FOAK: Together, forever... Tyre beads stuck to alloy rims, that is.

Next phase in the great de-clutter is shifting any unwanted Morini
stuff. No TOG, that's not all of it!

Two 180mm rear hubs have already been sold, so that left me with the
rims they were cut out from. Both Akront alloy non-valanced variety. Not
much value but worth a punt on Ebay for local pickup.

Both shod with Dunlop KR124 racing tyres. Both been sat in an old
greenhouse for ten years. Not worth enough to warrant GAMI with a proper
bead breaking machine. No way my Heyco, from a BMW tool kit, tyre levers
are going to slip between tyre and rim. Conscious of that recent thread
about tyres and angle-grinders I set about it with my trusty Opinel lock
knife. With a fair amount of effort that removed the majority of the
carcass. Much swearing and prising eventually got the remaining bead off
one side. The other is immovable. The tyre was full of water, and the
bead wires and rim have sort of welded together.

Best strategy for removal? No solutions involving naked flames please.
Brute force with sharp implements risks damaging the rim or even denting
it, seeing as it has no hub or spokes. Anything I can soak the join with
that might unstick it?


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

I've got a pikey Dremel copy, but I'm cautious of using the cutoff wheel
that came with it.

Hmm. Might be worth sourcing something similar locally.

If it wasn't for having got the one side off without inflicting too much
damage on me or the rim I would just take them both to the tip. They
would suit someone building a Forgotten Era Morini race on a tight
budget, with a view to racing it rather than just posing. Everyone seems
to want to build gleaming beasts with Borrani type valance rims though.

The rather shabby Rotarini used to get some disapproving looks in the
paddock. Not so disapproving when I was collecting my pots.



--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

http://www.feinmultimaster.co.uk/fein_multimaster.htm

Far handier than it looks...............

 

I *would* have suggested a G-clamp and a couple of pieces of wood, but
it seems you're beyond that stage now.

Tig arc. It's the only... what? Oh, all right.

Dremel on the bead wires? I assume that there is at least *some*
rubber between the bead wire and the rim. I've never tried this, BTW.

 

Probably should have tried that first. I have an old wood working vice
that might achieve the same effect, but the adhesion is into the space
shuttle heat shield tiles league. Oh, hold on...

I've exposed the wires in one place, but I can't get to them properly
with my side-cutters.

Might be worth a go with a better cut off wheel than I have, FOAD gloves
and a welder's mask with clear glass in it. I've read too many HSAW
horror stories. Like the one when someone decide to weld a wheel with
the tyre still on it.


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Had this problem once or twice. It was a mistake to cut off the carcass,
I'll tell you that.

I put a plank of wood on the tyre, by the bead, and drove a car onto it.
All you need to do is crack one bit of stuck bead, and then you can get
a tool in and it'll just peel off (albeit with some force).

If you can get a screwdriver blade in carefully, make a small break in
the bead, and then use a small tyre lever, then a bigger one...

 

"One-handed precision tool for universal use in an unlimited range of
applications."
Really? That's a bold claim - I tried re-tuning my Freeview box with it
and now they are both fucked.

 

In communiqué <1j7dtqm.1abbougrml4qcN%>,

Now you tell me!

Anyway, it's off. May be sheer luck, but I thought, "what don't you ever
want to get on rubber because it makes it go all soft ?"

Ran some petrol round the bead/rim interface and went for a cuppa. One
moderately hard clout on the remaining bead with a blunt drift and an
ommer and they parted company at that point. A tyre lever achieved the
rest. I'll try squeezing strategies on the other one.

--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Aaah - just like a teenage date - squeezing and hugging while trying
to gently prise off knickers.

 

Look. Its bad enough that I have to eat a sad single person ready to eat
when heated meal while reading newsgroups because I'm home on me own
with the kids out and the wife at the eldest daughters without having
people causing me to snort the afore mentioned sad single person ready
to eat when heated meal into the recesses of my keyboard............

 

*cough*

I did once tack a patch onto the outside of the boot floor of my old
Austin1100, quite forgetting that I'd left my drill ln the boot.

First (actually, only) time I've ever used a fire extinguisher for
real. The drill itself was OK; it was the coiled mains lead
(thankfully disconnected) that went up in smoke.

 

Yep, it's have been far easier to break the bead seal with the rest of
the tryre in place. Gives you a few more options.

Like you say, he's dived in now and carved it up :/

Paul.

 

Ah, I was going to suggest ace-t-one but you seem to have hit on
a similar solution. <IGMC...>

--
Ivan Reid, School of Engineering & Design, _____________ CMS Collaboration,
Brunel University. Ivan.Reid@[brunel.ac.uk|cern.ch] Room 40-1-B12, CERN
GSX600F, RG250WD "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 JKLO#003, 005
WP7# 3000 LC Unit #2368 (tinlc) UKMC#00009 BOTAFOT#16 UKRMMA#7 (Hon)
KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".

 

How fucking much?
I don't see it mentioning pack of 10 or even 5.
They're taking the piss.

 

Exactly.

This one:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MINI-DIAMOND-DISC-SET-x3-SLOT-CUTTER-SCREW-
DOCTOR_W0QQitemZ260486787568

on the other hand, has three discs and a mandrel for a couple of quid,
is steel with chips of diamond stuck to it and let me tell you, lasts
forever compared to any of the sintered carborundum types. Cuts
fibreglass with ease and runs through mild steel nuts very quickly. I
don't use anything else, any more.

 

I've gone through several of the reinforced wheels - I keep the
remainder for when there is no alternative, now. They're great when you
need a bigger-diameter wheel, for a deeper cut. They're equally good
when you have the item to be cut on the bench and can exert precise
pressure control.

They are, however, fuckall use when you're in a confined space or an
awkward position. Neither are they any good if you accidentally exert
even a small sideways pressure on them. They don't like plastic much,
either - it melts and jams the disc, which then becomes one with the
plastic. Grooving wooden spigots for glueing isn't one of their strong
points, either.

I'll keep a couple on the box, but the slot-cutting diamond wheel is a
permanent fixture in one of my Dremels as it does pretty much anything I
want it to, that can't be done with a full-sized angle grinder: cutting
(just about anything); slotting (steel, plastic, wood, fibreglass (all
at full speed)); even small-area sanding against the face of the disc.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Pip

<VBG>

 

<shrugs>

You know how it goes: one hammer, two hammers, sixteen fucking hammers
keeping your fourteen #2 Pozi screwdrivers company, along with the three
angle grinders (one cutting, one grinding, one FOAD) and the three
welders (MIG, MMA, spare) and let's not forget the zillion clamps and
grips ('cos Norm says "A man can never have too many clamps" - and he's
right, goddammit) ... and when you're doing wood as well there's mallets
and chisels and sandpaper and all the various glues and varnishes ....

It never ends.

Toolporn to the PEOPLE!!

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Pip

I read a lovely story ages ago about someone who visited Isaac Asimov's
house, and noticed the two electric typewriters (in case one breaks).
"But Isaac, why the manual typewriter too?"

"What is there's a power cut?"

 

I had to hold myself back from spending 850 quid on a new much larger
toolchest the other day, because what I have tool-wise wouldn't quite
fill it. It didn't get bought because I knew I'd have to spend another
grand on more tools just to fill the gaps or I wouldn't sleep at night.