Headlight aim

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Martin Watts, Aug 23, 2003.

  1. Martin Watts

    Martin Watts Guest

    Put a screen on the bike today which meant fitting some brackets to the
    headlight mounting point. Headlight aim is way out (scary when I went to
    main beam and everything went dark ... cos I was no longer lighting up the
    road but scanning the skies for German bombers).

    Anyway being the eminently resourceful and intelligent chap I am I thought
    'I'll Google and find out how to set the headlight properly'. Can't find
    piss all apart from the Vehicle Inspection Agency site which only tells me
    that if the aim is out the bike fails the MOT (oh! really?) and some site
    about MOT which implies I need about twenty grands worth of the right test
    equipment and has some diagrams on which will take me months to decipher
    (that's after finding the magnifiying glass so I can
    read the buggers).

    All I want to do is see where I'm going, stop oncoming cages veering of the
    road and not disturb plod. How do I set the headlight aim correctly?
    Martin -Yamaha
    XVS650A (Im a Norfolk boy ... nearest thing I could afford to a tractor)

    Norfolk n' good


    Norfolk n' good

    Martin Watts, Aug 23, 2003
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  2. Martin Watts

    Martin Watts Guest

    in message
    Cheers for that. I knew I had seen something by a UKRM'er before but
    couldn't find it. Right' I'm of to the garage noW.

    Martin -Yamaha
    XVS650A (Im a Norfolk boy ... nearest thing I could afford to a tractor)

    Norfolk n' good

    Martin Watts, Aug 23, 2003
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  3. Martin Watts

    Pip Guest

    TBH, I reckon the only way to do it is to go out to a nice dark road
    with the appropriate tools (and a torch) and set it so that you can
    see with it.

    A good rule of thumb is to find yourself a level bit of concrete
    facing a wall, or a garage door perhaps. Set the bike perpendicular
    to the wall and measure from the headlight centre to the ground.
    Chalk a horizontal line on the wall (or door) at this height and set
    dipped beam so that the horizontal cutoff line runs parallel to and
    just below the line. I'd still tweak it on the road, though.

    As long as you don't get flashed too often - and can see where you're
    going - is about right.
    Pip, Aug 23, 2003
  4. Martin Watts

    Nigel Eaton Guest

    Using the patented Mavis Bacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Martin Watts
    <> typed

    (Of adjusting headlamp aim)
    Find out what Nidge does. That's exactly wrong, so do the opposite.


    ZZR1100 and Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner" (No , I'm
    not sure how that happened either).
    Nigel Eaton, Aug 23, 2003
  5. Martin Watts

    Spida Guest

    Well bike headlights are really only appropriate for mood lighting
    anyway so just set it up for a gentle wash with maybe a pearlescent
    bulb and you'll be fine.
    Spida, Aug 23, 2003
  6. Martin Watts

    Sean Guest

    Below is the result of a google search on the ukrm group. There is more to
    the internet than that bloody Johnny come lately www stuff.

    Originally posted by Alan Gower of this parish.

    <begin quoting>

    Position the bike in a straight line at a right angle to a wall. The
    bike must be off its stand and the rider seated on the bike. Measure the
    height from the ground to the centre of the headlight. Mark a horizontal
    line on the wall with this height. Position the bike 3.8 metres from the
    wall (measure from the front of the headlight to the wall). Draw a
    vertical line up the wall central to the centre line of the bike.
    Switched to dipped beam and check that the pattern falls slightly lower
    than the horizontal line and to the left of the vertical on the wall

    <end quoting>
    Sean, Aug 24, 2003
  7. Martin Watts

    Spida Guest

    I think a blow lamp and some infra red goggles might do the trick.

    Seriously though, I took the gixxer out at twilight the other day and
    found that I was looking at least 20% further ahead than the cutoff
    point of the (dipped) headlight when cornering. And I was going much
    slower than I would normally go on that particular stretch of road.
    And the lights are set as high as I dare. Main beam is fine for 90+mph
    but cornering on dipped is a test of faith.
    Spida, Aug 24, 2003
  8. Martin Watts

    sweller Guest

    As well as Alan's text version there is also a diagram from my ever handy
    MZ factory manual.

    "..The vehicle is placed according to the scheme, loaded with the driver.
    The suspension units are set to 'soft'.
    The light/dark boundary must not lie above the 'Z'-line, the angular
    deflection of the asymmetric passing beam starts in the centre between
    the lines 'V' and 'W'.

    For check-test, the suspension units are set to hard and the motorcycle
    additionally loaded with a pillion rider.
    The 'Z'-line complies with the road illumination of 25m for the passing
    beam as stipulated by the lighting regulations of this country [GDR].."


    sweller, Aug 24, 2003
  9. Martin Watts


    May 7, 2012
    Likes Received:
    do what they do in thailand

    here in thailand they wear a head lamp on there head, you know the ones for caving, or take the bulb out so the police cant see you, heeeee, it gets scary driving at night when ppl drive on the wrong side with no lights, no helmet and flip-flops, in 7 yrs ive been first on the scene giving first aid 5 times, saved 2 lives and lost 1, 18yo when the nurses at the hospital just pulled metal fragments out of his chest,but i have better medical qualifications than they do, i have my 5yr first aid from uk.
    munz, Jun 12, 2012
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