holds the rear brake in
position seem to have become a new form of life that Does Not Budge
even after a can of WD40 has been emptied on it.

When I tried to loosen the chain (turned adjuster nuts wrong way) the
bar was under so much stress that it pushed the sprocked backwards so
that the chain got even tighter and is now so tight that I dare not
ride it as it's bound to just snap. I can't loosen it because the bar
doesn't want to be under any more pressure.

That bar/torque link nut has been under so much stress/pressure for so
long that I think some bizarre chemical reaction has taken place. I
doubt that the torque link nut has ever been loosened in the life of
the bike.

 

Done that. Nothing.

 

The Older Gentleman emerged from their own little world to say

<snigger>

Hythe would resemble a Portugese forest in no time.

Try using something other than an open ended spanner from the bike toolkit
first.

 

Are you attempting to undo it in the right direction?

<ducks>

--
Lesley
CBR600FW
SBS#11 (with oak-leaf cluster)
BOTAFOT#101A UKRMHRC#12
BONY#54P BOB#18
Real burds don't take hormones, they rage naturally
http://www.wisewebservices.co.uk/lmp/