Go on then..

Whats the secret to removing your old brake discs?.. Using just a Hex-key
socket, I can feel the bolt beginning to deform...

So:

Heat?
Or if I had a compressor and Impact wrench, would this likely release the
buggers?

Or a mixture of the both?...

Or soak in Plus Gas for a week?...

Go on then, I know someone who wants to sell me a compressor rather cheap
(well, half a days labour..), so this gives me the perfect opportunity..

Bear in mind that although Im not a complete muppet when it comes to
mechanicals, I have limited experience, and do have a horrid tendency to
**** things up first time round. Some would call this educational. I just
call it Expensive :-(

 

Whats the secret to removing your old brake discs?.. Using just a Hex-key

If they are through the steel into the alloy of a wheel then put a drift
into the centre of the allen screw socket hole and tap smartly with a hammer
to "release" the alloy affinity to the steel which holds the damn thing
secure.

If it's Loctited then gentle localised heat will assist in destroying the
bond.

More likely shear the head off or round out the screw socket hole

Pointless is Loctited,



--



R_O_B_B_O
Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

They'll almost certainly be loctited but not with a high strength
grade so you can either persevere with a hex socket and probably
succeed (1) or give them a quick burst of localised heat to crack the
loctite but also possible deform something else.

(1) If anything will **** up it'll either be the hex bit or the head
of the screw. If that happens then post here and we'll give you the
next step

 

<Gazes into crystal ball>

Woooo.... angle grinder.... wooo......

 

OK, so heat seems the way forward... Hot air gun or blowtorch?...

And why dont they make thes bolts out of something stronger than cheese with
a larger head?!

 

All down to cost / profits

cheesy soft means cheap to produce and expensive to replace when you ****
them up and need the services of there dealership

 

Head of the screw.

DAMHIK,IJK,OK?

I'm going to throw out that bloody breaker bar. Every fucking time I use
the damn thing, it seems like.

Still, at least I didn't snap a hex bit this time.

 

<Gazes into crystal ball>

Woooo.... angle grinder.... wooo......[/QUOTE]

I prefer welding the head of a bigger screw onto the rounded one so I
can use a bigger allen key. The heat from the welding also goes
straight down the length of the bolt and fucks up the loctite. All in
all it's a win-win situation.

This only works if the wheel is cast into at least 3 tonne of concrete
and balanced by a qualified engineer but I've seen it done to a Norton
at speeds you'd never believe possible

 

In an ideal world you'd use an oxy-acetylene set to get the heat
straight into the bolt where it's wanted but in the absence of one of
those use the blow torch.

You'll know when the loctite's fucked because you'll see smoke
suddenly appear around the bolt you're heating.

So you've got money left for petrol.

 

And the wheel needs to be bolted down to the workshop floor.