Fork seals

Changing fork seals....is it difficult? PS its the dreaded MZ 150
again ! Sorry...!

 

It's a relatively easy job *if* you have the right tools and know what
to do (same as anything, really). The hard job can be separating the
leg and stanchion. Oh, and also, for the newbie, getting the new seals
in square.

Top tip - heat up the leg in the oven to about 100 degrees C before
removing/fitting the old/new seal(s). It makes the job a lot easier.

 

Itym Araldite.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

Teach a man to fish and he and his pikey mates will have the
river cleaned out in a day.

 

And fer ****'s sake make sure the bike isn't sitting on the front wheel
when you take the second fork cap nut off.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

Teach a man to fish and he and his pikey mates will have the
river cleaned out in a day.

 

Yebbut superglue often isn't too resistant to water and may just fall
off.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

Teach a man to fish and he and his pikey mates will have the
river cleaned out in a day.

 

That's just stupid. I mean, that would be as stupid as remembering your
bike tilted backwards on the centre stand when you remove the front
wheel, thus not requiring the use of a front paddock stand. Remembering
that would be fine, but then just as the bike falls to the floor[1]
forwards when you remove the front wheel you remember something else -
that you filled it up with petrol on the last ride - thus changing the
CoG sufficiently to make the tilt a forward one.

[1] No damage luckily

 

Different types, I suspect, then. I've certainly had superglued stuff
fail when wet.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

Teach a man to fish and he and his pikey mates will have the
river cleaned out in a day.

 

Do you need to?

If it's just weeping rather than gushing then simply removing the
stanchion and wiping the seal and rebuilding with fresh oil (ATF) should
do it.