Help needed on wiring Heated handlebar grips

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Mo Childs, Jan 1, 2005.

  1. Mo Childs

    Mo Childs Guest

    I finally bought a pair and have them on and working. But the electrical
    wiring is less than the perfect solution. I used the default of connecting
    them directly to the battery but this means that I will almost certainly be
    attempting to bump start the bike in the near future. Can anyone help me
    with clear directions on how to connect them to the switched side of the
    ignition? On an SV650 'natch
     
    Mo Childs, Jan 1, 2005
    #1
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  2. Mo Childs

    wessie Guest

    Mo Childs emerged from their own little world to say
    You need to connect them to the battery via a relay - your ignition switch
    will not take the current.

    You can buy relays from Maplins/Halfords/RS components

    Have a look at
    http://www.socweb.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19904&get=last
     
    wessie, Jan 1, 2005
    #2
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  3. Mo Childs

    Lozzo Guest

    Mo Childs says...
    Wire them into the horn circuit. It's the least used and most easily got
    to of all of them.
     
    Lozzo, Jan 1, 2005
    #3
  4. Mo Childs

    Robbo Guest

    Looking at http://www.svrider.com/tips/gripheaters.htm I managed to filch a
    section off the page.....

    The SVX has a spare connector in the headlight bucket with switched power
    and ground, presumably to run the running light over the headlights on the
    SVS model. The joy of this power source is that it only comes on with the
    key, meaning that the grips can't drain the battery if accidentally left
    onyou could use the cable coloured
    HTH


    --


    --
    Robbo

    Trophy 1200 1998
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    "Fairly Quick" status. Silver level
    BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
    B.O.S.M 2003, 2004
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    PM#7
    ..
     
    Robbo, Jan 1, 2005
    #4
  5. Mo Childs

    Monkey Guest

    I wired it into the fan circuit on SO's bike, which was pretty easy.
    Whatever you use, make sure it's a supply that switches off with the
    ignition.
     
    Monkey, Jan 1, 2005
    #5
  6. Mo Childs

    Mark Olson Guest

    As another poster said, I'm pretty sure (CBA[1] to dig out the manual ATM)
    the SV650S has a +12V aux supply connector hanging loose in the fairing
    (or it might be the EX250). In any case, the horn supply is convenient
    and is switched by the ignition switch. The grip heaters I've got are
    only 22W so they don't really draw a significant amount of current, less
    than 2A, which should be OK as the horn circuit is fused for 10A, IIRC.

    [1] actually I can't find[2] the damned thing.
    [2] I know there is a JPG of the SV650 electrical system online somewhere,
    check out http://www.sv650.org.
     
    Mark Olson, Jan 1, 2005
    #6
  7. Mo Childs

    Mark Olson Guest

    http://www.svrider.com/tips/svs-wiring.htm has links to JPG and PDF
    versions of the 2002 USA/Canada SV650S wiring diagram.
     
    Mark Olson, Jan 1, 2005
    #7
  8. Mo Childs

    Mo Childs Guest

    Thanks for all of your helpful the suggestions, it is just the positive side
    that needs to be wired in to the Horn circuit (or whatever I find easiest of
    the other ideas) I can leave the neutral directly attached to the battery to
    avoid more wiring work?
     
    Mo Childs, Jan 2, 2005
    #8
  9. Use the feed to the front brake light switch.
    Thats what Honda use for their genuine accessory hot grips.
    Suzuki may have been a bit Pikey, as is their wont, and used a lower
    rated cable and fuse than Honda do, but have a look, as it saves all
    that extra wiring.

    --
    ColonelTupperware,
    spouting bollocks on Usenet since 1997
    Usenet FAQ at
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    UPCE FAQ at http://upce.org.uk/ UKRM FAQ at http://www.ukrm.net/faq/
     
    Colonel Tupperware, Jan 2, 2005
    #9
  10. Mo Childs

    Mark Olson Guest

    The upper radiator support bolt on the LHS is a good point to attach an
    earthing lug with a star washer. No sense in running a lead all the
    way back to the battery, as the (-) side of the battery is connected
    to the frame of the bike, and the frame is a pretty good conductor.
    Make the earth lug |star washer|frame connection under, not over, the
    radiator mounting lug for best results.

    Whatever method you use to tap into the horn (+) feed, don't use a
    Scotchlock connector (!) and make sure your connection is weatherproof.
    In order to avoid cutting into the insulation of the original horn wiring,
    I suggest you make up an inline connector that plugs into the female side
    of the connector to split off the (+) feed to the grips and the horn,
    and passes the switched ground from the horn switch to the horn.

    [Must use fixed-width font to view this]

    Original wiring Horn conn. Splice
    ----------< to heated grip switch
    (+)--------------------<-------<
    ----------< to horn
    (from horn switch) ----<------------------< to horn
    ............................................................
    (earth lug on frame)----------------------< to heated grip return
     
    Mark Olson, Jan 2, 2005
    #10
  11. Mo Childs

    Mo Childs Guest

    Whatever method you use to tap into the horn (+) feed, don't use a
    Thanks again, what _should_ I use (are the Scotchlock connectors like the
    white plastic ones that clip together that it came with?)
    Where might I get the makings for connectors from? I'm not much of a DIY man
    and don't have any to hand.
     
    Mo Childs, Jan 2, 2005
    #11
  12. Mo Childs

    Mo Childs Guest

    Use the feed to the front brake light switch.

    Thanks, I'll see if that looks easier than the other suggetsions, Suzuki do
    make their own heated grips and they must have thought about wiring them in
    with minimum effort.
     
    Mo Childs, Jan 2, 2005
    #12
  13. Mo Childs

    Mark Olson Guest

    These are Scotchlok (sorry I misspelled them originally):

    http://www.george-michael.org.uk/acatalog/Cable_Connectors.html

    Again, don't use them.
    You'll have to go to Maplins or perhaps Halfords or any place that sells
    standard crimp terminals. If you do use the horn connector to grab the
    +12V feed, you can tap into it with a standard male spade lug and feed
    back to the horn itself with a standard female spade. Where you do the
    Y-connection that can be done with a normal crimp butt splice.

    Typically you can buy a kit consisting of a crimping tool (looks like a
    sort of pliers with holes for stripping wires and different gaps in the
    jaws for crimping different sized splices and terminals), and a sampling
    of various types and sizes of crimp connectors. Said kit should be
    quite cheap, 5 quid or so.
     
    Mark Olson, Jan 2, 2005
    #13
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