FOAK - Wheel lacquer removal

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Steve, Jul 15, 2006.

  1. Steve

    Steve Guest

    The wheels on the GTS are a bit scabby , so before I set to with the
    polishing mops and the black and decker what is he best way of removing the
    old lacquer . Chemicals , wet and dry , elbow grease?


    Steve, Jul 15, 2006
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  2. Steve

    Beav Guest



    VN 750
    Zed 1000
    OMF# 19
    Beav, Jul 15, 2006
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  3. Steve

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Glass bead blasting.

    Well, you *did* ask about the best way...

    Otherwise, I'd be tempted to clean up the surface, rough it up a tad and
    blow it over with some fresh paint.
    Timo Geusch, Jul 16, 2006
  4. Steve

    FooBar Guest

    The general consensus seems to be, that brake fluid (traditional DOT 4)
    will dissolve just about any kind of paint/lacquer - so maybe..!?

    Disclaimer: I haven't tested DOT 4 as a paint-stripper, so I wouldn't
    know if it only works when applied accidentally! :-|

    - Just a thought...

    FooBar, Jul 16, 2006
  5. Steve

    Pip Guest

    Yes, it will. However, brake fluid is expensive and nasty 'orrible
    stuff to boot. For stripping a wheel with the tyre still on it has a
    certain merit, as brake fluid is designed to be in contact with rubber
    and therefore won't attack the tyre whereas a dedicated stripper may.
    I'd always use a purpose-designed tool (in this case a pukka stripper)
    in preference to a wrong 'un or a bodge. In this case, where the work
    is elective and non-urgent, I'd wait until I had a can of Nitromors or
    similar ready.

    Could do with a signature separator in here, Santa ...
    ... then you wouldn't leave the nice people who reply to you
    the task of manually removing your sig from the end of your posts.
    Ask for one for Christmas, or perhaps just save dashdashspacereturn as
    the top line of your .sig.
    Pip, Jul 16, 2006
  6. Steve

    FooBar Guest

    Good point...
    Even better point!

    *Crawls shamefully back under rock*
    FooBar, Jul 16, 2006
  7. Steve

    Pip Guest

    Aye, first. Then it depends on the replacement for the "scabby
    lacquer". Wet and dry - naah, not with a power drill and polishing
    mops/compounds available.

    One should bear in mind that bare alloy polished bits look really good
    when shiny, but require a fair amount of upkeep. Lacquer protects the
    finish and is a fucksight easier to keep clean, but won't stick to a
    highly polished surface very well for very long. Better to leave a
    slightly rough surface as a key for a coating. Not so shiny, but
    easier to maintain.

    A big question when polishing wheels is always - as with so many
    things - where to stop. Polishing rims is one thing, spokes another
    altogether. If leaving the rough-cast centre line and spokes painted
    or lacquered, a clean line between polish and coating is preferable
    but not always easy to achieve. I've employed a strip of masking
    tape, cut through to the substrate with a /sharp/ blade to the desired
    line in the past to good effect.

    Any way around there's a deal of elbow grease in the future of the OP.
    Steve would have been far better off swapping his V-Max for my shiny
    Bandit, with wheels already anodised and polished ;-)
    Pip, Jul 16, 2006
  8. Steve

    Pip Guest

    That made me smile ;-)
    Pip, Jul 16, 2006
  9. Steve

    Cab Guest

    He's heard about you before! :)
    Cab, Jul 16, 2006
  10. Steve

    Beav Guest

    Me and the boy-chic sent his wheels to have them polished after having a
    chat with the polisher who SAID he's use a chemical strpiper on the rims
    (not the spokes), then titivate them with the mops. Wasn't the fucking case
    though. When they came back, they'd been sorely abused with a **** off big
    polisher and the rims are all shapes. I spent the best part of a day with
    800's wet and dry, followed by 2000's before they were REALLY reasy for
    plishing again. I even did the last part by hand. I wish I'd done the lot
    myself after seeing 'em.

    If the surface is *really really* flat before the final polishing, the time
    between Autosol treatments drops by a magnitude though. There are also some
    products on the market that claim to reduce the need to use metal polish for
    two years (Zoopseal being one). I can't say I've a lot of confidence in them
    though, as they don't work worth a shit and at 100 quid a pop for a
    "treatment box", they're not cheap either.

    Lacquer protects the
    I spoke to Lechler about that. They say they have a clear coat that *does*
    stay put on polished ali, but on further investigation it's just their
    commercial lacquer normally used for lorries. I've yet to try that.

    Better to leave a
    Polish then a quick once over with a GREY Scotch-brite pad. Not red, unless
    you want to start all over again.
    He:) So true.

    If leaving the rough-cast centre line and spokes painted
    I now use 3M fine-line tape. It's leaves a razor line and it's easy to
    maintain the correct edge when applying it too.
    But he wouldn't have that wonderful feeling of "Thank **** *that's*


    VN 750
    Zed 1000
    OMF# 19
    Beav, Jul 16, 2006
  11. Steve

    Steve Guest

    On 16/7/06 10:26, in article ,
    Sorry 'bout that - scabby wheels aside the GTS is lovely.Even went straight
    through the MOT yesterday :)

    Steve, Jul 16, 2006
  12. Steve

    Hog Guest

    I have once succeeded having a clear expoy powder coat done on some matt
    polished ally which was quite nice and lasted the course.
    Hog, Jul 16, 2006
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