ER-5 off the road

Whinging Courier emerged from their own little world to say

I refer the dishonourable member to the previous replies to his erroneous
opinion.

 

In uk.rec.motorcycles, wessie amazed us all with this pearl of wisdom:

Grrrr...

<Grits teeth>

 

What year is your ER5? Mine's a D1. The manual stresses in bold
lettering that you MUST loosen that nut, and I agree with it.

 

BGN says...

Gas-axe the bastard.

 

Gas-axe?

 

BGN wrote

Quick fix toy for those with no patience or artistic soul.

Angle Grinder, YKIMS

 

Getting the pads out of your rear brake. Remember?

 

I have tried to deduce what's going on here and might have
got a rough idea by now.

First, there is nothing inherently wrong with that bolt and
nut. And drum brakes are easy to work on. Any bolting that
is used outdoors needs grease (or an anti size like copaslip)
during assembly. If this is neglected, any and all fasteners
turn into major problems, especially to the inexperienced.

Second, the reason that nut is secured with pin is that it
is not meant to be tightened very hard. Yours seems to be
so tight that you can not rotate the torque stay in
relation to the brake shield. If that nut was not tightened
excessively you would be able to adjust your chain slack
without worrying about the torque stray (that's why the
BoL does not mention it).

Third, WD40 is a general light lubricant and water
dispersant, not a penetrating oil. To free up a corroded
fastener, you can use (usually with rather disappointing
result) a penetrating oil and then you must wait for hours
or days before trying to free the bolt or nut.

If you showed any sign of understanding mechanical
things I'd say that the problem is easily solved by
total destruction of the original bolt and nut, put any
old bolt in there temporarily and then ride to your
dealer and get the replacement parts. As things stand,
I'll join the choir and say "get a man in".

This whole process is not negative, it's a good thing
called "learning".

 

BGN? He'z just ziz guy, you know?

If its just a nut & bolt drill the fucker out.

Get a couple of nice new sharp drill bits.

It sounds like you'll have to drill the head off the bolt, as thats
accessible, which isn't hard to do.

It'll be a damn sight quicker than struggling to undo the undoable, use
a drill thats smaller than the head of the bolt but larger than the 8mm
thread, say 10mm, and then you'll have the remains of the head of the
bolt to take down to a hardware store to get new nut & bolt & washer.

 

<Applause>

 

Everything is for sale, it may just cost more than its worth )

 

I'm starting to wonder whether this whoile thread is an elaborate hoax
- can you really be so inept that you can't sort out a simple nut &
bolt? And if you can't, how much do you think you'll get for what is
effectively a non-runner?

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
\`\ | /`/ GSX-R1000K3
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2
`\|/`
`

 

The nut & bolt would appear to not be all that simple.

 

While trying to bodge the bike back into a usable state I appear to
have got some movement out of That Bar. Movement in a bad way, in
that it's now pointing downwards and is now tighter than ever.

To get it back to how it originally was I have now removed the rear
wheelso that I can get some leverage on The Bar to force it back to
where it was before but it looks like it's so very, very stuck in this
fixed position that I'm going to have trouble doing anything without
bending The Bar, which isn't a good thing.

I've got the weekend off, and as the bike is in a pretty stationary
state I'm going to run around a few shops locally and see if they have
a nut splitter/crusher or the like so they can destroy it.

Learning is good, but not always a fun experience.

 

Rejoice! Victory!

I called a friend with a clue who has tools and he spent the last two
hours working on it. After using every tool known to him, the only
way he got it off was to file the whole thing off and then punch it
through.

A new nut & bolt are in place as a very temporary measure. I'll put
the wheel back on tomorrow and then hop along to a dealer to ask them
to order me a suitable replacement bolt.

It was quite pleasing to see that someone with a clue took such a long
time to do it. It's reassuring that I wasn't going about it the wrong
way.

 

We now return you to our regularly scheduled mayhem.

 

If I saw someone going near any bike of mine with an angle grinder I'd
chin them and take the bike somewhere else.

 

I've used a dremel on my Bandit and my FZR to good effect. Never my
angle grinder though, far too course for what I had to do.

 

It's the adjacent parts getting side-swiped by the angle grinder that
would worry me.

They're crude lumps of shit usually used by crude lumps of shit to do
jobs that require a minimal amount of skill.

 

I wouldn't want to slip when cutting anything near a brake line for
example.

They're great for cutting up old shit to throw in the bin though, and
for using with crude shitty arc welders.