Help with fork disassembly?

Discussion in 'Bay Area Bikers' started by wrays, Jul 6, 2005.

  1. wrays

    wrays Guest

    Hello all,

    I'm trying to bring a 1986 VF500F Interceptor back to life, should be a
    fun project.

    Currently I'm trying to put in a new fork seal ... fork is off the
    bike, springs & oil out, trying to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the
    fork, and the dampner rod inside is turning as I turn the bolt. The
    Clymer manual recommends putting a wood dowel in to stop the dampner
    rod from turning and using a air tool to remove the bolt.

    I don't have air tools ... I could certain go buy a wood dowel but I
    have visions of little wood bits breaking off inside the fork ... any
    ideas/suggestions?

    I don't really have a shop that I'm buddies with (so no chance of a
    free stop in, take the bolt out for me kind of visit) ... so last
    resort I guess I'd go somewhere and pay the min. shop fee ... thought
    I'd check here first for any help/ideas/suggestions. (And yes I'm
    obviously trying to do this on the cheap ... at this point I've got
    17hrs of my time on this project (about 1hr on the fork job) and I
    don't really want to spend ~$40 to get a bolt taken out!)

    I'm in Mt. View and work in San Mateo by the way.

    Thanks!
    David
     
    wrays, Jul 6, 2005
    #1
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  2. wrays

    RA Guest

    I've removed that bolt several times on my Hondas, Suzukis and Kawasakis.
    The way I do it is to leave the fork assembled, grab the fork in a vice
    (with the fork wrapped in a sheet of rubber to protect it) then use a
    hammer-driven impact wrench on the bolt with a quick, sharp rap to break the
    bolt loose. Same technique putting the bolt back in after clean-up and
    reassembly - no problems so far (don't forget a new bolt gasket and
    appropriate Loc-Tite if the manual calls for it). Another thing to watch out
    for - If there is one, check to make sure you've removed the "C" clamp (or
    other retainer) that sits just atop the oil seal, and make sure that when
    you put the new seal in you seat it sufficiently for that same retainer to
    fit properly back into its groove.

    RA
     
    RA, Jul 6, 2005
    #2
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  3. Oh, you don't really NEED to take that bolt out just to put fork seals
    into the slider if you don't want to replace the piston ring on the
    damper rod. That's the only wear part in there unless there's a simple
    check valve on the rod too...

    Remove the dust seal and the seal retaining clip.

    Go down to the 99 Cents Only store and buy yourself a quart of
    30-weight oil for a buck.

    Don't bother to put the spring back in. Fill the fork leg all the way
    up with the 30-weight oil. Put the fork cap back in.

    Wrap the top of the slider with an old rag or towel, it's gonna get
    messy.

    Put a piece of carpet down in a corner somewhere the bottom end of the
    slider won't move. This corner should have a place about 30 inches
    above it where you can wedge a piece of 2 X 4 about 6 feet long. Look
    around, use your imagination, maybe the place I'm talking about is next
    to a decorative cinder block wall, f'rinstance...

    Put the bottom of the aluminum slider down against the carpet, stick
    the 2 X 4 in whatever crack it will fit in above the top of the fork
    cap.

    Put all your weight on the 2 X 4. When the fork compresses, the seal
    WILL come out.

    Invert the fork assembly over a bucket to catch the oil that wasn't
    caught in the rag...

    See? Wasn't that easy?
     
    krusty kritter, Jul 6, 2005
    #3
  4. Yes, I am serious. And don't call me "Ugh"...
     
    krusty kritter, Jul 6, 2005
    #4
  5. wrays

    Richard Guest

    The two replies you already got from RA & Bob are exactly correct.
    Any other attempt will probably end with you bunging up the bolt and putting
    yourself in bigger trouble.
    It's easier to take that bolt out when you just loosen the fork caps, but
    leave it all assembled.
    I've used a rented electric impact driver and also own one of those
    "hit-it-with-a-sledge" drivers and it could be hard to break even then! Now
    I have air tools so no real problems.
    Whenever I've taken a part into a local independent mechanic and asked them
    to help get something un-stuck, they always charge about $10.
    Good luck!
    Richard
     
    Richard, Jul 8, 2005
    #5
  6. wrays

    wrays Guest

    Thanks for all the ideas guys.

    Still no luck. I can turn the bolt but it is just spinning the dampner
    rod inside. I put the fork back together (hoping the spring pressure
    would help) and used a drill with 6mm allen bolt to try to spin the
    bolt out ... no luck. Pulled the spring out, got a wood dowel, tried
    that route, no luck. In a desperate moment I started thinking of the
    quart of oil suggestion :) but the circlip is very deep in the fork
    and my snap ring tool could not reach it (fork tube in the way).

    So I'm going to give it a few more tries this weekend and if no luck
    off to Aftershocks on Monday to part with some cash. :-(

    Thanks,
    David
     
    wrays, Jul 9, 2005
    #6
  7. wrays

    wrays Guest

    I have failed as a mechanic. :-(

    Never could get the bolt out ... took it to Aftershocks on Monday ...
    went ahead and had them change the seal too ... excellent service,
    $35.00 and did it Monday ... makes me rethink the ~2hrs I spent futzing
    with this in the garage.

    Thanks again for the ideas.
    David
     
    wrays, Jul 13, 2005
    #7
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