GPX250 hard to start when warm

Discussion in 'Australian Motorcycles' started by gavin, Oct 20, 2004.

  1. gavin

    gavin Guest

    Stopped for some petrol today for the first time and found I couldn't start

    When I did get it started and home I tried stopping and starting again and
    it took rather a long time.

    Cold it starts straight up.

    What is this likely to be?
    Also once warm the bike idles at 2000rpm. Is this normal?

    gavin, Oct 20, 2004
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  2. gavin

    Smee Guest

    Is your choke left on?
    Also check and see if you haven't got the fuel knob on prime.
    sometimes it's the simplest things.
    Smee, Oct 20, 2004
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  3. gavin

    gavin Guest

    Choke is off.
    prime? I need a manual for this thing.
    gavin, Oct 20, 2004
  4. What year model GPX?

    Turn the idle adjust down. It should idle at around 1200rpm (from memory -
    have to check the book)

    Sounds like you may have a (common) fueling problem.

    Turn down the idle and see how you go.
    James Mayfield, Oct 20, 2004
  5. gavin

    BT Humble Guest

    There's a knob underneath the carbies on the left side of the bike
    that allows you to set the idle speed. 1500rpm when warm is more

    As for the hot starting issue, you need to adjust your valve tappets
    (or get it done). When the clearances close up too much the valves
    stay open just a teeny bit when the bike is hot, making it inclined to
    stall and not want to start again. I learned that valuable (and
    expensive!) lesson was at Wintersun, when Dad's CT90 exhibited exactly
    that kind of behaviour.

    You can get a basic "User's Manual" (as opposed to the Service Manual)
    for about $15 from a Kawasaki dealer.

    BT Humble, Oct 20, 2004
  6. gavin

    Dale Porter Guest

    Don't worry, the fuel tap doesn't have a "prime" setting. Just an Off, Main and Reserve.
    Dale Porter, Oct 21, 2004
  7. gavin

    Smee Guest

    Paging Mike-S
    Paging Mike-S
    Smee, Oct 21, 2004
  8. gavin

    gavin Guest

    Hopefully it isn't too difficult. Is it similar to the procedure on my OHV
    peuget 504. Once I get the manual I'll do it.

    gavin, Oct 21, 2004
  9. gavin

    BT Humble Guest

    Not difficult, just fiddly. I did the clearances on mine while it was
    raining on Sunday, and the procedure is:

    1. Remove seat;
    2. Remove side covers;
    3. Remove bellypan fairing;
    4. Remove mirrors;
    5. Unplug indicators and remove upper fairing;
    6. Remove fuel tank;
    7. Unplug spark plug leads;
    8. Unbolt the right (throttle side) ignition coil bracket & move out
    of the way;
    9. Undo the 4 bolts holding the rocker cover on;
    10. Remove the rocker cover out the RHS of the frame[1];
    11. Unscrew the large plastic cap on the LHS of the motor[2];
    12. Use a 14mm socket on the bolt you just oncovered to rotate the
    crankshaft clockwise;
    13. Trun the crank around until the cam lobes are pointing upwards on
    the pair of valves you are about to adjust;
    14. Use a 9mm socket[3] to undo the locknuts and a very small blade
    screwdriver to adjust the valve clearances to 0.13mm for exhaust
    valves and 0.10mm for inlets;

    While you have the top off the motor, undo the 3 bolts holding the cap
    on the top of the camchain. If there's any looseness in the camchain
    then you should get it replaced soonishly.

    Reassemble in the reverse order of disasembly and you're done!

    I also replaced the leaky right fork seal with a used one from a
    bent-up set of forks that I have, because it was Sunday and I
    therefore couldn't go and buy new ones. We'll see how it stands up.


    [1] It takes a bit of fiddling and swearing, but it can be done. This
    way you don't have to drain the coolant.
    [2] Use a bit of steel about 3mm thick and 20mm wide as a screwdriver,
    or you WILL chew up the slot.
    [3] I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and a 1" extension, it seems to fit in
    there best. Kawasaki will sell you a "special tool" that lets you
    hold the adjuster whiel you tighten the locknut, but I doubt it'd save
    much time.
    BT Humble, Oct 25, 2004
  10. In on 25 Oct 2004 15:44:35 -0700
    Snip 14 steps and 11 re-assembly ones

    Tappets on a Guzzi:

    1) remove 8 bolts holding the rocker cover on
    2) repeat for other side
    3) remove 4 bolts holding alternator cover on
    4) remove spark plugs
    5) put 6mm allen key in alternator rotor, rotate motor till TDC on
    compression stroke on one side, check you have it via the timing marks
    through the flyhweel inspection hole if you feel like it. (if you do, and
    you still have the rubber bung that covers the hole, there's another step.
    The things appear to evaporate)
    6) check inlet and exhaust on that side, .22mm more or less, adjust
    using pliers and spanner, or a special tool you made out of a bit of
    spare ally strip and spanner.
    7) rotate motor till TDC compression the other side and do it.
    8) replace covers, do up all those bloody bolts.
    9) have a beer. You'll feel like it after 20 bolts.

    at some point, eyeball pushrods to see if the buggers are collapsing and
    thus causing that really horrendous clearance that you thought was you
    not tightening the locknut properly last time....

    - now on a not quite so rattly old roundfin.
    Zebee Johnstone, Oct 26, 2004
  11. gavin

    Stoneshop Guest

    fidget two nuts from between the fins (unless you have a modified rocker cover,
    in which case it's two allen bolts), and one center bolt.
    Two bolts, unless you've drilled a hole in the cover just opposite the generator
    bolt, in which case it's merely a matter of popping the plug out of that hole.
    I find that putting them in the parts drawer instead of the timing hole improves
    their longevity considerably, and does not degrade the engine's performance in
    any way.
    ..15 inlet, .20 outlet, and two 10mm spanners (or one 10mm spanner and a 4mm allen
    key if you have adjusters like mine).
    Two bolts and four fiddly nuts entitle me to half a beer at least.

    // Rik Steenwinkel '85 R80ST Skippy bike
    // Enschede, Netherlands '91 R100GS/PD The Great Unwashed
    // N 52.2158 E 6.88589 '90 K75C Kommutabike
    // "Far away is only far away '81 MZ TS250/1+LSW Badkuip
    // if you don't go there" '79 Honda XL250S TBD
    Stoneshop, Oct 26, 2004
  12. gavin

    BT Humble Guest

    That's one of the few things that I miss about riding a CX500 - even
    less bolts than a Guzzi! ;-)

    I rode The Jackal in this morning, and he's running a little hot.
    I've already replaced the radiator cap, so I'll try a new thermostat

    BT Humble, Oct 26, 2004
  13. In on 26 Oct 2004 14:59:09 -0700
    Mate, everything has fewer bolts than a Guzzi.

    - who would say "including the Sydney Harbour Bridge" but as that
    famously only has 2 bolts...
    Zebee Johnstone, Oct 26, 2004
  14. gavin

    Johnnie5 Guest

    you didnt ride the Jackal for a while did you ??

    its getting hot for you for being away for so long ;)
    Johnnie5, Oct 27, 2004
  15. gavin

    BT Humble Guest

    You're weird!

    "We'll be back - Oddball."
    BT Humble, Oct 27, 2004
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